Codi

Jeremy - Thanks again and tell your father I said "hello'! Jeff - I used a sherline slitting saw with a .020" blade. When it gets near the end I carefully grab it a pair of tweezers and ever so slowly advance the wheel until it comes off. Key word is "carefully". And yes, like you, I've had more than my share of parts lost on the floor that I've renamed "the Lost World". Jonathon Thanks as well. RAY, glad this helps in some way. If you have any further questions OR suggestions to make it better, pleaes let me know. Mitchell - Thought you'd get a kick out of Dave's builds. He lives on another planet from the rest of us as his work is so "alien" in it's execution. Thanks Chris for providing the link too! Joe - I sound just like him too when I have my paint mask on. Mr. Teresi - Greatly appreciated as always........now, again, how do I get to that boat build thread you've got going on. I had it and now I can't find it again. BTW - I FOUND your boat thread under "OTHER BUILDS" on the forum, for those of you that have not seen it or were aware of what mad genius John was displaying, go check it out. Totally cool.

Wow Ray. That is pulling in beautifully. Thanks for the amount of detail and photos you're sharing along the way. There are important lessons here that I'm sure I'll attempt to replicate one day and you're blazing a great path. Cheers, Tim

Glad to see you back on this one John. Now where do I go to check out you boat thread? Cheers, Tim

Hi, I'd like to address those that posted comments individually: Randy - many hours of prep to get to the fabbing part now. I'm learning machining as I go and it's slowing me down but I'm not really building a model here, I'm getting an education in actuality. More after school time is going to be required I'm afraid. I spent 2 1/2 hours making those twin small anti-roll brackets on the mill...they're 3.8 x 4.8mm (tiny I assure you) but they're a much cooler solution that I wanted to try to make....that's where my time has been spent. The jig brackets were machined from 1/4" alum. rod which took me too long to make as well. I know you can relate. Hopefully (I'm counting on it) this will work now as I get to fabbing the back-half. Thanks for following along too! Chris - Scratchbuilding sure is rewarding but it's tough and time consuming as you well know. You get what you put into it I guess. Great job on the blanket too! Keep her going now and thanks for your compliments. Dave - mimickry is the sincerest form of flattery and I'm doing my best to learn and replicate some of the things and lessons you've shared personally. Guys, go check out Dave's engine build. A true Monster small block that even Godzilla would fear. (photobucket - "comp1839" ) You won't be let down. Ray - Tyrone- Leonard and Dave - Thank you gentlemen for your continued interest and the kind words. I think the coming few weeks will really be a good as it relates to progress now. Joe - "dragons'.....I'm going to take that as a compliment....you do know however that Godzilla was NOT a dragon. Bruce - thank you sir. I really like your build on your Wolf F1. You are absolutely nailing the colorations all along the way. You have some very sharp talents there too my friend. I did pick up a HiroBoy 1/12th Porsche 917 LH recently...at my rate I'll get to it in a year or so. SOOOO many opps for detailing in 1/12th that it boggles my mind even where to begin. And man is it a BIG car compared to the Henry. Thanks too for your words and interest. Michael, glad to be of help as always. The grid is 1/8 of an inch. More like 4mm. I'll take apart the jig as I have to put the 4 link brackets on next to locate the axle front to rear with the chassis. I also want to scribe some vertical marks for lining up purposes on the brackets I made. That's why you see red machinist dye on them in certain areas. It will make alignment even easier I believe. I put the entire assembly plate on a machinist vice that is a twin axis. It raises the car to a level that I don't have to bend over nearly as much. I was getting a stiff neck too often from bending over the table and the gyrations while soldering were too much. I can even tilt the table if I need to for soldering purposes. I'm anxious to see how that helps. Appreciate your compliment and for following. Now where are those ladder bars for YOUR car. Cheers, Tim

Hi, I guess if you don't post for a while you kind of forget how to. I just took 20 minutes to post to the thread and I obviously did something wrong. In brief, here are some new pics and if you have any questions, please ask and I'll do my best to explain. Cheers, Tim I did "borrow" liberally from some of the chassis jig ideas that Dave(comp1839) used and shared on his Camaro ProMod build. I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel, only trying to make it work on this particular build for the scale that I'm working in. The brackets are really helpful in locating the axle and shocks so I can build the backhalf off their locations.

