niteowl7710

If you can find any LASO decals jump on them when you can if they're within what you're willing to pay. A few years back LASO sent out Cease & Desists to Fowler Decals, & various retailers saying that the 1/25 decals were violating L.A. County & LASO's Trademarks. There was a period '90's sheet done by Fred Cady back in the day when Revell released this kit, but it's been long out of production since then. The only person I know who's doing LASO decals (beyond a one-off custom job) is JBOT Decals, perhaps the cease and desist doesn't apply to him via his Canadian-ness, or the fact that he usually got permission to do the decals directly from the departments. His sets have markings for K-9 units, along with the Contracts for East L.A., Paramount, Lancaster, Metro, & Metrolink, Presuming he's taking orders, his decals are second to none. http://www.jbot.ca/cars/us/lacs.shtml

Windshield engraving issue non-withstanding, I'd just as soon not have to pay nearly $100.00 for this model kit rather than worry about it not being a "popular" wheelbase/option package. That's sort of the story with pick-up kits for the past several decades...just sit there and puzzle why they chose the option packages they did. No one, and I mean no one ever decided tossing a 4x4 suspension underneath any Chevy, Dodge or Ford truck was a good idea except Lindberg?

The Revell kit can be either a 1991 or a 1992 Caprice. The biggest difference between the two were that in 1991 ALL cars regardless of colors had black "B" & "C" pillars on the door frame. 1992s had color keyed door pillars That is probably the best shot I can come up with on short notice at 2am of a hubcap too. They were stainless steel with the black centers and the word "Caprice" on them. The only wheel covers with bow-ties on them were a short production run of early 1991 cars that had plastic "frisbees" that were molded in silver with a gold bow tie. The wheels in the kit are correct for late 1991, entire 1992 model cars. As Bill mentions above there were no LT-1s until 1994. Now while there were exceptions, as you could get the interior in whichever available color you ordered it in, probably 95% of all the tan interiors put into Caprices through the entire run, (as well as Crown Vics for that matter) all were shipped to states that got the (in upfitter lingo) "Southern Package", which had heavy window tint, and lighter interior colors in the theory they held less heat. Florida Highway Patrol, CHP, Texas DPS, Arizona DPS, etc. Most fleet cars (aka marked, non-administrative) cars would have a black rubber floor from time immortal until the present day, it's just easier to clean up the mess that dealing with carpet. I'd have to go pull one out to look, but I'm pretty sure the kit has a rubber floor engraved into it.

Well the Fourgonnette is a mish-mash of tooling. The head designer at EBBRO is formerly a Tamiya employee, and struck up a deal to have Tamiya supply the engine, running gear, body and interior pieces from their "Masterpiece of the 80's" kit which as far as I know never had a RHD option. The Fourgonnette cargo parts were tooled up by EBBRO itself in 2013...probably not economically viable to tool up all the required RHD parts, especially considering you could never use them again as the bulk of the kits tooling doesn't belong to the company making the new parts. Tamiya for their part seems to enjoy cashing the checks from EBBRO, but isn't in a hurry to re-tool a nearly 30 year old kit to add in a Great Britain specific building option. For the ultimate purposes of this conversation the Trabant really IS from 2011.

Whoops typo, I meant 2012...I guess I can technically accept it as a 2013 kit, but there were enough 2013 kits that legitimately came out IN 2013 to not back-count Revell's end of year releases.

Just noticed the Round 2 website has a new description of this one... AMT reintroduces the Firestone "Super Stones" 1978 Ford 4x4 Pickup. Tooling modifications have been made to backdate the kit and improve accuracy. Improvements include the re-engraving of door key holes, front fender reflectors and retooling of the correct front bumper.

The Packers lost, the Lions lost...seems NO one wants to win the NFC North...

The original '57 Ford was a 2011 kit... The hobby was also graced with the Subaru BRZ./Toyota 86/Scion FR-S kits and their Rocket Bunny variants, the Ferrari F12 Berlinetta, La Ferrari, Subaru Sambar kits, and International ProStar.

Another factor would be who's responsible for the kit's overall Q.A. Is the chrome-plating done at the same factory that molds the kits, or like the boxes and decals, is it outsourced somewhere else? If out-sourced does the plating facilities inspection "count", eg - We inspected them, they're fine, and ready to go. Or does someone at the "end" boxing the kits up do a final inspection beyond assuring the correct number and types of baggies are included. Is the plating Q.C. a 100% rate, or just random runners are checked from each batch, and if no defects are found, they ship the entire batch? The frosting issue, combined with the the runners either not being entirely submerged in the plating tanks, or perhaps not properly undercoated resulting in runners like the one I got in the M.K. '57 Ford that half the runner has no plating on it is going to get Revell's attention in a big fat hurry when they have to replace a lot of parts, if not entire chrome runners in a landslide of replacement requests in the next quarter. I had planned to get the Shelby Convertible & '49 Merc, but now I'm hesitant to drop that cash if I'm going to have stupid Q.A. problems with the chrome. Guess I'll stick with the Beetle and Beetle Cabriolet since their plating is done in Poland, not China.

Whooooo-wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeee look at that price tag!! You got a deal for sure, but sheesh that's like a $52-$55 kit at the two hobby shops near my house...same with the new ProStar.

