Aaronw

Actually it is a C series truck, the first C series was offered by Ford 1953-56. The C series most know was introduced in 1957 and ran until 1990. Unfortunately I expect the box art was a goof. My first hope is Round 2 will respond to this mistake by tooling up the truck on the box to avoid admitting such a terrible faux pax. Failing that I hope they lock the artist in a small room full of televisions playing Barney the dinosaur episodes, as that is the only punishment remotely fitting the crime.

A little later than that, the side marker lights on the door came in 1968, but the truck is actually a 1974 or later. In the 1970s (1973 or 74 I think) the side marker lights on the door moved from above the trim line, to below the trim line. The Boxart shows a 1968-73 but the actual model is the later version with the marker lights lower on the door (1974-85). In 1985 or 86 until the truck ended production the F O R D on the front of the cab was replaced with a blue Ford oval in the center of the cab (between the headlights where the kind of trapizoidal badge is on the kit). The engine in the kit was dropped as an option after 1982, so most likely the kit is a 1974-1982 C-800.

Sprue is the word you want (I think), most of us call the frame all the parts are attached to a sprue. As far as the C600 on the box and C800 on the cab, this kit has been issued as a C600, C800 and C900 at different times. It is correctly a C800 or C900 as the engine included in the kit was only available in those heavier duty trucks. A C600 would have had a 300 cubic inch inline 6 cylinder engine, a 330 or 361 cubic inch small block Ford V-8.

I really hope you are wrong, I'd love to get a kit of the older 53-56 C series. If this is a box art mistake it is a huge one like putting a 1960 Corvette on the box for a 1970 Corvette kit.

Bump Thought I'd go ahead and try to match the engines with the kits in this thread instead of starting a new one, I'm sure I've missed a few. Not dealing with the European trucks but I'll include them if they are provided. I'll update the first post when there is enough to make it worthwhile. AMT/Ertl American LaFrance (Pumper, Ladder, Aerochief) - DD8v71 Autocar Dump Autocar A64 Chevrolet Titan / GMC Astro (DD 8V71?) Chevrolet Bison / GMC General Diamond Reo Ford C-600 - Ford SD 401/477/534 Ford Louisville - Caterpiller 3208 Kenworth K-123 IH Paystar IH4300 IH2575 IH2476 Peterbilt 359 White Freightliner SD / DD (assume the same in both kits) White Western Star White Roadboss Italeri Ford Aeromax Ford LTL9000 Freightliner Heavy Dump Freightliner FLC Peterbilt 377 Peterbilt 378 Western Star Constellation LA Fire Department recovery truck Revell Kenworth W900 (snap) Peterbilt 359 (snap) Revell of Germany Kenworth W-900 Wrecker Kenworth Dump truck Kenworth Australia Peterbilt 353 Peterbilt "Bill Signs Trucking" Moebius IH Lonestar IH Prostar

I don't do a lot of the things people do with Ipads, I'm mostly interested in handy websurfing device that will also work for reading pdfs and such. I have a Droid X phone which does these things, but the screen is a bit small for any extended reading. I have been looking at a Nexus 7 they are around $200 and seems to do what I need without making me pay a high price for features I'm not really interested in. It is not a replacement for the more capable tablets like Ipads, but if you are like me and just want a basic tablet it might work for you. It has a 7" screen so about 2x the size of most smart phones. I had not thought about using it for photos at the bench, I really like that idea. http://www.google.com/nexus/#/7

I think you are making work for yourself, unless you have a newer grill. It looks to me like the older E-350 like the vantom kit does not have that lip at the rear, it continues flush. I'm guessing there was a minor change in the early 80s when they went to square headlights. Here is a '76 Ford ambulance for sale, not the biggest pictures, but the back end looks flush with the sides, no raised section. http://www.used-usa-cars.eu/browse/iowa/Us_dubuque/ford//1976-ford-ambulance-4x4-460-33xxx-miles----1800--platteville--l130290.html

That is a nice job, I haven't seen to many built as an open top. I didn't know you built red shiny things I thought you came from the black & white end of things. Some day I want to build the San Francisco Turbo Chief, their open top jet engine (Boeing gas turbine) powered ALF.

