Codi

Harry, quick paint question for you. The paint on the fenders looks great. I see too that you reside in Chicago where the weather isn't the greatest. Certainly worse than Pennsylvania right now. How do you manage to get such nice paint down during the winter? I don't have a dedicated paint area beyond the basement which is no place to paint right now. Just curious and thanks in advance. Tim

Scott, I believe you're asking me about the 2 small quick release "push-pins". I took .5mm s/steel tubing and some various MAS PhotoEtch throttle linkage brackets that I modified. Drilled them out wtih a #74 (75?) bit and added a small and large PE washer front and back. The centers were then detailed with a dab of red machinist dye. The hoop itself is 1/16" tube that I had to drill out with a 3/64" bit (VERY thin walls now) I was then able to insert the 3/64" brass rod into the bottom half of the hoop, attached the top half and then drilled each side to accept the pins. The hoop was cut in half first btw. If I didn't answer your question clearly, let me know and I'll try to assist. Thanks Dr. Kerry for your comment too. Cheers Tim

Len, Tom and Chris, thanks for checking it out and your comments. Chris, I'd like to see what you have in store for everyone on your LSR car. Mine took many variations to get to the point you see it now. You can really let your imagination run wild which is one reason I like the whole idea of Bonneville and the cars that run there. The Speed Demon car set records with everything from V8's to 4 cylinder engines stuffed in it. A testament to their overall design and engineering of the overall car. It will be interesting to see what they do with the next one. Now I've got to get back to the Henry build as I have a LONG way to go on that one. Happy Holidays Gentlemen!

Thanks Art. Keep your build going as well, I'm looking for ideas as well and love to see what everyone else is doing. You're doing a super job. Great hobby huh! Happy Holidays Tim

Wow, what a response from everyone. I truly wasn't expecting the replies and interest. Thanks guys for sharing your enthsiasm for what was/is a work in progress but it WILL see the light of day. The entire car started as a vision of what to build to challenge the Bonneville record book. The real 1:1 car for inspiration was the recently destroyed Speed Demon car. (lost control at 370mph, driver survived with minor injuries, car was a total loss of course) Speed Demon was an engineering marvel and garnered many records during it's racing career. The team is building an all new car for next year btw. John Pol, btw, I was remiss....LSR is short for Land Speed Record which is THE goal of each car that competes at Bonneville every year. The class that this car would belong to would be the experimental, blown alcohol class. At least that's what I was building it around. I did buy the Bonneville 2013 rule book and tried to follow it to the letter. There is only one glaring error in the build and that would be the rear "rudder" that is designed to move 15 degrees either way to assist in steering the car at speed. It was a feature that the BAR F1 team used on their record setting Bonneville effort. The rules state the a moveable "device" such as my rudder is forbidden. It was too cool as a concept / build feature, that I just had to include it irregardless. Bernard, wasn't sure as to whether to post this thread under WIP or Drag racing...but the header for drag racing states "if it goes in a straight line" so I took it literally and posted the build here. Harry can move it if he thinks it would be more appropriate under WIP. Lastly, the nose was made of a layered up plastic piece of plastic that I "carved" by hand to get the shape I wanted. The exhaust ports on the back are 2000 era F-1 style "chimneys" that I made out out of aluminum that I think you'll like when you see them. The exhause blisters are modified aircraft fuel tanks, the front suspension and connecting fairings are angled / shaped aluminum tubing and the 4 wheel fairings are made in the shape of TV Tommy IVOS front engined dragster only because I thought they looked cool. They're plastic and aluminum. Can you tell this car is a real compilation of ideas and notions? Thanks again fellas, can't wait for spring to get it painted and finished. I probably have a months worth of work to finish it. Tim

Something a little different I started the winter of 2013. The turbo engine for my Henry J build was going to go in this car originally. Started life as a Toyota GT1 WEC car and modified it to become an "experimental class" LSR car. The project was moving along until I resurrected the Henry build and decided it should be a curbside build. I got so far as the paint but when I did the Kandy Blue portion, I rushed it and messed it up as it puddled. Kandy jobs can't be rushed as many of you know. UGH! This one will be completed first thing come springtime when the paint weather gets better here. The floor will be carbon fibre, the rear wing is adjustable/steerable and the wheels are from MicroNitro. It might be stalled but it will be completed. Comments always welcome and Happy Holidays to Everyone! Tim The blisters for the engine and trans are from model aircraft kits btw. The Moon discs you see in some of the photos will be centered on the wheel fairings. The paint will be two-tone silver and blue.

Nice choice for a build and well executed Tony. I loved that period of drag racing. Congrats. Tim

Derrick, Stan and Joe.....thank you for the nice comments & your continued interest on the build. Chris(Mooneyz) I saw your post on your tins and what happened. Sorry you have to deal with that, but like you pointed out, it's "only" the one that needs to be made again and not all of them. But I felt your pain as a build as involved as yours, it can get disheartening to have even a minor set back when you're getting close to completing it. Keep your great attitude and thanks for sharing the info so others might avoid the same mistake. And thanks for your compliments on Henry. John.(Mr. Teresi) ....I'm so glad you like it. At the rate I'm going, you'll be able to follow this build for a LONG time. I have some cool things I want to do along the way yet and I've come to the conclusion that it won't be done by summer 2015 afterall. Thanks again! Gene, sorry, "inters" is an abbreviation for intercoolers. They take the air from the turbos and literally chill it before routing it to the intake. My challenge is to make collectors and plumbing that take 4 pipes and merge them into 2 for space reasons. Hope this helps. Cheers, Tim

John, Now you went and did it....I truly can't decide which one I like best. The interior in the "custom" is just fantastic and I love how you come up with such unique builds. Always enjoy your build threads, thanks for sharing. Cheers, Tim

