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Everything posted by Aaronw
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Revell/Model King '57 Ford police cars
Aaronw replied to charlie8575's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Are any of the police parts of any particular interest to emergency vehicle modelers? Anything really nice that we can't grab from some of the other kits out there? I remember when this was first announced and sprue shots appeared it looked like the police special parts were kind of generic and uninspired, hoping maybe that changed over the production cycle. -
I've been looking into a micro lathe for the past year and am at the point I want to get one. I'm looking at Sherline and Taig, which both have a good reputation and are made in the US. The Sherline looks nicer (looks like a miniature mtal shop lathe rather than a cobbled together hobby tool) but is about 50% more expensive and other than cosmetic appeal doesn't seem to offer anything I actually need. The various Chinese built lathes do not offer any significant savings so I have no interest in them, it is Sherline or Taig at this point. I'm 99% sold on the Taig Micro Lathe, they are currently offering a starter package with the following Package #3 - Micro lathe assembled unit - Collet set with 8 collets and closer - 3 jaw self centering chuck - 0 to 1/4 inch Jacobs chuck - 6 piece tool bit set - Drilling tailstock with 3/8-24 thread - 12 x 18 mounting board - motor mount bracket - 1/2 inch pulley set (3M 500 belt) - 1/4 hp Marathon Motor (1725 RPM) wired with switch and cord. which looks like everything I'd need to get started. At the moment I'm primarily looking at making wheels, emergency beacon light bases, siren housings etc. Fairly simply things to start with. They also offer a power feed option for an additional $75 which I'm leaning towards getting, but not positive it is really something I will be needing. I'll probably make my decision this week so any last minute comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. It is a good chunk of money that will cut into the model budget for sometime, so I want to get this right. I'd also like to thank those of you that have chimed in on this subject in the past.
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How big is your work table ?
Aaronw replied to Fender's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I've become a big fan of LED lights. They are expensive but very energy efficient and create almost no heat. I have 11 LED lights over my bench, four 50w spots and 7 90w floods. They only draw about 200w total and I would cook like an easy bake oven if they were incandecents. -
Non-Trucker questions on Chevy P30 availability
Aaronw replied to Foxer's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
That is Chevrolets code. C = 2 wheel drive pickup / SUV, K= 4x4 pickup / SUV, G= van, P was used for their stepvans. 10 = 1/2 ton, 20= 3/4 ton, 30 = 1 ton, later they switched the 10, 20, 30 to 1500, 2500 and 3500. Ford and Dodge have similar coding systems for their trucks. -
Non-Trucker questions on Chevy P30 availability
Aaronw replied to Foxer's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
There is a plastic 1/25 scale Dannon Yogurt delivery truck promo you can occasionally find on ebay, but they are usually rather pricy. Last time I was looking was a few years ago and they were running between $75 and 100, and I don't recall if it was a Chevrolet. If you are willing to go with a smaller scale there are a few decent plastic or diecast toys around 1/34 scale that might work for you. I agree with Matt on the chassis, these are the same as the 3/4 ton (P20) or 1 ton (P30) trucks with a different body. The Ford is the only detailed dually out there, the Chevrolet being basically a promo. I assume this has a 350 under the hood, so you will probably want to find one of those to replace the Ford's 460. These are really just a big box, everything including the interior is usually just flat panels so scratchbuilding shouldn't be too bad except for the grill. The grill on most of these trucks are pretty basic so probably not too much of a job if you can scrounge some headlights and such from the parts bin. -
How big is your work table ?
