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Codi

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Everything posted by Codi

  1. Jeff, great start. I'd say for a "beginner" you're doing JUST fine. We're getting quite a few scratch builders right not on the WIP and Drag categories, always enjoy seeing more. Did you do the wheels too? Cheers, Tim
  2. Hi Guys, A couple quick pics of what I've been spending my time on. I could have free handed the mid-plate and had it done in 2 hours. BUT, I wouldn't have learned anything new AND it wouldn't have been quite as nice as what I'm trying to do instead. I'm milling the mid-plate of alum. and messing around with different mill ends to get a finish that I think is kinda cool. I saw this piece as an opportunity to experiment and learn how I might eventually make my rear wing struts for Henry out of aluminum. This "exercise" will provide valuable experience for when I attempt that. The 1st pic is the rendering showing the design and where to drill the holes etc. It took me TWO hours to do the drawing. Dave (comp1839) would have had it done in less than 30 minutes. BUT, it's so cool to draw something then trust the machine and your read-outs to plot everything else. And trust what you draw. I hope this works is all I can say. The drawing is over a foot tall btw. ( The next 2 pics show the mid-plate on the tool I made to hold the aluminum. In these pics I've center drilled (size Triple Zero) the necessary holes that I plotted out. Next is to drill them out with # 71 and #74 bits depending on the hole and the larger ones will get drilled at the very end. The blue marker on the alum. just helps me see what I'm doing. Unfortunately it's hiding the milled surface that I got so far, which I think looks VERY cool. I'll drill out the ends of 1/16" brass rod and tap and thread them so I can secure the plate with 1.0mm threaded bolts. I'll solder the other joints and tubes that connect elsewhere on the trans tunnel. Lastly, I thank each of you that have been following along and are enjoying the build. I assure you however, not as much as I am. Martin (Lowlife) thank you for the compliment. (the one where you stated I sound like a nice guy) so far as my building skills, I assure you there are many other builders on this forum that blow my work away. I won't go into naming names as I'm sure I'd omit someone and therefore might offend. We each have our own skills and building style. I'm glad you appreciate mine. But again, thank you. Cheers to all. Tim
  3. Aaahhh, Randy. I'm getting closer. At the moment I've spent a ridiculous amount of time honing my beginners machinist skills. I'm making drawings (takes me 2 hours what comp1839 does in 30 minutes) and rudimentary tooling to make a machined aluminum mid-plate right now. The machining is under way and hopefully if I don't do something stupid, it should be done tomorrow and look pretty good. Then some fairly quick trans tunnel fabbing to tie this together and I'll post. I did complete the chassis jig "backbone" which is very handy for setup purposes and soldered the chassis side rails onto the outer chassis tube rails so I can eventually affix the body permanently to the chassis. I'll share those pics as well at my next posting. Cheers and thanks for thinking about "Henry". (you'll note how personal the build has become as its no longer "the Henry J".......just Henry. Speaking of which, where's YOUR updates post? Tim
  4. Manny, Michael and JC, thank you for the compliments, I am truly flattered. We finish them and put them on the shelf and sort of forget them as we move onto the next build. But when I recieved my copy of the magazine, of course I went out and bought some more. Just for posterity right? Seriously, to have the build be received so positively by fellow builders means a lot to me. Brian, wow. That is a heck of a background you have. And your assessment of my skills is greatly appreciated. I look forward to seeing some WIPs soon of yours and welcome back to the hobby. Lastly, I'd like to thank Harry P. and MCM for his (their) assistance in putting together the article for the magazine. He truly did justice to the car and build and was VERY generous in the coverage he provided for it. Again, thank you. Cheers, Tim
  5. D-R-O-P D-E-A-D G-O-R-G-E-O-U-S cheers, tim
  6. Fantastic update Art. You and Randy D. have us all drooling over your fabrication skills. And the best part is that there's more to come. Cheers, Tim
  7. Truly inspiring work Randy. Just stunning. Tim
  8. Randy, NICE is all I can say. Love your build and always look for you updates. You didn't disappoint. Cheers, Tim
  9. My bad Bill...if I'd taken 2 seconds to read your very first post on this build, I could/would have saved you the time to explain your path on the car. Looking foward to your next progress post. Cheers, Tim
  10. Bill, this is such an interesting (in the best way) concept and build. it's easy to see why everyone likes it. Any thought on blending the bodywork on top that sticks up at the rear of the cockpit and blending it in to the headrest fairing. When you show the awesome side profile I'm "seeing" a beautiful curved line following the rear fender that would blend so nicely into the front hood. It would require a bit of tapering and shaping on your part but seeing how much you've accomplished (successfully I'd add) I think it might be worth the effort. I hope I didn't step on your toes. Either way, you've got a winner on your hands. I'll be sure to follow this one. Great engine choice too btw! Cheers, Tim
  11. Clean and sharp James. You did them proud. Tim
  12. Codi

