scalenut

any in Nashville area?

I wonder if a kilz or zinser type primer spray would work?

you have much more control with the airbrush, much less overspray , where the cans produce a cloud of paint rather quickly that's not very controllable

amazing scratch building ,After seeing what can be done, I will never complain about an ill fitting kit part again

great work Doc , speaking of stencils , Artool now puts out the mini series for large models and the nano series for 1/24 cars. they are shrinking their full size and adding more selections. http://www.iwata-med...artool_products

He also has a lot of "how to" vids on His youtube Channel http://www.youtube.c...nky666/featured

be careful of the pawn shops , I have seen many times the guitars were overpriced(most of the time), you can get a good cheap guitar at any music shop, if somethings wrong with it atleast you can take it back

I'm in

Rough guidelines of thinning ratio is 2:1-3:1 ( Tamiya Acrylic paint : thinner). that's using the x-20 thinner , For best results Tamiya suggests their Lacquer thinner. their "Acrylic" paint is actually an acrylic Lacquer but either thinners work well

Rikki Rocket of Poison fame builds and flys High Power Rockets (my other hobby)

hervorragende Arbeit !

ok ... I thought this was about wreckers as in tow trucks ..my bad still need to learn all the jargon

lol. there's a difference difference between a fraction 1/25 .....and a scale ratio 1:25, or 1=25, or 25=1 If more people at least start using the right symbol : (ratio) the model mathematics world will make more sense

post away ! ,, great job on the old junker, it deserves a nice dio for display

A rat wrecker is top on my list of round-tuits

you can do a search on "brake lines" it will pull up several good threads

If I'm spraying a part on a stick or stand , I'll usually go ahead and paint it all simply because it's in my hand and I'm spraying it. on bodys I will spray the whole inside(if it's a different color) and let it dry, than mask and spray the outside. I need to make a homebrew version of the Yost stick, I have lots of wood and dowels laying around

I'm with Doc , these shows are so contrived it's not even reality anymore .I read an interview with Paul Jr and he said that they would film weeks worth of footage just to slice together a few moments with the drama and facial expressions they wanted to portray. he said it wasn't even close to reality 90% of the time. strictly entertainment. he said they even had to change into the same clothes for weeks at a time for continuity in the editing

another great resource just scroll down the page http://www.ninfinger.org/models/models.html#tip_index

I peel it off before it drys, it lets the edge kind of blend down but its a bit more risky to handle this way

even with a set of tube-benders, certain tubing will only kink,split or ripple because it's too hard,, tube made for bending in a smooth tight radius is a specific manufactured type of tubing weather it be brass/copper/aluminum or steel. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXR811&P=FR

I saw one at Harbor freight yesterday ,I "think" it was priced around $60..I'll have to go back and get a closer look at it,

I used to practice on 2 liter bottles , I would scuff and prime them, or just try to work with the raw plastic . cardboard and paper are great for learning the trigger , but not the best surface to learn thinning and spray pressure...models are solid and don't absorb paint like paper products.

hopefully this trend won't catch on ,much like the "Whistle Tip" stupidity didn't