Codi

Clean and sharp James. You did them proud. Tim

Cal, I just LOVE the old Can-Am cars. Cars that weighed little more than F1 cars but with upwards of 1500 hp. Just crazy. Please post your 429er when it's done. I have some awesome books on Can-Am cars and racing and that was a great car. Cheers, Tim

Hey Art, whatcha doin' ? Can't wait for your next progress pics. Cheers, Tim

Glenn, Mike and Aaron, appreciate it again guys. Some challenging parts of the chassis coming up that I think you'll enjoy. Spent the day machining the chassis jig "backbone" as I've nicknamed it. Once it's finished I'll post a couple pics and a very brief explanation as to why I made it this way. Gene, you have no idea how much your comment about its stance & "personality" looking "purposeful" means to me. I couldn't figure out how to describe the look I wanted, but you nailed it.

fronts from futurattraction the slicks are compresins

Mike/Ron/Chris and Mark......thanks again guys. i'm in the final stance phase and took time today to figure out how to set it up for quick on/off and for accuracy in addition to the actual soldering that I'll do while it's in place. With the doors / front posts and rear suspension coming up soon it's high time I figured out the final fabbing process. The stance at the front spoiler is EXACTLY a scale 3" and at the body in front of the rear tire it's 5". I liberally added past practices of Dave (comp1839) and Clay Kemp in addition to my own ideas to get to where I'm going so I can finish the chassis fab and hopefully use some of the techniques on future builds if successful.. I'll post in a week or so as I make some real progress with it...until then..................Cheers, Tim I've said many times how tight the interior is on this car, which is why I've spent SOOO much time on the planning and fabbing of certain pieces so far. The distance from the main hoop to the front door post is exactly 2".......talk about putting the proverbial 5 lbs. of whatever into a 1 lb. bag.

POP, that's what comes to mind when I see that blue. WOW. looks really good Chris. Tim

Chris, I tip my hat to your never ending pursuit of true replication / perfection. I never would have thought about the color of the trans blanket to be honest. I'm especially jealous of the fact that I see paint and an air-brush in your post. It's 24 degrees here. UGH! And your tins look good too. Cheers, Tim

Thanks again Bob. Joe, when you say "fuzz" any chance you can PM me with a pic so I better understand what you're describing? I've never had an issue with Loctite after it's been applied. It does not dry clear although they have introduced some new CA glues that they claim dry clear. The applicator grabs only a small amount of glue at a time...a drop or so. The capilary action of the applicator applies just enough so it mostly flows below the weld and sets. If I get too much on, I just lightly dab the area on top of the weld to clean it up. The glue I show in the pic is very thin and flows readily. I tried earlier to post an edit update wherein I stated that I select the weld I want to apply of course, then sand it with a fine sanding stick. Wipe it clean with 91% alcolhol, allow to dry and then apply. Cheers guys!

Thanks Guys. Here's the Hobby Design metal welds glued on the intercooler pipes. There are a few tiny spots of superglue yet that I need to "scrape" off and then buff with my dremel wheel. You'll see them as discoloration around the weld itself. The camera misses NOTHING! Pics 3 and 4 relate to how I did them on the angled elbows. Cheers, Tim In this picture please note I used locking tweezers with electrical shrink tube on the tips to hold the weld securely while I apply the super glue with a MicroMark metal glue applicator. After 10 minutes, I remove the tweezer, snip off the excess weld and then apply a tiny amount of glue to the very ends of the weld. I held the ends down for a few minutes using a tooth pick but a rubber type of applicator would be better. Super glue tries to even grab onto the tooth pick. The next step is to use the back of an X-acto 11 blade and oh so carefully scrape any excess glue away from the weld. Then I use the dremel wheel in the 2nd pic set at the lowest speed possible to polish the entire pipe and the welds. Clean it all up with 91% isoprypl alcolhol to remove any fingerprints and dirt and set aside till final assembly. Tools used - Hope this helps anyone looking to use the welds in the future. They can be a bit challenging but hopefully this willl save you some time.