Aaronw replied to Fender's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
When I got back into models around 2002 my "work bench" was a 3/4" laminated plywood circle about 18" in diameter that I sat on the kitchen table or my lap. I kept all my supplies in a large tool box so I could move them to whichever part of the apartment was the model room that day. In 2005 we moved into a 2 bedroom house and I got the small laundry room (pretty much a dead end hallway) as a model room. In 2007 we moved into a 3 bedroom house, and I got the upstairs hallway which had a large landing for my model table. The white circle on the table and the black and yellow tool box are my original workspace. This was shortly after moving in, it was never so neat and orderly again. Ah, yes this is more like it. Notice the spacious 8x10" working area. Last year we moved (again) and bought a house. We found a house we love, and like the town so we have no plans on moving again. I was all set to find a spot in the basement when I was surprised by my wife offering up one of the bedrooms, with one catch. I had to leave a corner for her so she could hang out while I work. Apparently she likes my company and would prefer to keep me in the house instead of disappearing into the basement. With an offer like that I set about building my dream model shop. I decided on a 16x8' work area. The bench is 3 feet deep set up in a J shape so in my primary working area I essentially have 3 benches just by turning the chair. The remainder of the bench is for other work, paint booth, casting area etc. This has also proved useful when others need a work space where they are safe from disturbing my projects. There is an attached room we are currently using for storage and the model stash (my wife refers to that room as the hobby shop). and the tool girl lounge which made this possible. -
I actually used the same article when building my booth and it worked out great. Something to ponder, he never takes cubic feet into account. Using his formula a booth 2 ft x 3 ft x 3 ft (18 cu ft) and a booth 2 ft x 3 ft x 10 ft (60 cu ft) will both recommend a blower of 300 cfm (down draft) or 600 cfm (cross draft). Try an experiment with your own booth, get a large piece of cardboard and cut a hole 1/2 the size of your current booths opening. You will feel a dramatic increase in the velocity of the air entering the booth, it may even suck the paint right into the filter making it hard to actually paint the model. Your exagerated example would be ineffective no doubt, but the actual opening does play an important part. I'm not an aerodynamic engineer so I can't tell you where that point is.
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Everybody gets hung up on looking for ignition sources. The #1 priority should be on avoiding a flammable atmosphere in the first place (keeping the vapors to lean to burn). This is really why most people get away with a homemade booth using a bathroom fan or other "inappropriate" vent fan. They have adequate ventilation so never reach the lower explosive limits of the paint vapors. The only paint booth fire that I have seen posted with details, involved an individual using a shop vac for the blower. The cannister makes for an excellent bomb by collecting the vapors until they reach a level that will support combustion. I advocate using an appropriate fan, but as long as the fan selected provides adequate ventilation there is minimal danger from using the wrong fan. Obviously the right fan and adequate ventilation is a better choice.
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You've miss read what the sq ft relates to. It is not the size of the working area, it is the size of the opening. It may seem a trivial difference but has to do with the velocity of the air not simply movement, both are moving 100 cfm but the larger opening allows for slower moving air and areas of little movement. If a closed 2x3 ft working area only has a 14" x 20" opening (fairly standard size filter) then you are looking at 1.9 sq ft, not 6. 1.9 x 50 (downdraft) would put the 100 cfm fan at the appropriate size. I would be concerned that the 3" ducting is inadequate though and could be restricting the blower from seeing its full potential. I picked up a section of 6" metal flex duct at Home Depot, it is cheap, easy to use and provides for very little friction loss. Here is an easy to use online airflow calculator. If you use it you will see that the 3" duct has 4x the restriction of a 4" duct and 30x the restriction of a 6" duct. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/duct-friction-pressure-loss-d_444.html
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1/25 Revell '90 Mustang LX 5.0 2'n1 Special Edition
Aaronw replied to Casey's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Same problem with most police car kits. Seems like a simple enough solution of just providing seperate trim, so you either snap it in for stock, or fill two small holes for a police car. Could even change that to drill out two small holes and snap in the trim for stock and do nothing extra for the police car. This really make sense fo a car like the Crown Vic which I'm sure the vast majority are built as police cars. -
My biggest concern is the color range. Polly Scale and Floquil Railroad colors have a much broader range of specialty colors than Model Master Acryl. If a simple rebranding and consolidation I use all three so that won't cause me too much pain. If they drop those additional colors it will force people to look elsewhere (probably Vallejo for me) so really not a very good business decision.
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1/25 Revell '90 Mustang LX 5.0 2'n1 Special Edition
Aaronw replied to Casey's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Terrible job, that looks nothing like a Dodge Diplomat -
Yes they did, guess I better get the 2 or 3 I'm missing while I still can.