    CanAm Thunder

    Cal, I just LOVE the old Can-Am cars. Cars that weighed little more than F1 cars but with upwards of 1500 hp. Just crazy. Please post your 429er when it's done. I have some awesome books on Can-Am cars and racing and that was a great car. Cheers, Tim
  13. Hey Art, whatcha doin' ? Can't wait for your next progress pics. Cheers, Tim
  14. Glenn, Mike and Aaron, appreciate it again guys. Some challenging parts of the chassis coming up that I think you'll enjoy. Spent the day machining the chassis jig "backbone" as I've nicknamed it. Once it's finished I'll post a couple pics and a very brief explanation as to why I made it this way. Gene, you have no idea how much your comment about its stance & "personality" looking "purposeful" means to me. I couldn't figure out how to describe the look I wanted, but you nailed it.
  15. fronts from futurattraction the slicks are compresins
  16. Mike/Ron/Chris and Mark......thanks again guys. i'm in the final stance phase and took time today to figure out how to set it up for quick on/off and for accuracy in addition to the actual soldering that I'll do while it's in place. With the doors / front posts and rear suspension coming up soon it's high time I figured out the final fabbing process. The stance at the front spoiler is EXACTLY a scale 3" and at the body in front of the rear tire it's 5". I liberally added past practices of Dave (comp1839) and Clay Kemp in addition to my own ideas to get to where I'm going so I can finish the chassis fab and hopefully use some of the techniques on future builds if successful.. I'll post in a week or so as I make some real progress with it...until then..................Cheers, Tim I've said many times how tight the interior is on this car, which is why I've spent SOOO much time on the planning and fabbing of certain pieces so far. The distance from the main hoop to the front door post is exactly 2".......talk about putting the proverbial 5 lbs. of whatever into a 1 lb. bag.
  17. POP, that's what comes to mind when I see that blue. WOW. looks really good Chris. Tim
  18. Chris, I tip my hat to your never ending pursuit of true replication / perfection. I never would have thought about the color of the trans blanket to be honest. I'm especially jealous of the fact that I see paint and an air-brush in your post. It's 24 degrees here. UGH! And your tins look good too. Cheers, Tim
  19. Thanks again Bob. Joe, when you say "fuzz" any chance you can PM me with a pic so I better understand what you're describing? I've never had an issue with Loctite after it's been applied. It does not dry clear although they have introduced some new CA glues that they claim dry clear. The applicator grabs only a small amount of glue at a time...a drop or so. The capilary action of the applicator applies just enough so it mostly flows below the weld and sets. If I get too much on, I just lightly dab the area on top of the weld to clean it up. The glue I show in the pic is very thin and flows readily. I tried earlier to post an edit update wherein I stated that I select the weld I want to apply of course, then sand it with a fine sanding stick. Wipe it clean with 91% alcolhol, allow to dry and then apply. Cheers guys!
  20. Thanks Guys. Here's the Hobby Design metal welds glued on the intercooler pipes. There are a few tiny spots of superglue yet that I need to "scrape" off and then buff with my dremel wheel. You'll see them as discoloration around the weld itself. The camera misses NOTHING! Pics 3 and 4 relate to how I did them on the angled elbows. Cheers, Tim In this picture please note I used locking tweezers with electrical shrink tube on the tips to hold the weld securely while I apply the super glue with a MicroMark metal glue applicator. After 10 minutes, I remove the tweezer, snip off the excess weld and then apply a tiny amount of glue to the very ends of the weld. I held the ends down for a few minutes using a tooth pick but a rubber type of applicator would be better. Super glue tries to even grab onto the tooth pick. The next step is to use the back of an X-acto 11 blade and oh so carefully scrape any excess glue away from the weld. Then I use the dremel wheel in the 2nd pic set at the lowest speed possible to polish the entire pipe and the welds. Clean it all up with 91% isoprypl alcolhol to remove any fingerprints and dirt and set aside till final assembly. Tools used - Hope this helps anyone looking to use the welds in the future. They can be a bit challenging but hopefully this willl save you some time.
  21. To everyone following and posting favorable comments.... i REALLY do appreciate your words and interest. Art, keep that brass midget going, I'm following it for sure. and Scott, you're very welcome on the drive shaft loop question. I'm spending too much time today putting welds on the inter pipes. My angles on the pipes make putting the welds on "challenging" as they're not simply round pipe but they have "sharp" edges if you will.....not my favorite thing to do I assure you. But they will be done by days end and I found a technique that is helping to speed it along a bit. I'll share the tip later when I post the results. Here's a couple picks of the bottle on the main hoop now. And cheers to all, Tim And from the back
  22. Todd, nice nice start. I'll be sure to check it out as you progress. But 2 questions: a. Why are you building now when it's summer in Australia? and b. You do KNOW that your funny cage is on the "wrong" side? Cheers, Tim
  23. Thanks Randy. So far as making nuts and bolts......that's where I draw the line even though some think I am "nuts"...... Tim
  24. David, great photos of a great can and build. You can tell them to just mail you the trophy. Cheers, Tim
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