Aaronw

So I've run across an odd one. Apparently the Vancouver, WA fire department ran several Ford C super pumpers powered by a "350 horse power Detroit". The only Detroit Diesel I know of being offered in the C cab is the 8.2 liter "fuel pincher" from the 1980s and there is no way you are getting 350 hp from that for long (170-230 hp was standard for the 8.2). A CAT 3208 wouldn't provide 350hp either even assuming the author got the Detroit part wrong. All I can think of is a custom job installing an 8V71, but I'm not sure how they would have fit that in there. That is a lot more engine than anything offered in the C, even bigger than the Ford Superduty big blocks. Anyone else have any ideas or know of similar high powered C cabs?

Arnd, the Cat came from a Revell snap kit. Both the Peterbilt and Kenworth kits have it. Pretty nice detail, not what you expect to see when you hear snap-tite. The tank has been my hold up, but I think I've got that figured out now... the heat and squish wasn't working for me, I guess PVC can handle 212 degree water just fine because it barely softened at all. On to plan B.

That will look really nice with a matching tractor. I'm not familiar with that trailer, with 6 axles it must be a beast of a trailer.

I don't know of a late model Dodge, but I'd look at diecast for possibilities. While it isn't a Dodge you might be interested in SSB resins Ford F350 LA County Squad. http://ssbresins.com/

I've dealt with the carpet monster and the bouncy tile corner creeper. I can't say one has a clear advantage over the other, although a nice low nap carpet definitely beats shag and has less bounce than tile. Carpet tends to hide bits, but they will be close to the LZ, tile is nice and flat making hiding seem unlikely but parts can get some serious travel from the bounce and still have a way of finding corners, table legs, under the refrigerator (I had tile in a kitchen based work table) to seek cover.

Vague, uncertain, indefinite, nonspecific, indistinct, ill-defined. Sorry not familiar with "The detailer" but sounds like it might be a prepackaged paint wash?

I expect the two kits would not match up well. I was hoping to use the AMT Louisville with the Italeri LTL to make a daycab LTL. There was probably a 3/16" gap where the hood would meet the cab. Plaskit's LS / LTS hood is very nice as is everything I have bought from him.

I've noticed there is a chrome piece in the kit that looks like a worm drive for the rear axle. I'm not sure that is what it is, but it isn't used and based on photos I've seen of the heavy duty Ts it looks the part.

I've seen several with people getting stuff 3d printed and a lot of debates for how the technology will change the hobby, but haven't noticed any specifically talking about the process itself. I'll take a look around though, if it is already being talked about that works for me. Thanks Joseph, like DIY decals, and resin casting this seems like a really neat additional skill to develop.

Based on notes I have from old brochures, yes, the 8V71 was available in some models of the Ford L series.

Lowering and an engine swap is not so bad, I thought I remembered more external changes being necessary. Thanks

For the lights I went with track lights and LED bulbs. The track lights are easy to install and you can move the lights around on the track. I've got 16 feet of track and 12 fixtures, about 1/2 spots and 1/2 flood, when I want more light I can move them all right over my desk and I have enough lighting to film a major motion picture on my bench. The LEDs are not cheap, but they are supposed to last 20+ years, they are instant on vs a couple of minutes for full brightness with CFLs. They are even lower wattage and have practically no heat. I have the equivalent of nearly 800 watts over my bench, but draw less than 100 watts. If these were all incandescent lights I would roast like a rotisserie chicken. I also bought a set of LED under cabinet lights which I put under the bench. They are great when I drop a small part on the floor.

So this definitely seems to be an up and coming technology useful to modelers. I know there are a few out there who are using this technology to prototype parts for resin casting. I've been playing with the 3d design program Sketchup, and am getting the hang of it. have managed to draw up some tires, and some misc parts. I was hoping perhaps some who have made that next step might be willing to start a discussion here to help people like me make that next step to actually getting a part printed. I am aware of Shapeways, but believe there are others out there who will take on print work from a 3d drawing. Any and all tips, pitfalls, encouragement or even well meaning discouragement welcome. A start to finish description of your experience getting a part printed would be very welcome. Thanks

I know I've seen this discussed before, but I am failing on a forum search so it must have been sometime ago. Apparently there are some issues with the AMT Dodge Little Red Express kit as it comes from the box. I picked up several of these back when they were $7 at Walmart, for general Dodge truck projects, but will probably do one as a LRE. If I can at least get the big issues I can stick a note in the box to help me out when I finally get to it. I'm sure I'm not the only one that could use the information as it is just a matter of time before Round 2 re-pops this one.

