Codi

Mooneyz, Clay, Dave (comp1839) and EVERYONE else that has commented or is following the build, thank you for your flattering comments. Aarons (Jade043) comment was a bit over the top but appreciated as I look up to the scratchbuilders I just mentioned and get my inspiration from them....but to be considered in the same breath as them, well...I am truly flattered. Dave, glad you like the concept and the engine I picked. I like the unusual and thought this was a good one. When will we get to see some more of your build? Hopefully soon. If you EVER allow anyone to visit your shop while you're milling something, let me know. one day of watching (and asking a "few" questions of course) are worth weeks of reading and videos. I'm installing the DRO on my Sherline this week and finishing the set-up...then we'll see how that goes. Cheers, Tim

Thank you Chris. And also for the tip on how to update the post topic....it obviously worked. Looking forward to YOUR posts soon too! Cheers, Tim

Thanks Mitch for your positive comments. I've included some new pics of the revised battery tray and the fire bottles and bracket. Cheers, Tim

Great job Cato. I know it's been said many times, but it still needs repeating. And thanks for the reminder to know when to "walk away from it and say enough"....anyone can stare at just your engine on this build and spend the rest of the day ruminating on the "how did he do that?" Cheers, Tim

Gorgeous (I'm running out of ways to describe your build clay...) you might want to consider NOT painting any of it. Let your handiwork be "naked" for all to see. Cheers, Tim

Thanks Bob.

I don't follow nascar or dirt track builds usually...but I appreciate quality scratch building when I see it. Nice job Bill. Cheers, Tim

Fellow builders...a hearty thank you for your comments. I'm having a good time on this build and I'm at a "happy place" wherein I do my research, look at the pic and just start building what I see. Sometimes I get it right, others, not so much. I'm going to re-work my battery boxes and am well into the fire bottles & bracket among some other pieces. Soon, time to get to the chassis. I expect to have something modest to post later this coming week. Till then, my best regards to each and everyone of you that viewed this thread and shared your comments. btw, can anyone tell me how to post in the subject column additional comments to the thread such as "new pics posted blah blah blah" I can't figure it out for the life of me. duh! Cheers, Tim

Wayne, Love the paint & graphics you have planned for this build. Fun build to follow and look forward to your next posts. Tim

Karsten, Like your work. Great looking car....any pics of the engine and or chassis? Cheers, Tim

Harry, your bikes are stunning. Congratulations! Tim

Jeremy, love the decals/scripts you've prepped. You are to be commended on tackling such an interesting car. I always liked the real car but it turned out just wasn't to be. Fun to watch you build this and I get to learn along the way. Cheers, Tim

Cato, I don't care what scale or preference one might have in our hobby, everyone can certainly appreciate your build and talents. Beautfiul car sir! Tim

Steve, as a died in the wool Ford fan....nice build! Tim

Chris, anyone in our hobby should take a moment and look at your thread from the very beginning (as I have of course). I've learned things from your posts along the way & your attention to detail and pure effort on this build is just incredible. Cheers, Tim

Hi, Before I forget to do so, I want to acknowledge MicroNitro for the machined bottle that I used for the CO2 cylinder. I shortened the bottle to the appropriate length. Everything else is scratchbuilt. I don't want to take credit for something I didn't make of course. Lee & Chris, thank you too for your sentiments and I agree Chris, 1/16th scale for drag cars would be fun & challenging since there is so much you can consider in the build itself. You only have to look at Clay's mustang and the beautiful job he's doing on that build....simply amazing. Cheers, Tim

Hi, it's been a fairly good week. Rear shocks, Batteries and boxes and the CO2 bottle and it's bracket. Shocks are modified RB units with threaded collars and purple springs. Batteries are scratch as are the aluminum boxes. CO2 bottle has an all scratch brass regulator unit with fabbed alum. valve knob. The lower threaded line on the bottom of the bottle neck is a threaded bolt drilled out to replicate a proper fitting. The bottle bracket is drilled titanium with alum. hoops. The purple knob (again, scratch) on the back of the bracket is the release knob is the tensioner for the alum. hoops that secure the bottle. One twist, bottle is out. The brass regulator assembly was an interesting part to make. Cheers, Tim