To everyone following and posting favorable comments.... i REALLY do appreciate your words and interest. Art, keep that brass midget going, I'm following it for sure. and Scott, you're very welcome on the drive shaft loop question. I'm spending too much time today putting welds on the inter pipes. My angles on the pipes make putting the welds on "challenging" as they're not simply round pipe but they have "sharp" edges if you will.....not my favorite thing to do I assure you. But they will be done by days end and I found a technique that is helping to speed it along a bit. I'll share the tip later when I post the results. Here's a couple picks of the bottle on the main hoop now. And cheers to all, Tim And from the back

Todd, nice nice start. I'll be sure to check it out as you progress. But 2 questions: a. Why are you building now when it's summer in Australia? and b. You do KNOW that your funny cage is on the "wrong" side? Cheers, Tim

Thanks Randy. So far as making nuts and bolts......that's where I draw the line even though some think I am "nuts"...... Tim

David, great photos of a great can and build. You can tell them to just mail you the trophy. Cheers, Tim

Sorry Joe if this is a double post...the trunk is sharp and I agree, I like the tri-power too. Cheers, Tim

Nice job on the trunk lid Joe. That tri-power WAS cool looking I agree. Cheers, Tim

Tim, thank you man for the wonderful comment(s). The build has been fun and rewarding I have to admit. Here's the air bottle bracket and the location it will be on the main hoop sandwiched between the intercooler and funny cage. I might anodize it purple. The bracket works like a real one and no glue will be used to secure the bottle. I have enough bolt on the backside to attach it to a bracket I have to make to secure it. Cheers! I made two of the brackets. The other one willl secure a fire bottle at the front of the chassis. I think I have about 8 to 10 hours making the brackets and re-doing the air bottle for what it's worth.

Thank you Joe...and you're correct in terms of my approach, it's the sum of the parts not the whole I'm after. Gene, the bezels are some tiny ModelCarGarage PE pieces that I have. The gauge decals were the hardest to find even though I have a large selection. They were off a Slixx sheet, but I can't say which one. I believe it was one of their modern Promod sheets. Hope that helps. BTW, the gauges themselves are alum. rod rounded and drilled to look like a gauge body. Cheers, Tim

Thanks guys for the glowing comments. It IS inspiring as I continue the build I assure you. Today a few pics of the new air bottle and the aluminum bracket (almost) that I machined on the mill. I posted a pic too of my drawing and notes to myself before beginning to make them. Comp1839 and the knowledge he shared has given the confidence to get on with it and try my hand at machining. I think I'm slowly getting the hang of it. Cheers, Tim The 4 little holes go all the way thru the piece. I'll slice the alumimun into 2 wafers (about 2mm thick) the tiny holes are size 70. I had less than .75mm on each side of the hole. Probably the tightest I've had yet. The bottle will insert into the large hole and then I'll bolt it to the main hoop bracket that I have to make yet. I hope this makes sense. I have to tap and thread the tiny holes to secure the 2 halves of the bracket together. I'll seperate each one down the middle of the bottle hole.

I LOVE the way you build Randy. You're a heck of a builder is all I can say. Cheers, Tim

Nice to see you back on track so quickly Chris. Looking SWEET! Cheers, Tim

Gene, Tom and Kerry, thanks again for following along on this project. Be patient, I said from the beginning I'm the worlds slowest builder. But I'm getting there. Jeremy, tell everyone I said "hi" at the shop...you do a great job for all hobbyists. And thank you for the kind sentiment. Cheers, Tim

Happy New Year Bill.....we're anxiously waiting for your next posts. hint hint. Cheers, Tim

Bob, VERY nice. This will be a fun build to follow along with. Thanks for sharing and good luck with the build. Cheers, Tim

I want to wish ALL of you a Happy New Year first and foremost. John (Mr. Teresi) ...a humble thank you for your comments. I hope you continue to follow the build and enjoy the good, bad and ugly as it progresses. Can't wait to see what you build next. Andy, Bob, Dave and Scott.....also a big thanks for your interest and favorable responses! Chris (Mooneyz) having followed your build, I would say there is nothing I have on you when it comes to "attention to detail". My only observation about building in larger scale is it's not easier as there is more you can see and do to a model when it is larger. Bigger means more work. I'm just trying to do things on this car that when I was a kid, I could only wish and imagine to even attempt. Keep going on your build and post some updates / pics soon!!! Joe, Jerry Lewis was one very funny guy and I can picture him acting the way you described him. Too funny. And thank you too. Gene, No, not a watchmaker. But I've always had a "builders" streak in me. Appreciate your following along as well.. Lastly, a special thank you to Comp1839 (Dave) for his help in answering my continuous stream of questions as I make headway. I'll post pics of my modified air bottle as he correctly stated that he thought it appeared to be too big. Which I suspected, but he pointed it out in the most professional of ways possible. A great builder and friend. Cheers to all! Tim