NICE RAY.....I knew this would be an awesome thread. Great work on the cowl ! Tim

Hi Ray, you sir must be a mind reader as I've spent quite a bit of time and brain power (which I don't have to spare) on how to fab what I now have down on paper. The axle brackets are done. They work well and now I know what I MUST make (another pair of similar type supports albeit taller) that will help me "locate" the proper shock location. Then it's time to solder. I promise to share what I've come up with BEFORE I start the chassis fabbing. I think that what I will be describing might make more sense to anyone interested before I actually start soldering it up. I am encouraged by the progress I'm making and the ideas should be replicable for future builds. The only thought I have for anyone considering my current jig for this build is that it might not be applicable for a different type of car. Such as your GT-40...but if there are ideas that I can offer that help you or anyone else, then that is all I can hope for. Cheers, Tim SORRY RAY, I meant your Big Boyz Deuce build.......not Randy's GT-40. Tim

Hi Randy, "mc" ...model club? What car are you doing in 1/12th btw? Cheers, Tim

Hey Randy...very soon...I've been making small parts, chassis jig pieces and final drawings so that I can start fabrication of the back end at some point next week. I've spent time also finishing up some small details on my brakes and even soldering some simple tiny tabs on my 4 link brackets (which took me too long as one of them "moved" and I had to take it apart and re-do it..my fault as I didn't take the necessary precaution before soldering it up) I'm working very tight tolerances (which you know all about) and it really serves to remind me what scratch building means.....these modern drag chassis require more thought and planning than my Willy's chassis. Be assured though, I'm making headway. I'll post pics sometime next week. Thanks for thinking about the build! Cheers, Tim btw, killer job on the steering rack on your gt40. Just superb.

Great car that you've selected Bruce and you're certainly off to a super start. Thanks for sharing the details on the paint for the engine/trans. It looks VERY realistic.....I'm going to step up to 1/12th at somepoint and it will be interesting to see how much detail you can put into 1 car. Best to you on the build! Tim

Sorry to hear this Art but certainly understood. Will certainly follow along when you eventually get back to it. Cheers, Tim

Great update Randy. Was just thinking about this build and sure enough, we get some really cool pics from you. Nicely done on each part! Cheers, Tim

Ray, thanks for the info....you'll note that i left out a very important word (now in bold) in my earlier post........and appreciate the very quick reply. I can appreciate all the planning you've done. Has to be rewarding to be underway and to make such quick progress. I know you'll keep us apprised to your progress, can't wait to see what you do next with it. Cheers, Tim

Thank you Ray. I did buy an assortment of new Fretz hammers, a leather sandbag and some other basic "beating" tools, but I'm NOT certainly ready to take on a project such as yours. Like you, I have the same admiration for those that have the skills to do what you're tackling. I'll have to take time to check out the links you've provided as well. That wheel you have is something that I would like to get as well when the time is right. It has to be a real handy tool and I'll be watching your results as you get to that phase. You're off to an excellent start. One question, have you frequently annealed the aluminum as you're working it or have you skipped that completely? Cheers, Tim

Ray, you are correct sir. I think I ended up using 4 different mill ends (different sizes and 1 ball end) to make it. The one accessory that Sherline sells that I want to get next is a vertical plate for the rotary table then I can do some things that I've wanted to but haven't just yet. And I read your comments on your "Big Boyz" build. Thanks for the comments. For all of you builders that haven't checked it out, you really should. Ray is doing some REALLY cool panel beating. Cheers

Wow Ray. If there is one "skill" I want to learn someday, it's panel beating like you're doing. As an acknowledged "newbie" to it, it's great to see how you're progressing and the lessons you're learning. I'll be sure to follow along as I'm sure they'll be MANY lessons I can learn when I pick up the hammer too. The efforts and results I've achieved to date can't compare to what you've achieved. Just fantastic!!! Cheers, Tim