You know 2 kits for one extended van isn't too bad, the donor could easily be used for a cab and chassis to build a type 3 (box style) ambulance, uhaul truck etc. That would also provide you with the rear doors you want for the side. I have similar plans but don't even have the Vantom kit yet, so you are a couple of steps ahead of me.

Sounds to me like one of the salesmen, tried to cover up his screwup by calling the cops. I'm guessing that saleman will be joining the unemployed soon. The appropriate response would have been to have their lawyer contact the buyer about the mistake and try to work out a resonable adjustment. Even if the buyer were unwilling to budge, this is a case of a $5000 descrepancy on a $40,000 car which seems well within the dealers negotiation range and hardly worth all this trouble to the dealership, so they didn't make any money on this one, maybe even lost a bit but pretty minor. To the salesman however I'm guessing this was a wash, no profit no commision which explains the hardball tactics and false report.

I'm a fire captain for the US Forest Service, this is my 20th year as a firefighter. I've also worked for the National Park Service, and Department of Defense. This is my engine back in August. . Hey Eric we may have bumped into each other at some point.

Depending on the age of the truck you have a few choices for the engine. The 401/477/534 found in the C series could be used, but is probably not the best choice for a truck without airbrakes, as those were found in the top end (800/900) series trucks which would usually have air brakes. You are probably looking at more of a medium duty 600/700 series truck. A 361 or 390 FE V8 would be standard through the late 70s. I'm sure these engines are fairly easily found in late 60s early 70s Ford car kits, although you might have to make minor modifications for use in a truck. The late 70s through '96 models could be found with a 370, 429 or 460 385-V8 which can be found in the late 80s Ford F250 and F350 kits. In the early 80s the 401/477/534 was killed off leaving the 429 / 460 as the only option for a gas engine in a Ford medium duty truck.

Not Oshkosh specific, but body color, black or a medium dark grey would be my choice based on most trucks I've seen. Body color seems to be more common on higher end stuff where they don't mind paying a little extra to make things prettier.

Supposedly gravity helps with a downdraft so they say you only need a fan 1/2 as strong. I've never used a downdraft booth for comparison, so I can't say iof there is really a difference. I built myself a crossdraft booth mainly because it seemed simpler and closer to what I was already doing before I had a booth, so would take less adjustment. Oh and technically it is a crossdraft booth, not backdraft. In firefighting a backdraft is an explosion caused when fresh air hits a hot smoldering fire. Considering how frequently the issue of fires comes up in these posts, I find the term backdraft booth amusing as a backdraft booth would be very unpopular. Backdraft I know what you meant, it just struck me funny, hope no offense is taken by my amusement.

If the side mount fan gives you any problems, I solved the clearance problem by mounting mine on a 1" piece of pine to get it out far enough to clear the back of the booth. Mine is a cross draft but it would just be a matter of mounting yours on its side below, instead of upright on the back as I did. I've actually considered putting some legs on the back and tipping mine upright to make a downdraft, but it works just fine as is, so I've left well enough alone.

Deron, there just happens to be a spray booth build post right now in the general section that might give you some ideas. If you search in General you will probably find a lot more posts like this one. For some reason they seem to turn up in General instead of the Q&A section or tips & tutorials. The search is kind of spotty though so good luck. http://www.modelcars...showtopic=52266 The fans you posted for $26 and $27 are axial fans which puts the motor right in the air flow which is generally not considered a good idea. As far as the salvaged motor, without any specs on it I have no idea if it is appropriate for a spray booth. However if it is free, and does not appear to have any safety concerns (like it smokes when you turn it on), it can't hurt to give it a whirl to see if it draws enough air to run your booth. The nice thing with a spray booth is you will know pretty quick if it is working, because if it is, you won't get much odor, and if it isn't you are going to be sucking on paint fumes. As far as the downdraft, I think what Pat was getting at it the filter is the bottom of the booth, you don't need pegboard or anything else to work on. I couldn't figure that out when building mine so I went with a cross draft booth which seems to work fine, but requires a bigger motor since gravity isn't helping to draw the paint out. This is my booth if it is any help in designing yours, I used a 6" metal duct (not shown) to exhaust outside. This shows the plenum I made which is supposed to help spread the air flow more evenly across the booth (I read about that, I'm not smart enough to even spell plenum otherwise ). It is just a wall with lots of big holes about 3" infront of the back wall. If you just had an opening for the fan, then supposedly the airflow would be concentrated there, and the edges would have little airflow.