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What's the deal with Johan
Aaronw replied to Kaleb's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The highlighed part is what is so special about them. Cadillac models are few and far between other than Johan who did quite a few. -
How about older trucks, anything available?
Aaronw replied to wagonmaster's topic in Truck Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
RMR has quite a few older truck cabs. http://rmrresin.webs.com/nf125.htm -
Us forestry service f150.
Aaronw replied to DCLVXI's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
I think the model kit is a 1997, but the Ford F150 didn't change noticably in body style until just a few years ago. The striping started in California and took quite a few years to get to the other states, so you wouldn't be grossly off with the larger decals or leaving off the stripes. My boss in 1998 had almost exactly the truck you are building, except he only had grill lights. Call it a 2002 and you are good. Where did the wheels come from? They look good on that truck. -
Us forestry service f150.
Aaronw replied to DCLVXI's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Depending on how detailed you want to get, those Jbot decals are for a 2001 or later USFS truck. After the introduction of the white paint scheme in 2000-2001 the seal was enlarged from a 7-8" seal to the larger 12-14" seal. Here is a 1997 Model 62 with the older markings http://modelfireapparatus.com/apparatus/USFS/Engines5/USFSU5.JPG and a 2001 Model 62 with the current style markings http://modelfireapparatus.com/apparatus/USFS/Engines5/USFSV5.JPG It will take a few days for me to locate them, but I can help you with decals for the basic markings. You are on your own for striping. -
Thanks, that is the kit I expected it to be. One more of those kits I had in my hands many times but put it back only to find it gone one day and ebay prices climbing. Will definately get one or two this time.
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Help Identifying?
Aaronw replied to hooknladderno1's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I don't know Macks that well, but I have a book of Mack fire apparatus and I'm thinking it is an L series which was built from 1940-54, or potentially the E series built from 1937-50. I'm leaning towards L as it looks like the E series has more of a sloped back grill. I'm pretty confident that it is not a B series as the fenders are more swoopy than on the B. AITM makes a very nice L series fire cab. It does have a closed cab though so would take a fair bit of work to build it as an open cab like that. http://www.aitruckmodels.com/pages/cfk3macklfirecab.html -
Us forestry service f150.
Aaronw replied to DCLVXI's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Its coming along. I agree the light bar looks a bit small. For the year of that truck you are pretty safe going with either a strobe or rotating light style light bar. The Federal Streethawk was a very popular lightbar with the USFS (I think they were fairly cheap), but you really could find just about anything on a USFS truck in the 90s, Aerodynics and Jetsonics were common as well. They often would recycle lightbars from one truck to the next so you could find a somewhat antiquated light on a new truck. Until the mid 1950s the USFS mostly used dark green. The USFS adopted the light green in 1956 or 57, but it included a grey top. In the mid 70s (probably 1975 or 76) they switched to the current all green. -
Us forestry service f150.
Aaronw replied to DCLVXI's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
The best off the shelf match I've found for the current USFS green is Krylon Jade or Rustolium Seafoam. Rustolium Sage Green works well for an older faded truck. There is some variation is shade between batches and manufacturer, although quality control has greatly improved on modern vehicles. Over my career I have seen vehicles with a much stronger yellow or blue tint to the green. -
A truck built in 1949 could easily still have been hauling cargo for a local independant operator in the early 70s which is about the period most of the trailer kits represent. I'm not positive but I think the Lindberg flatbed, tanker and van trailers are a bit older style than the AMT and Ertl trailers. If you want it to accurately represent a semi in the 1950s you are going to have to do some scratchbuilding.
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With this and Heller seemingly off life support I see several new French vehicles being added to my stash (and hopefully getting built). Now if someone would just do a Citroen DS. I can't beleive it has never been done in 1/24-1/25 being one of the best looking European cars ever built (at least in my opinion).
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Can anybody comment more about the ’53 Chevy Sedan Delivery? Assuming this is a re-issue of the 53/54, so just a gasser, no stock parts?