Brutalform

Yea, Dave, there is a reissue of the AMT ERTL 67 Pro Street Chevelle. I have one in my stash. Its a maroon car on the box, and its a real nice kit. Its called AMT Buyers Choice. Besides the the tail lights and headers in the Revell kit, I personally do not care for the rear tires either. Very super soft tires, with these weird lips that go around the circumference of the rims, that mount inside the tire. Another kit that would be worth mentioning, is the AMT 70 Coronet Super Bee Pro Street.

Alan's tires are the best I've used so far. I bought a few, and just love em! Found some nice wrinkle walls on the Slixx decal website. I figured I give them a try too, since they also have "deep" rear steel rims for sale too.

Yes...I agree. I sometimes wonder why the skill levels are even there. I had built kits that were level 3, that, IMO were not that challenging. On the other hand, this kit is a level 2, and I must admit it is a bit challenging.

Nice build so far. I am using this kit with a regular 55 body, for a Pro Street build. I was wondering if you are happy with the rear tire mold? I had a real bad set, and got in touch with Revell, and got two new ones. Yours are not as bad as mine, but, I figured I would mention it to you. These were mine.

A "Little" freshening? I wish it was my car, and I was the one to have the freshening task.....Beautiful build!! The rust and wear looks very realistic! Nice old Poncho.

Can not wait till the site is up for ordering. Some really nice stuff on there!!

Very nice build!! BTW, what did you do to the engine?? Alclad??

Man that engine looks FANTASTIC....Looks very real!!!!!!!!

The leftover trees have a too large of a diameter, IHMO....You can use Evergreen 1/16 diameter, with a heat gun to bend it, and some Ambroid Pro Weld to keep the joints together.

Just as you have stated, I think some people do "tear" the kits just to make money....but I really think a lot of them are just trying to get some money back on the kits they had used for parts, bodies, chassis...etc. A lot of people have salvaged kits, that can probably make a complete kit, by just buying a body or chassis. The only time they will get a ridiculous price for something, is if someone is willing to pay for it.

Just bought the Revell Yenko Nova, and saved 40%. Ended up paying like $15.00 for it. Then as I checked out got another 40% off coupon for another visit, and bought a 70 Chevelle, for like $11.00. Just wished they would carry more stuff than just Revell. Ever since the Revell stuff is from China, I dont like it as much. Just waiting to get my hands on the 66 Impala...if they ever get it in at Michaels.

Thanks for the helpful replies everyone!!

I had this Starliner body soaking for over 24 hours now, and the fluid did not do a thing to it. Did not even soften it. The paint appears to be a glossy thick blue, with a lot of streaks in it, brush painted. I bought the kit off ebay real cheap, as the body and hood were painted. I really only wanted the frame for a 64 Galaxie build, and thought, if I can salvage the body, why not? I thought brake fluid would remove all paint?

If you fix the license plate mount, and give the interior a good cleaning, and vacuum....I'll take it!!!! Beautiful detail, and weathering. I had to double take, as I thought I was looking at the chassis of a 55 year old Chevy!!!Rusty Cherry Bombs and all. Very nice!!

Awesome build!!! Love the paint, and engine!!! I am using the same 55 Pro Mod kit for its chassis, and wheels, etc, to build a 55 pro street, using a regular old 55 body. Just as W-409 stated, it does not look Pro Mod, and that's exactly what I was looking for. The body that comes in the 55 Pro kit looks too "racey" for me. I wanted an old NMCA look. Did you have to stretch the engine cradle part of the tube chassis in or out? Also, what paint did you use on the carbs? I only have some Testors gold, but it never looks too good on a Holley carb though. Thanks Tom

Thanks Greg...like I said, I tried it on a scrap piece and it looks good. Did not get a chance with a base yet. Only thing is, it gets blemished when you touch it after its dry, when not sealed.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, it is for Lexan. I test sprayed it on a scrap piece with no black base, and it looks good. I got it for next to nothing. Gonna try it with the base to see what it looks like. Maybe it will do, until I spring for an air brush.

I just got a can of Alclad II spray chrome paint. First time using it. It says on the directions, to use a water based black paint for the base. If I used any other black besides a water based, would it work out ok? I know I can test it on a scrap piece of styrene, with other black sprays I have, but, I don't want the paint ruin the project, like a week or so after its been sprayed. Thanks. Tom

I can never get the yellow undercoat off using bleach. I will give the Dawn Power Dissolver a try next time.

Hemiman you have a PM.

You have the same problem as me, trying to decide which wheels for the 66 Fairlane. I was going to use the leftover steel wheels from my Hubert Platt Thunder Bolt kit, as they are Ford in design. But I am still up in the air about those, or going with a full drag rim out back. Got a few reference pics for you to see.

Just won an open Starliner kit, with a painted body, on Ebay, for about $6.00. Everything else is untouched. Looks like I found a chassis. Too bad one of the model manufactures, AMT, or Revell, does not make a kit of this particular Galaxie, with all the nice details. Now I gotta get my hands on a 427 engine for it. Probably will make a hood scoop for it.

Nice build!!!! I always had a soft spot for the early 60 drag cars. The "original" muscle cars IMO..