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6bblbird

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Everything posted by 6bblbird

  1. Every single one is a show piece!
  2. Very clean and simple! Nice! WF
  3. I have also found problems with CA glue on these kits. I have been using CA glue for a long time with good results until now. I've had difficulty using CA glue on the two Moebius '65 Plymouth kits that I've worked on. Small parts are no problem but I could not get the inner fenders and firewall to bond together. They just fell apart after the glue set up. What worked for me was 2 part epoxy. I also used a 2 part clear epoxy to secure the window glass as nothing else seemed to work. WF P.S. Make sure that you wash all of the plastic parts before painting!
  4. Great detail work under the hood. Good use of metallics. Those wheels look very nice on a Willys!
  5. Send me your snail mail address and I'll get it out to you. Message me at frey426@verizon.net. WF
  6. Great looking and well built machine!! Details such as driveshaft loops and flywheel shield are often forgotten but really help in making this a stand out build! WF
  7. 1964 Max Wedge car. Feb. '64 thru Apr. '64. Note twin hood scoop and fender well headers. 1964 A/FX car: Note the location of the front wheel. Rear wheels were also moved forward 4" 1964 Hemi Super Stock Automatic car: Same car that started the season with a wedge had Hemi power at the US Nationals. Note wide hood scoop.
  8. "What exhaust system did the Ramchargers run in their 64 Super Stock cars ?" It depends! It depends on whether you are talking about the 426 Max Wedge car, the A/FX car, or the 426 Hemi SS/A car. They ran all 3 combinations in 1964. The exhaust headers that are shown in the top photo are what came factory installed on the 1965 A990 (Hemi) cars. They are very similar to ( maybe the same as) the headers used on the NASCAR Grand National cars. They were quite heavy and not perfect for serious drag racing competition. Must have been a nightmare to remove the transmission pan. Unknown how many drag racers would have used them and for how long before replacing them with lighter units made by aftermarket companies. If you are building a Ramchargers Hemi car don't use these. Use the race headers from the Lindberg kit. If you are building a wedge car (They ran these from February '64 through April '64) use the Johan fender well headers. As far as building copies of the factory A990 headers, I tried for a year to make them for a "day one" A990 car. It was a huge frustration! You can now find them in the Moebius Melrose Missile kit. (much easier!)
  9. Another killer Mopar from Roger!
  10. That Chevelle is so hot, it made all the snow around it melt! Brings back memories for me. My next door neighbor bought one that looked just like yours. Within a week of purchasing the car new, he had the engine out and spread all over the driveway! My father just could not understand!
  11. 6bblbird

    '57 Chevy

    So nice! Great photos too! WF
  12. This is the beginning of a '65 A-990 car. The rear tires shown are supplied with the Moebius Melrose Missile kit. They seem to scale out to 9 inches which would not be accurate for one of these cars, but they do look good! I'm debating whether or not I should leave them or go with a skinnier pair. WF Just noticed the flash on the headers and I also left the lettering on the floor! Doh!
  13. Sounds to me like Jon was looking for some accurate, historical information. Some of the posters provided some great answers. One of the reasons why this is my favorite modeling site is that the talented builders that post here are very free with information, critiques , and modeling techniques. I have learned so much in the way of improving my skills from you guys! Thanks. P.S. Jon, I have a scoop for you. It has a straight back which would be appropriate for a '66 or '67 car. If you are building a '62 thru '65 you will need a scoop that has a curved back. I have one of those too. WF
  14. There were guys that would cut grooves in slicks to make them "legal" for the street. Nowadays you have to have that D.O.T. designation to be compliant.
  15. Love the concept! I still have to get a shiny, smooth paint job before I try something like this! (Might be a while.)
  16. Looks like a rare albino radiator!
  17. Great looking Mustang! Color looks spot on and I like the black paint on the wheels. You probably noticed the glass hanging down by now. Should be an easy fix. I always seem find my mistakes in photos. Can't find 'em with my eyes anymore!
  18. Excellent! Black looks killer! I've never had good luck with black paint. I'm envious of your work! WF
  19. Great color! Well built too! Only thing that looks "off" to me are the redline tires. I think that RWLs would transform the car but if you like 'em, that's fine! WF
  20. Extremely well done! My kind of build. Might I suggest a simple addition? Add a small windscreen (acetate) to that slot between the cowl and dash. You can tint it blue! WF
  21. A scale 7" cheater slick would measure .28" or 7.11mm. Anything wider than this would not be required to have the two grooves. "Cheater slicks" were only made in 7" widths for drag racing as they were required in NHRA stock classes up until 1972. The 2 grooves were required to satisfy the NHRA rule book. Many municipalities and states did not consider cheater slicks legal for street use! All Stock class cars including Super Stock and Super Stock Automatic were required to use 7" wide tires until 1967 when Super Stock cars could use any width slick that would fit in the stock wheel well. The Moebius Melrose Missile kit has some tires that a pretty close although they have no grooves. WF
  22. Well done! You did a good job trying to re-create those wheels. WF
  23. Oooooh! Love the hub cap detail! WF
  24. Not my friends car either! I found the pic on the internet as an example . I would like to build a 1:1 someday.
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