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Everything posted by Scale-Master
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For what exactly? I used the bronze because it was a large enough chunk to machine the carb body from. As I recall slot car pick ups (if they are what I think you are referring to) are thin like foil, not applicable for this project.
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Converting the Red Barron to the Black Knight
Scale-Master replied to Pete J.'s topic in WIP: Model Cars
Clear lights would be my suggestion as well. Any color would be a distraction. Are you going to clean up that lower edge of the radiator opening? Looks like removing about 0.010 with a flat bastard file could fix it. Looking very good. -
Thanks Pete. I suspect the high amperage electricity and probable subsequent heat had some effect, and also likely some type of lubricant became impregnated into the bronze during its use on the ride. It seemed like a novel thing to use, but it does not seem to be the best quality bronze for model making.
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I'm enjoying this too. It's nice to see other people have Seven issues... It's great to have a back story to build to. Fantasy? Inspiration? Whatever, for me it provides some structure and direction. FWIW, I have seen more bizarre creations in real life.
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I keep a flashlight on the floor. At least I always know where it is… Heaven forbid I drop something in the garage (where I do my machine work and real car stuff) and it hits the concrete. My wife finds stuff I can't after (what seems like) hours of searching in (what seems like) seconds or minutes. Oh the days... when rug burns were a source of real achievement. Wait, finding that lost part is an accomplishment!
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A lot of it is simply that, (basic shapes). Looking at the core structure and not being distracted by the perceived complexity the details create. Not caring how long it takes to make something helps too. I started on the master for the Webers. The body is made from bronze I acquired from the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland. A friend who worked there gave me a set of used pick up shoes (think giant slot car). I machined the body to accept the venturi tubes; they are pieces of brass tubing. Soldering the bronze to the brass turned to be more difficult than I expected, and it doesn’t have much strength for hard edges either. It seems to be a porous and dirty metal, maybe from its previous life…? Next I added the bowl to it. Since the bronze needed far more heat to fuse other parts to it using solder than the brass, I opted to use styrene for these parts. Looks kind of like Wall-E…
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Beautiful! Just gorgeous! I know that sinking feeling... I swear, sometimes I think I spend as much time looking for parts I've dropped as I do making them...
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After looking at some of the other pictures and reading Roger's post, I am seeing other issues with the rocker area and the door line. At this stage I don't have an answer that would fix one problem without making another issue more prominent. As for scribing, it is easy, when done before painting... I use an X-Acto knife and a scriber along with a straight edge. Just go slow and make light passes, too much pressure can lead to deviation from the desired line, or worse, a slip.
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What happened to the bottom of the door? It is really noticable. Do you think you might have enough clear on it to rescribe and buff it out?
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A “Meriken” twist on a Japanese classic.
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I use talc mixed into my paint for the texture, ratio varies depending on the desired results. The cast portions that make up the gearbox and tail shaft assemblies of the transmission are built and have had some texture applied. The top of the gear case has been shot with a cold galvanizing coating. The trans is pinned together to help with future painting and assembly. More parts need to be machined to round this part out, but most of them are just hardware items.
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More details have been added to the rear section of the transmission, but there is still more to add and some cleanup to be done before texturing it.
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That's machining. The parts are in there, the trick is knowing what part wants out of what piece of aluminum...
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I started on the rear section of the transmission, all styrene construction with a little polyester filler.
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I also cut brass for the mounting faces of the bell housing and transmission.
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Thanks, as always... I made the top of the trans out of brass. I drew artwork for the pieces and then I acid cut the parts out, then soldered them together. It is made up of four parts.
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CNC mills are in some modelers homes now. Sherline offers a nice one. (I still like doing it the old fashioned way...)
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Interesting. Has a bit of Chevy Astro II look it. Appropriate color choice too.
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Yes, I worked at Precision Miniatures and did much of the white metal casting as well as some instructions and decal artwork. Same Scale-Master… Interestingly on these two models, they both shared the same decal sheet. But the older (1986) kit had better printed colors and they did not crack. The one year later issue had a different blue and the decals cracked quite a bit. You just never know until they hit the water...
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Here is the gearbox section of the transmission, more styrene construction. I need to make the trans before I can make the receiver section for the bell housing.
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Converting the Red Barron to the Black Knight
Scale-Master replied to Pete J.'s topic in WIP: Model Cars
Great job on the windscreen goggles! -
Thanks guys. It is good old cutting, filing, sanding and hand drilling sheet styrene. I used the lathe for the bell housing, but that was freehand filed while it turned. It is mostly done, it still needs a mounting point for the transmission.
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Thanks guys! This will be the bell housing. I made the flange from .020 sheet styrene and drilled some of the mounting holes in it and the back of the block. The housing is PVC schedule 40 pipe. I shaped the housing and added the bulge for the starter…
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I got a good start on the oil pan, made out of mostly styrene, and one piece of brass. And the oil filter mount… Also got more of the oiling system added to the block…
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The front areas of the both sections of the head have been finalized and more details have been added to the front of the block. Still more to build for the front of the block and some clean up needed on the head parts before texturing. Here’s the water pump and the thermostat housing dry fitted…
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