southpier

engine holder - upper:

thanks. I do think I owe it to myself!

these were from the first batch. all pieces are .030 styrene. to me they look bulky, but the steps making them will work. I think the middle piece will stay at .030, but the outsides need to be .020 or even .015. i'll probably putz around with them over the weekend. next week's project: spark plugs. who's got an idea how to drill a lengthwise .020 hole through a piece of .040 hex rod?

is it a worthwhile investment or superfluous piece of kit? and if so, which of the bazillion variations is most helpful to start?

from Hemmings today: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2015/01/09/rare-1955-dkw-schnellaster-tieflader-36-pickup-heads-to-auction/?refer=news

a little later vintage: http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/hudson/unspecified/1709563.html?refer=news

a good source for brackets of all configurations is Simpson- Strongtie. most of the big box stores carry them in their lumber departments.

11 part youtube build here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7Rzn_f-nCA mostly masking & painting

well amazon came through where the local harbor freight failed and my transfer punches arrived today. obviously I've spent the bench time tonight making pulleys to develop a system. I cut the biggest piece of .030 styrene which would fit into my punch and shimmed it with a scrap. this way I could center & punch 4 discs of the above sizes before moving the stock again. used the closest sized transfer punch to the hole in the die jig I have. only needed to spin it by hand to dimple .030 styrene. then followed through with the matching cutter punch. so I had a disc with a center dimple. in retrospect, I probably could do the same thing with regular jobbers drills, but I digress. used outer two of one size and another one size down as a spacer, and strung them on a piece of .020 brass rod after drilling the holes and smoothing over with some 600 grit. after a drop of zap acc and a few minutes wait time, chucked it into the dremel for truing & smoothing with a 400 grit stick and some klingspore sanding foam. also held the applicator from and with Tamiya green label against the pulley groove while it was spinning to seal it. came out okay, but the real ones need a combination of .020 pulley faces and .030 spacer to be able to wrap chartpak tape around for a belt. maybe I can get to those tomorrow.

looks like time well spent. I like knowing what's under it all even if no one else sees.

I didn't have enough interest to read this whole thread, just post #1. I came across the link I posted surfing the web from somewhere to over there.

I thought this article somewhat interesting: http://tiredoldmodelingcliches.blogspot.com/

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?48-Large-Scale-Cars http://www.largescalemodeler.com/newforum/index.php

I don't like the "R" word, but do appreciate the creativity oft times displayed. could this relic have possibly the One that started the movement? (not that silly one with the magazines glued all over!) from Hemmings: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2015/01/08/not-your-average-hot-rod-the-barbeque-stove-bolt-special-heads-to-auction/?refer=news

time is the only true commodity. in all seriousness, anyone who thinks multi-tasking, working nights & weekends, and going above + beyond, is going to get them anything more than the 'employee of the month' parking spot is going to be sadly disillusioned after 30 years on the job. take time, make time, today, to enjoy the things you like and the people you love. true happiness will follow. and don't get paint on the dining room table!

I miss crazygirl ....

superb! was the Ford bulletin available online? or personal resource? thanks

thanks; I just wasn't getting it. I really do need that second cup of coffee in the morning!

well, seems HF has just what I need for a price I can afford http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html and since it's less than 2 miles from Hobby Lobby & Michael's in the other direction, I think we're going on a Field Trip this afternoon!

not sure of your trepidation, but a quick search let's me know my punch holes are anywhere from .002" - .008" larger than fractional sized transfer punches. I don't think tolerances need be closer than that, nor I capable of creating them. so now the search begins for 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", & 3/16" transfer punches without having to buy a 28 piece set. thanks.

how do you center the pins on the pipes (rod)? jig or experienced eye? thanks

thanks for the suggestions and link to the other thread. since I'm only making (4) sizes, I might try cobbling a "template" out of styrene similar to the above. if there's minor inaccuracy in concentric alignment, I trust there'll be other blunders to distract the viewer.

want to develop a system for making pulleys from styrene stock. I have a punch set which will net .189", .157", .128", & .096". for my most used scales of 1/25 & 1/24, these will be close enough to 5", 4", 3", & 2 1/2" discs respectively. I know these are not exact but this isn't the conundrum. to wit: after the discs are punched, i'll want to stack them on a piece of .020" brass rod for aligning & mounting. Q: how can I get consistent centered holes in the discs? unfortunately, my punch is a rough steel & plexiglass unit which all but prohibits me from scribing crosshairs and cutting them concentrically. it is similar to the micro-mark unit, but has guide posts on both ends of a single row of holes. thanks for any help, jigs, or formulas.

I have to say: "yup". but that was the holy grail of garage bands everywhere in '68 ('69?)

basic optivisor w/ 2x lens. it's only on for 10-15 minutes at a stretch. I remove or flip up as often as possible to change focus.