Coker tires is a pretty neat resource for model cars too. It can be a useful site to see what you might have found on a car of a particular vintage, particularly if you are trying to go factory stock on a kit that doesn't offer that option out of the box. My only complaint is I wish they gave a better run down on the approximate dates and uses for their tires, they appear to assume the buyer knows what they need. As far as the licensing I don't think you can really compare the licensing of a $500 tire with a $25 plastic model. From my understanding they don't change the cost just because it is an inexpensive product, so Coker might pay for the licensing fees with a dozen tires, where Revell might have to sell several hundred kits to do the same. Model cars also have the potential to include multiple licensing fees, one to the manufacturer (Ford, GM etc), one to the custom rim maker, aftermarket speed parts etc, maybe even two sets of tires, the stock Firestone tires and the Goodyear performance tires. It sure would be nice if the 1-1 manufacturers saw it as free advertising, but unfortunately most don't.

I like this, very clean job. Now I think I need to go get some ice cream.

Try Fireball Model Works http://www.fireballmodels.info/custom_pricing.htm The owner posts here as Chief Joseph. I've never used him for custom decals but I have quite a few sets of his aircraft decals and they are well done, I imagine his custom work would be of similar quality.

I've actually got a couple of model tanks that could be used, but I've got a couple of potential projects in mind and really want to figure out a way to fabricate my own tanks. I've got a couple of idea floating around my head based on this aluminum. Robert, possibly, but it is already pretty flexible so I don't think that is going to be much of an issue.

I don't think so, really thin styrene would be flimsy, something stout enough to hold up won't flex that well without some heat. The aluminum flashing is very bendable, but stiffer than thin styrene. I've had some good luck shaping brass and aluminum in the past, but nothing on quite so large a scale. It was $13 for 10 feet, so not much of a risk and I can always use it for doing repairs on my house. I've got a few ideas for shaping it, will have to see how it works out. No harm in asking the question, it was a fair suggestion. This is all experimentation at this point, ideas are always welcome.

Thanks, I wouldn't have thought of the etching primer. Gary your link doesn't work. I tried a couple of fixes but couldn't get anything to come up, even googled the coatings expert but got nothing.

Neat, good job on what I imagine was not a user friendly kit. I wish there were more cars of this era available in 1/24-25.

My plans on making a truck tanker from ABS are not working as planned. I saw this roof flashing at Home Depot which seems like it might be a good possibility. I'll probably build some interior support from wood or plastic. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Construction-Metals-Inc-10-in-x-10-ft-Aluminum-Valley-Flashing-RV1010A/202092846?N=5yc1vZas6d A good wash and priimer is a given, but I thought I'd see if anyone has used this stuff before and found any issues I should watch out for. It is a nice thin gauge aluminum, so I am assuming I'm not the first to notice this stuff and thought it might make a good modelling material. Thanks

There is a guy on an aircraft forum I am a member of who has mentioned having one of these. He likes it, but also admits he has low expectations for it, being just a step above using a drill as a lathe, not a serious tool for fabricating intricate parts. There are some reviews at Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Classic-Milling-Machine-Jig-saw-Driller/dp/B00CJR2OK6 For less than the cost of that 6 in 1 tool, you can get a Dremel and drill press stand. Mount a nice rotating vise and you can do some simple mill work in addition to drilling holes. http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Tool-Station/dp/B00068P48O You are going to pay a lot more for any capable mini lathe.

I agree, it seems to be a bit of an untapped market. I think a part of it may be that at least on the older GMC's it is not quite as simple as just a different grill / tailgate as with the later trucks. I know the 1950 GMC conversion included a new hood as well. There is GMC on the hood and also slightly different shape where it meets the grill. GMC also had it's own engines back then. The I-6 can be faked well enough by using the GMC color vs the Chevrolet color (green vs grey I believe), but in the 1960s GMC offered some very different engines including a neat 305 V-6. Side scripts are always an issue so delicate PE is pretty much a must to do it right. On my someday list I want to convert a '60 Chevy truck to GMC, but would so happy if I could just buy a good conversion kit to do it.

I don't. There was a resin caster I used to see from time to time on ebay who used to offer a GMC conversion for the AMT 1950 Chevy truck. If you can find one the differences between a '50 and a '54 are pretty minor. I haven't seen that conversion offered for some time. Jimmy Flintstone has 1955-57 panel and Suburban bodies that might be useful, but I've not seen any for the 47-54 body style.