Codi

Hi Art, your chassis is very sharp. Great choice on the seat and I'm following your progress for sure. What engine will you be using on this build btw? Cheers, Tim

Hi, some updates on "Henry". Like many others, my previous post was lost but these pics will bring the build up to date. Next step is to machine some collectors and do the plumbing for the inters. Cheers, Tim The chassis fitment to the body so far is glove tight. An overall shot of the chassis Shot of the inters on their mounts and the drive shaft hoop with the push-pins installed. Detail of the hoop seperated and the accompanying push-pins. A different angle of the bottom and rear. Penny Shot

Harry, I was fortunate to have followed your thread during the build of this car. Even though the WIP thread is in server heaven, the final pics are still a stunning testament to what your abilities are. Congrats on a really sharp build. Tim

Chris, this has to be so satisfying now to see it coming together like this. Your efforts really show. Cheers, Tim

Simply superb Bill....a top of the line build if ever there was one. Congratulations. Cheers, Tim

David, a band saw in this instance. I do use lightweight tin shears at times. I cut the lid out and used tape to transfer the shape of the opening to a sheet of brass, Then I cut it out and shaped the lid and cleaned up the edges. Hope this helps. Cheers, Tim

Hi Guys, i've not posted pics lately as I've been working through the chassis design and build techniques before I get started. I've ordered a couple of new tools that should assist with the build as I'm committed to doing the chassis in brass afterall. I've also turned to Dave (comp1839) for insights on building a "correct" chassis for the car. He's a true wealth of information and he's helped tremendously in clearing up certain misperceptions I had about chassis design and rules for this particular car. There is so much stuff that must fit in the car and as I've stated before, space is at an extreme premium on this particular build. I'll post pics next week if all goes according to plan. Cheers, Tim btw, the chassis jig should be helpful but I did discover that all steel is not the same. I was practicing some new techniques of soldering on an older sheet of steel and ended up with solder splatter and blobs on the steel and the brass I had just soldered together was stuck to the steel sheet....."huh" I said....so I flipped it over and it was marked as "weld steel"....I got out another sheet of steel that was marked as plain ol' steel and had no such issues. Obviously there are different grades / types of steel and "weld" steel doesn't work for the jig. I bought the regular steel that I made the jig out of at Tractor Supply for those interested. It's 16 gauge.

Bill, so glad to see you back at it on this build. The inters and lights you did are fantastic. I enjoy your updates like everyone else and find them to be most inspiring. Cheers, Tim

Hi Mitch, there's a link at the bottom of my posts when you log in to this site that will direct you to my albums. Or just do a Fotki member search: I'm listed as Steppenwolf56 Cheers, Tim

Whoa Chris. I really like your new 3D pieces. Totally agree with you that the blower with the "M" truly stands out in it's detail. They all look nice that it even crossed my mind that you could show it with a spare blower and hat on a table next to the car (being worked upon maybe?) with 3D printed rotors too! Yeah, I'm nuts. Can't wait to see them in primer too. Cheers, Tim

Dave/Mike& Tim...Thanks for you compliments. Dave, a special thanks for all your help and insights. Bob, I use resistance soldering and did so on my Willy's. I have different sized tips that I use for the tighter spaces and that require less solder. I suspect that it will help on this build as well. Today I spent a few hours exploring methods of setting up brass tubing for drilling holes in straight lines on my mill. Used center drills (size 00) and they came out very well. It's important as I'm going to probably use 2mm tube for the two main bottom rails and then 1/16" tube for the other "main" rails. Then to tie them all together, I'm planning on using 3/64" rod. Those scale out to 2" and 1.6" and 1.2" frame rails in 1:1. Pretty accurate all in all to a real chassis. I might drop the 2mm and just use all 1/16". The next thing I want to figure out before getting started is how to tie in the 3/64" rod that runs diagonally to the parallel vertical and horizontal rails...if that makes any sense. That's probably the trickiest part in my estimation. Once I'm convinced that I can pull that off.......then I can move forward with the rest of my planning. Cheers to all of you! Tim

Hi everyone, I want to thank you for your posts and interest in the Henry build. It's taking a bit longer than I had hoped or anticipated but I'm taking my time to learn new things on this build. Now it's time to finally layout the chassis design itself. I'm leaning towards making it out of brass but on a build in 1/25th, soldering becomes a bit tricky because of the close proximity of the soldered joints. Nothing more frustrating than having a joint come apart while attempting a new one. If that doesn't work out too well, then it wil be plastic. Oh, and it's not going to be a ProMod....it'll be built as a Top Sportsman. Thanks again, Tim

Nicely done. Always liked fat fendered Porsches. Cheers.

Your fabrication skills and eye for detail are very impressive no matter what scale it might be. I especially like and appreciate your machining abilities. The quality really shows. Enjoying your posts as you near completion. Cheers

Got the rear end assembly bits and pieces done. There is a bit of touch-up and minor detailing I have yet to do but I can get started on the chassis itself now. I want to acknowledge an important contribution to the build and to me personally. Dave (comp1839) has been mentoring me as I'm trying my hand at machining. He assisted GREATLY with teaching me fundamentals AND he made the fabbed rear and carrier for the Henry. I couldn't be happier to put them on the car as they'll remind me of the man that got me started in milling and became a friend in the process. Cheers! Here are the two pieces Dave machined for me. There were 4 "facets" at the very end of the milling process on the rear itself that Dave did "freehand".....that was something to see. The brakes i made fought me all the way during assembly. I like how they turned out but admit they were tough to make. And of course, the "penny" shot.

Your attention to detail and super sanitary assembly shine through in the pics. Looking forward to your progress and updates. Cheers, Tim

And the "pistons" are turned down BMX bike titanium spoke that I found on-line for $3.00. Wanted to stay true to the rest of the calipers finish so....

Sorry Joe, if you look very closely at the part of the caliper that the pucks fit into, there are RB Motion .21 A/N fittings for the brakelines and teensy little brake bleed valves too. Not sure why I bothered as you can't see them without a magnifying glass. But they ARE there. Cheers

Oops, brakes aren't of use without pads. Here they are.

Hi everyone, Here are the fabbed brakes (all titanium pieces fabbed by hand) and the threaded hubs with nuts and the soldered 4 link axle brackets. I'll explain those when I should be able to share the rear end, brakes and hubs all as one unit which should be done by the weekend. I am quite pleased with the rear end itself especially with the help that I got from a friend. I'll explain on my next post. Then it's time to do begin the actual chassis construction. Thanks for following along. Cheers, Tim

Hi Jeff, I seem to remember someone suggested add food dye in the color you desire to future floor polish liquid and dipping clear plastic in it. I've never tried it, but that might be worth a couple dollars to see if it works. Tim

Beautiful work. I like your keen eye for detail even down to the texture of the material on your blower blanket. Even the extra time you took addressing the smallest detail of your valve covers shows. Cheers, Tim

Thank you for the sentiments Dave and Michael. Clayton, I sent you a PM. Cheers, Tim

I really iike it Chuck, you should build it. Put a Donovan in it. TDR has parts that could help out in 1/16th I believe. Cheers, Tim

Hey Dirk, hope things are well, just checking on your builds progress. I'm sure everyone that visits the forum is anxious to see what you are doing on this very slick build. Cheers, Tim