Now those are some impressive fabricating skills. I always look forward to your updates Randy and what you might attempt next on this thread. Cheers, Tim

Hi Art, your chassis is very sharp. Great choice on the seat and I'm following your progress for sure. What engine will you be using on this build btw? Cheers, Tim

Hi, some updates on "Henry". Like many others, my previous post was lost but these pics will bring the build up to date. Next step is to machine some collectors and do the plumbing for the inters. Cheers, Tim The chassis fitment to the body so far is glove tight. An overall shot of the chassis Shot of the inters on their mounts and the drive shaft hoop with the push-pins installed. Detail of the hoop seperated and the accompanying push-pins. A different angle of the bottom and rear. Penny Shot

Harry, I was fortunate to have followed your thread during the build of this car. Even though the WIP thread is in server heaven, the final pics are still a stunning testament to what your abilities are. Congrats on a really sharp build. Tim

Chris, this has to be so satisfying now to see it coming together like this. Your efforts really show. Cheers, Tim

Simply superb Bill....a top of the line build if ever there was one. Congratulations. Cheers, Tim

David, a band saw in this instance. I do use lightweight tin shears at times. I cut the lid out and used tape to transfer the shape of the opening to a sheet of brass, Then I cut it out and shaped the lid and cleaned up the edges. Hope this helps. Cheers, Tim

Hi Guys, i've not posted pics lately as I've been working through the chassis design and build techniques before I get started. I've ordered a couple of new tools that should assist with the build as I'm committed to doing the chassis in brass afterall. I've also turned to Dave (comp1839) for insights on building a "correct" chassis for the car. He's a true wealth of information and he's helped tremendously in clearing up certain misperceptions I had about chassis design and rules for this particular car. There is so much stuff that must fit in the car and as I've stated before, space is at an extreme premium on this particular build. I'll post pics next week if all goes according to plan. Cheers, Tim btw, the chassis jig should be helpful but I did discover that all steel is not the same. I was practicing some new techniques of soldering on an older sheet of steel and ended up with solder splatter and blobs on the steel and the brass I had just soldered together was stuck to the steel sheet....."huh" I said....so I flipped it over and it was marked as "weld steel"....I got out another sheet of steel that was marked as plain ol' steel and had no such issues. Obviously there are different grades / types of steel and "weld" steel doesn't work for the jig. I bought the regular steel that I made the jig out of at Tractor Supply for those interested. It's 16 gauge.

Bill, so glad to see you back at it on this build. The inters and lights you did are fantastic. I enjoy your updates like everyone else and find them to be most inspiring. Cheers, Tim

Hi Mitch, there's a link at the bottom of my posts when you log in to this site that will direct you to my albums. Or just do a Fotki member search: I'm listed as Steppenwolf56 Cheers, Tim

Whoa Chris. I really like your new 3D pieces. Totally agree with you that the blower with the "M" truly stands out in it's detail. They all look nice that it even crossed my mind that you could show it with a spare blower and hat on a table next to the car (being worked upon maybe?) with 3D printed rotors too! Yeah, I'm nuts. Can't wait to see them in primer too. Cheers, Tim

Dave/Mike& Tim...Thanks for you compliments. Dave, a special thanks for all your help and insights. Bob, I use resistance soldering and did so on my Willy's. I have different sized tips that I use for the tighter spaces and that require less solder. I suspect that it will help on this build as well. Today I spent a few hours exploring methods of setting up brass tubing for drilling holes in straight lines on my mill. Used center drills (size 00) and they came out very well. It's important as I'm going to probably use 2mm tube for the two main bottom rails and then 1/16" tube for the other "main" rails. Then to tie them all together, I'm planning on using 3/64" rod. Those scale out to 2" and 1.6" and 1.2" frame rails in 1:1. Pretty accurate all in all to a real chassis. I might drop the 2mm and just use all 1/16". The next thing I want to figure out before getting started is how to tie in the 3/64" rod that runs diagonally to the parallel vertical and horizontal rails...if that makes any sense. That's probably the trickiest part in my estimation. Once I'm convinced that I can pull that off.......then I can move forward with the rest of my planning. Cheers to all of you! Tim

Hi everyone, I want to thank you for your posts and interest in the Henry build. It's taking a bit longer than I had hoped or anticipated but I'm taking my time to learn new things on this build. Now it's time to finally layout the chassis design itself. I'm leaning towards making it out of brass but on a build in 1/25th, soldering becomes a bit tricky because of the close proximity of the soldered joints. Nothing more frustrating than having a joint come apart while attempting a new one. If that doesn't work out too well, then it wil be plastic. Oh, and it's not going to be a ProMod....it'll be built as a Top Sportsman. Thanks again, Tim

Nicely done. Always liked fat fendered Porsches. Cheers.

Your fabrication skills and eye for detail are very impressive no matter what scale it might be. I especially like and appreciate your machining abilities. The quality really shows. Enjoying your posts as you near completion. Cheers

Got the rear end assembly bits and pieces done. There is a bit of touch-up and minor detailing I have yet to do but I can get started on the chassis itself now. I want to acknowledge an important contribution to the build and to me personally. Dave (comp1839) has been mentoring me as I'm trying my hand at machining. He assisted GREATLY with teaching me fundamentals AND he made the fabbed rear and carrier for the Henry. I couldn't be happier to put them on the car as they'll remind me of the man that got me started in milling and became a friend in the process. Cheers! Here are the two pieces Dave machined for me. There were 4 "facets" at the very end of the milling process on the rear itself that Dave did "freehand".....that was something to see. The brakes i made fought me all the way during assembly. I like how they turned out but admit they were tough to make. And of course, the "penny" shot.