Looks like it's based on weight, and given that most model kits around a pound or so with the kit, packing materials and box it's $10.80 to ship it, and it'll take 1-3 weeks. So I guess technically you could have gotten the kit for $45.80, the trade off of saving $4.20 is not receiving your purchase for nearly a month. In the broader discussion I dismiss this notion of a brick and mortar store being a waste of "gas" & "time" to shop there. I'm sure there are some diehard glueheads here who really do go out the day a kit drops specifically to purchase that kit, but I'd bet by-and-large the majority of modelers (to say nothing of the casual builder that really pays the bills) doesn't hit their LHS unless their in the neighborhood. I was having the discussion recently with friends and the topic of a recently issued Revell kit came up, and that I know from the last time I was at the LHS getting supplies the kit on the shelf is nearly the same price it would be online, BUT I'd have to pay for shipping, which makes the cost higher. Then the gas & time factor was brought in, and I pointed out that I'm not going 11 miles to the LHS JUST for that kit, BUT I do have to get milk, butter, eggs, diapers, formula and juice. Low and behold there's a grocery store 2 blocks away that has a "make it & take it" salad bar I love, and has good donuts to boot. Am I REALLY wasting gas and time if I have to go out shopping in the first place? I hazard to guess most LHS shopping tends to happen under the same scenario...

This kit has come in-stock today at your favorite Japan-based plastic pusher.

Well the advertising board for this kit says "Coming in 2014!" That gives them 379 days by my count to get this get on the shelves for it to be "late".

There in lies the rub to the "Oh it's no big deal to drive outside the HoS...". You could collide with someone who was 3x the legal limit drunk, with a suspended license, after just committing a murder, while fleeing the police, and it would STILL be YOUR fault the accident happened, because legally YOU shouldn't have been there in the first place. The fines here in PA for driving over your HoS are over $1,500 at this point. Facing jail sentences, loss of your lively hood, or at least blowing an entire week or two worth of salary for what...a couple hundred bucks at best? Completely and totally not worth it in any way, shape or form.

Yeah both the forthcoming Fujimi and Aoshima Lambos.

You're going to have to play a solo version of FedEx flight tracker, as mine is still hanging out waiting on further Italian Super Cars to be released before years end before shipping a massive box which would have 11 models in it this go around once everything comes in stock.

Not sure professional driving lessons would have done much good for the guy in the Aventador who got run into by the "local driver"...but clearly the other two were following a little too close. Maybe it's just me, but when the Aventador caught fire...back when it was just starting, and one of those Gallardo belonged to me and ran, I would have got in my car and drove it clear of the fire, 600HP is more than enough go power to move a three wheeled car.

It is an exceptionally basic kit, these 911s (there are three off the same basic tooling) were originally Snap-Tite style kits. Contents, and the instructions here - http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10042244

That's an expensive (even direct from the "source") bundle right there. Don't forget to equip you bench with a magnet so you can find THE important one of the 8 billion hex nuts and threaded rods/bolts that come in that Harley when it slips out of your fingers and get eaten by the carpet monster!

So if we didn't finish anything, but bought a bunch of kit...does that put us in the NEGATIVE for the year?

Love my two local plastic pushers, but this is why I buy my Japanese kits FROM Japan (98% from HLJ)...$91? You can buy it direct, and then add in BOTH the Photo-Etch Detail-Up "Set", and the Carbon Fiber Detail-Up "Set" (both are by Tamiya themselves) and still get the kit to your front door for $69 total. Just the kit alone, and it's nearly a $40 difference? Sheesh someone is making a nice profit on that...

Well if you were to order it from HobbyLink Japan and ship it via SAL (what we call the "Slow Boat") then it looks like it'd cost $52.xx to your door at this moment in time. Could be a buck or two more or less depending on the exchange rate on any given day.

The problem with Rob Ford - well there a myriad of problems WITH Rob Ford - seems to lie in the fact that by Toronto law there's no way to recall or otherwise get rid of him unless he's convicted of a crime, unless he voluntarily resigns.

Well the Law Enforcement Agency in question is the DeKalb County School District Department of Public Safety, they patrol the schools, that's their job, it's what they do. Chamblee Police were involved once an arrest needed to be made ("needed") because the School District cops technically don't have authority more than 500' off of District property. So unless you renovated a house inside a Middle School THESE cops weren't going to stop anything. He also wasn't "put in jail" he was processed for a criminal offense (no matter how lame a charge *rimshot* it might be), this is Metro Atlanta, not rural Nebraska, you have to go to and through Central Booking. I also wonder how "oh what's the big deal" all of you would be if this guy just decided to plug his car into your outdoor outlet at your house without asking, or inversely how well Mr. Kamooneh would take to people showing up and charging their cars at HIS house without asking.

Are you talking Lacquer Acrylics like the Tamiya Spray line, or just acrylic paint run through an airbrush be it Tamiya X-Paints or Testors Acryl line? If it's just acrylic paint, the you can paint it over anything you want to, the problem comes when you paint OVER it. Acrylic should always be the last color painted as it can and will interact with enamels and particularly lacquers (automotive paint, Testor's MM Lacquers, Testor's Lacquer One Coat, etc). It's always best (if possible) to stick within a line of paint, and especially a formulation of paint (enamel, lacquer, acrylic) to keep from ruining you paint job by having the paint have a nasty chemical fight at the masking line.