This is the blower I used in my booth. http://www.grainger....TDR7?Pid=search Mine is a cross draft booth a pinch larger than yours so overkill for your needs. Something like this would probably serve you well, assuming a 2x2 foot opening down draft style booth and a fairly short run to the exhaust point. http://www.grainger....FHX9?Pid=search You will probably get lots of suggestions to use a bathroom or range exhaust fan, personally I think that is a bad idea whether or not there is a real safety issue (the oh no not this again pat aludes to). Shaded pole blowers are more expensive, but they are better fans and don't get exposed to the fumes of your paint booth, so should out last your booth. Whatever you do, do not use a shop vac to vent your booth.

The preferred fan is a shaded pole blower (aka squirrel cage). This style of fan has a paddle wheel looking fan in the air stream, and the motor is outside the air flow turning the fan through a shaft drive. You can get one of these blowers relatively cheap ($50-150 depending on size). The fan is the major expense in any spray booth, so in my opinion it is better not to get cheap here. To figure out your CFM needs take the size of the opening and divide by the CFM, ideally you want to have 100 for a cross draft booth (air goes out the back) or 50 for a down draft (air goes out the floor of the booth). It is not the floor of the booth that matters, it is the opening into the booth. If you have a 2 foot x 2 foot opening (4 square feet) then you are looking for a 400 cfm fan for a cross draft or a 200 cfm fan for a down draft. You also need to factor in some extra based on your ducting, use a duct sized for the blower (don't put a 4" duct on a blower with a 6" outlet). Keep it short and straight and you don't have to worry to much about this, but using a smaller duct or having a bunch of turns will make the blower much less efficient. These are ideal cfm specs, lots of people are happy with booths that rate 3/4 or even 1/2 the ideal amount, and many of the commercial booths rate less than the ideal. Still if you are building your own, might as well do the best you can. Personally I find Grainger a good source for these fans. It is kind of a pain setting up an account, but they have a good selection, good prices and great service. I had my blower 24 hours after ordering. You also may need to buy a cord, most of these blowers do not include a power cord or on / off switch. The cord is around $8. I ran mine to an outlet with a light switch, but it is almost as easy just to unplug it when you don't need it on, or run it to a power strip with a switch. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml

I'll also suggest the Revell Peterbilt and Kenworth kits, don't let the snap kit label put you off. These kits are cheap, go together well and have a lot more detail than most expect when they see snap kit. The re-issued AMT kits are a good bargain, but as with any older kits there can be fit issues. The Ford C-600 and the Louisville are pretty painless, although you do have to fiddle with the hood on the Louisville to get it to fit right.

I'd be up for those, also waiting on the IH 2476, 2575 and Paystar.

Yep, I'd like to see that

Chuck, please do follow up on this. I have several 50, 53 and 56 Ford truck kits that could benefit from this. Lots of ideas brewing.

Sounds like it would be a good smart phone app. That way you would always have it handy at the hobby shop, vender table etc. I made an Excel spread sheet for my paints after I found myself with 15 bottles of flat black. A little duplication isn't bad, but paint isn't cheap and I thought that was a bit excessive. It works fine shopping on line, but I don't have it when shopping at a hobby shop.

I don't know the mechanism to do it, but on one non-model related forum necro is added to the title to let people know it is an old post raised from tbe dead. (Necro being short for necromancer a wizard that creates zombies and such). Since it appears in the title you know right away it is a very old post.

AITM has a 1960s F series medium / heavy duty truck, similar to the '57 but I don't think it is currently available.