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Cool Hand

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About Cool Hand

  • Birthday 12/18/1975

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  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1:24

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  • Full Name
    Luke

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  1. Yes mate, mentioned else where in one of the other threads. It is pricey, but worth it, when you wont have to sand. Also when using spray cans in winter, place the can in some hot tap water for 5 min before shaking and spraying. It will help the paint atomize better and get a smoother finish.
  2. There is a reason some of us are willing and like to spend the extra dollars on hobby grade primers or surfacers. No sanding required, and a perfect foundation for colour coats. And all had Tamiya TS-14 Black applied for colour coat, and none required a clear coat the following results are black straight from the can.
  3. I like my Tamiya Handy drill. Much better control with the pistol grip. Low speed and plenty of torque. Only comes with 2 collets. But I found the collets from the Pro Edge pin vise fit Not cheap, but its worth the cost and the usual Tamiya quality. .
  4. Paint work looks excellent Bob, good to see you got the Tamiya TS-14 black application dialed in. Job well done sir.
  5. Same as the some of the other guys. Paint markers. Been using these 2 from AK a lot.
  6. One of those builds just for fun and to further develop airbrush painting skills and maintain build techniques. Id say the idea's and inspiration for the style of the build, came from watching South Florida car culture and Donk car show videos on YouTube. 3D printed steering wheel, scratch built stick shifter and Hobby Design resin seats which I removed the head rest. Wanted something different for the interior colour, so decided to use 50:50 mix of Ammo by Mig Medium Rust and Dark Rust to achieve a redish brown (chestnut??). Floor colour is Ammo by Mig Chipping. As per usual the colour shift was applied over a gloss black base. Removed the moulded in lower grill to open the lower opening of the front bumper. I 3D printed the wheels, the files were sourced from Dirty Customs. I up scaled them to 19's and used Aoshima cambered tyres for the ultra low profile B pillar window frame was removed to achieve more of a hard top coupe look. Shaved the door handle and filled the pocket. Also filled the quarter panel vents. Filled in the fuel cap door.
  7. Next one back to the bench. Started it 2 year ago. Gathered up all the parts. Time to do work and get it completed. Question is do I go with my trademark colours black with red interior combo or black interior as it doesnt have the wire wheels 🤔
  8. 2010 Camaro complete. Now under glass. Sorry Brian no polishing how to, just wanted to get stuck into it and get it done, didnt feel like stopping to take pictures.
  9. Thanks Ken, I will show the bottle of the colour when it goes under glass.
  10. Thanks @michelle hope to see you build a Valiant Charger street machine one day.
  11. Thanks Andrew and David. Look forward to seeing a wip of your build David. That 1:1 is tidy, good stance and wheels, that bright red'ish orange looks killer. Great inspiration.
  12. Thats not entirely true. Just need to know where to look. You can still get them, a quick search on ebay and you will find many sellers in Australia.
  13. Wet sanding done, wont bore you with that process. Tricky to get photos of this one. Camera trips out taking pictures of this particular paint job, it wants to over expose which makes the pearl pigments look like a heavy flake I used the God Hand 10mm and 2mm sanding sponges 4000-10000. 10mm is used for overall blocking of the open flat surfaces and 2mm for corners and crevices. Also got the interior components prep'd and 1500 Gray Surfacer applied. If your are observant you will notice I removed the head rest from the Hoddy Design resin seats.
  14. Thank you very much to all who commented. Thanks Stu, with a bit of effort they build up great out of the box. Hope my build can motivate and inspire you to do work on your HQ, been waiting to see an update. I built 7 of them 😄 No idea what happened to 1:1 car after he sold it. Havent spoke or seen the guy who owned for years. But I think it might have ended up in Adelaide. 🤷‍♂️ Thanks Doug, the plastic kit is based of a die cast version, DDA shoot plastic through the diecast mould. Always try my best to take good pictures of my models as it helps to showcase the details of the build to viewers. I like to present it in a way the looks like something you would see in the magazines
  15. Next on the bench, bringing this one back for completion. Need to get the interior prepared and ready for paint, after thats done the Body needs a full wet sand and polish.
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