scalenut

must....resist....temptation.....I get lured in by sales and coupons and always end up spending way more than I intended...

some nice rides ! but yeah the music leaves a lot to be desired , I don't see what slavery has to do with custom cars

I won't lie I'm hard on my airbrushes ,,, but I'm getting better about it.

enjoying the build .keep er lit

here's the effect of windex and ammonia on my AB's over the years the bottom 2 were severely damaged by the ammonia cleaner , the second from bottom no longer has a colored handle. the paasche H(bottom) is quite tarnished. third from bottom , I quit using the ammonia and stuck to windex, after a few years of cleaning the cup the chrome is dulled and stripping down. the top AB has nothing but thinners and the createx cleaner used. These AB's have seen a lot of use over 8+ years and the results of using ammonia products shows clearly. obviously the internals are also effected. I've had the 2 middle AB's rebuilt by badger, because I didn't keep them lubed and they wore out prematurely ,most likely from the ammonia products. the good news is,they all work just not very shiny anymore.

Tip Dry-it's the nature of acrylics , like Doc, you can have a moist paper ,or moist q-tip handy, or simply pinch the tip with your finger. It becomes second nature after a while.a quick dab and keep going as others mentioned ,paint brand and additives make a difference in how frequent the tip will build up. I like the liquitex products and createx makes an excellent cleaner. be careful with pure ammonia, I stripped the chrome out of my AB using it and it ruined the outer chrome finish plus it drys the o-rings out..in that case an AB lube (like badger regdab) would be highly recommended.

nice score on the Dayton motor and blower !.. the magic range seems to be 200- 300 cfm for cross draft , closer to 200 cfm for downdraft. not sure if that's free air or under load adding reducers,90's, type of vent pipe,size of booth opening ,and filter type has a big effect on the actual outcome of course. I read that adding a simple 1" reduction in the vent pipe can reduce the cfm by 30%. looking good so far!

ok what is it ? ... 1/2" = a foot.... or........ 1/4" = a foot ...?

Thanks for the clarification Aaron , there is so much info to sift thru on the internet it's hard to know what's real and whats not accurate. And what pertains to hobby use I'm still not sure what blower to get for mine, I want it to be safe but not overkill.

This makes a good box stock kit, it makes you work for it. ... I have another to go all out with , I already have some ideas in mind for that.

let me know if you like the vids or prefer photo builds better. Thanks

yeah the acrylics do not like to be overthinned much, the apple barrel I've tried, I did not have very good luck with them . The pigment is so large it takes a lot of thinning to spray them well , problem is the pigment separates and sinks if thinned too much. I only tried some of the metallics so maybe the regular colors thin and spray better. with the 0.5 needle you can get away with a whole lot less thinning. keep playing with it,,, there is no one magic bullet thinning ratio that works for everything.

well...than what about paasche, badger,artograph,tcp global, hobby model,ect... hobby spray booths, they all say that in the fine print, yet there's a million out there. and "shaded pole" has nothing to do with "explosion proof" so Pace is not any safer most bath fans and range hood fans are shaded pole, it allows the speed to be adjusted with a rheostat (knob) and they are low cost. you pretty much have to step up to more industrial level offerings to get a spark proof system. they start out at $800-$1,000....those motors are expensive. I've been reading up on this for the last couple months, because I'm building my own booth also even the "explosion proof" motors are not exactly right,I found out that can simply mean that the motor is contained from explosions. the pace booths are very nice , and I imagine someone could adapt a different motor if it's absolutly necessary

what type/brand of paint are you spraying ? , if it's acrylics ,, too much thinning will water it down and it will run very easily. also the acrylics like to dry up a little between coats. it all depends on airbrush /pressure /paint/thinner ... the siphon feed eclipse has a 0.5 needle so you shouldn't have to thin the paint down quite that much..if at all

...be honest now .. did you really make that ?

John at the bottom of the thread on the left there is a row of icons , you can choose download ,print,email .ect.

these look very similar to vallejo , they use the same type of thinner (the milky acrylic resin type ) even the bottles look the same. I might order some monday to compare. if this is correct , I'm ordering a bottle of the thinner as one of the choices, it can't be duplicated with home brew recipes.

ahh ,, good to know thanks

good tip ! on a cool kit but what does "want to paint wheels black for tires" mean ? are the tires plastic in this kit?

too bad about the flooding but the bright side is you have a blank canvas to build the model room ! nice work so far

A lil henry J on the Bench

my weathering washes came in the mail today , I'm ready to play with them

another great option is the pigma micron pens ,a lot of the miniature builders use them . they go down to 0.2mm and come in a range of colors . you can get them at Michaels and hobby lobby. I used one on my last build for the panel lines and to repair some cracks in the black decal stripes. http://www.dickblick.com/products/sakura-pigma-micron-pen/

the createx cleaner is very good , plus it helps keep the a/b seal lubed . windex will eat the chrome internals over time and not recommended by any paint or airbrush manufacturer. as always take homebrew thinner/cleaner recommendations with caution In your precision Iwata