booboo60.....sorry, here's the other answers I think you're seeking; a. the welds are the embossed 3D weld lines the guys have been posting about from Archer Fine Transfers. b. Color...I painted up 100+ spoons this Summer messing wtih Kandy/Pearl/Metallics/PearlX among others and I think this car will look best in Satin/Matt black of all things....keep it nasty looking. Maybe.... c. The "co-ax" cable from the steering wheels is micro wire from my parts supplies that are wrapped around a #75 drill bit. Simple to make actually. Tim

booboo60 (alan) I'll try to explain how I made them....it's not too difficult but it is time consuming. - measure the outer diameter of the can (or whatever you want to "clamp" down) and find appropriate/approximate alum. tubing that will slip over the item. -Slice/cut the width that you desire the "strap" to be. In this case it's about 1/16" - after getting your "ring" then slice it so you can remove a little bit in the middle...in this instance I made about 3/32" gap. I had some PE strip (from either MAS or Model Car Garage...not sure) that had the "necessary gap" in the middle and drilled either end with a #75 or #76 bit...enough to accept the .5mm scalehardware nut and bolt.... Bend back the ends of each PE piece so it will form a semi-circle which the bolt will go through the hold on and the "necessary gap" on the other. Super glue on on each side of your original tubing/clamp that you made in step one. Slide the entire assembly over your desired part and then install the bolt on one end and the nut on the other. And you have a v-clamp. Like I said at the beginning...a bit tedious and time consuming but it gives a very realistic representation of the real thing. Cheers.

To Austin, Bill, Glenn and Darryl a hearty thank you for your comments/posts. For Jeremy, glad you like it and are following the thread. Tell your Father I said "hi' and I'll see you at a club event this fall. I promise to bring something! Rodger, no, not a jeweler etc....just a crazy, retired dad (or so my kids say) that loves scratchbuilding. Ken, glad you like the Henry J and where I've gotten the body. There are countless hours in the bodywork that I didn't even bother to keep track. The cars stance / front clip alone was changed (substantially) or 3 different occassions. Finally got to one I liked. The car was even stuffed in a box out of frustation for 6 months. Got it back out for some odd reason and just started hacking on it for the heck of it. Next thing you know...I liked it again. It's finally ready to play I think. Back to the bench and cheers to all! Tim

Small Labor Day Update - pic's of the finished steering wheel. I'm embarrassed to say how much time I put into it. Cheers, Tim

Hi, Kingstrider - Conservatively it's over 1000 hours. This build took about 2 years of on-off building on this particular car. I average 18 to 25 hours a week of actual building. For each build I'm learning and trying new things (like soldering for the Willy's) and I end up re-doing parts along the way. I'm getting faster as I'm not having to re-learn certain things. MicroNitro (JIM) - Glad you like it. Your wheels look sharp on it for sure. I posted in "WIP" my Henry J Twin Turbo wherein I used the valve covers I commissioned from you. And the bellhousing...remember THAT one...or should I say three? Your wheels look good in the mock-up too.... Anyways, I'll be in touch as I'm going to need some of your beautiful hubs for that particular build. I just installed the 10k.pulley set on my Sherline and waiting on the DRO kit to arrive so I can install and start ruining some endmills. You can see more at my FOTKI link. Happy Labor Day to EVERYONE! Tim

NICE Scrappy. Everything you're doing is just fantastic. Your brakes are very slick. Cheers, Tim

Thank you fellas. SixtiesSam, thanks for the note on the frame. Even though it was my first one in brass, I encourage you to try it yourself. Soldering is not as hard as you might think but the final result can make it all worthwhile. misterNNL (Tom) I'm 58 and realize at somepoint the type of detail I can do today won't be possible, but there are so many other things I can't wait to attempt / explore in build techniques that I believe I'll be building for many years to come. Panel beating is high on the list. I'll look forward to seeing YOUR builds in the near future. Cheers

Thanks Carl & Andy.. I was ready to get into the build again with both feet, but I messed up a paint job on another project yesterday. So, sanding and re-paint are tops on the agenda now. I hurried at the end and you just can't do that when spraying Kandy. Anyways, my mill is almost set up and sometime soon I hope to have some new things to share on this build. Don't worry, this thread won't go "dead". I'm thinking that I can driop the rear of the cars stance another 2mm. That'll put it truly into the weeds. But I do have to keep in mind the height of my motor. Cheers, Tim