Kerry and Dave, THANKS GUYS, I've been spending time prepping some parts / things so I can finally start soldering some back-half brass. I've done some quick mock-ups with the rear in place and I have to say it's looking pretty good. John, thank you as well......now aren't we due for an update by YOU? Anxious to see how you're doing. Cheers

Tim, "a Ford in a Ford" put a big ol' smile on my face. This a cool build and I especially like the uniqueness of the car in the overall. Cheers, Tim

NIce solution to the plunger issue Chris and the combination of materials on your blanket. You're really moving along now and it continues to get better and better. Cheers, Tim

I commend you Tyrone for going to turbos on the stang. I like the way you integrated the bumper to the front end and hood. Sharp. Cheers, Tim

Hope the weather breaks your way Chris. Granted, I am being selfish because I want to see it painted too. The housing & trans are really coming along nicely. Cheers, Tim

Brad, no meaning on the 55' on the penny. I just like the old coins and the wheat stalks on the opposite of the coin. Silly huh? Bob, thank you again. Scott, I'll have to share that with my kids, they'll think you're nuts. Thanks much. Michael, I agree, don't wear jewelry of any kind when machining right? ! Chris.....you gotta break down and raid the piggy bank and get a mill. You'll never look back. As always I appreciate your interest and kind words. Cheers, Tim

Hey Art....big thanks for your comment. Greatly appreciated. I got the anti-roll bar completed. Only took me 30 minutes to machine the twin. They match perfectly (to my eye anyways) Couple of bolts and they're done. The most time consuming part in completing them was slicing the ends for the RB Motion rod end to slide into so I can bolt them up using .5mm nuts/bolts. Cheers, Tim

Brad, I'm using 7075 and 6061. This part was 7075. I have learned that if your drawings are solid and the setup of your machine is accurate, then you can pull tolerances that simply amaze. And the more talent you have, the better (see Comp1839) . Oh, and Dave taught me how important it is to have your pen and tablet ready and to take down notes and calculations during the entire process. Thank goodness I did that when making this little guy, otherwise it would be next to impossible to make another. I'm fairly confident that I can get the 2nd one done fairly quickly and finish them both off with a few minor details and clean-up. Thank you for the compliment too! Scott, you're correct about the duplication process and metal v. plastic. But the mill gives you the opportunity to make truly matching parts that you'll rarely ever achieve doing them by hand/eye alone. I'm enjoying the learning curve in machining as I can see for myself that the more you do it, the better it gets. When I look at Clay's engine blocks and heads or Dave's entire builds it is truly something to marvel at what they can achieve with a lathe and mill. Which is just about anything. And yes, it is tiny. Took me a few hours afterwards for my eyes to re-adjust. Thank you Mike. Tyrone, appreciate your following along and YOUR comments. Your builds are always cleanly executed and anyone can see your progression on each build as you get better and better. Painting doesn't go down quick and easy for me it seems and requires a bunch of polishing to get finishes like you got on the Camaro. Especially in black. Again, thanks. Joe, I applied to Rolex but all they wanted me to make was sillly watches so I declined. Allen, thank you as well. Cheers fellas and I'll post a pic later today of the "twins" if all goes as planned. Tim

Got 1 of the anti-roll bar brackets done. It's 8.3mm long. 3.2mm at its widest point. I was pleased that I could machine the small "chamfer" (it's 2.4mm in length at a depth of .40mm) down the middle between the large hole you see and the mark for the small hole that I've yet to drill on the narrow end. Have to round the edges and drill for the bolt in the end that secures it to the actual bar. Oh, and make another one that matches. Learned ALOT today in machining this little bugger. I had a great starting point with info that Dave shared with me again. When working this small though, I did have to make some small adjustments along the way. But I won't complain as I do like it. Comments welcome as always. Cheers, Tim