scalenut

..........I like the triangula

I built this model many years ago , it's a great kit. I put many weeks into it and just when I was almost finished putting decals on , I went to adjust my cheap swingarm lamp , the metal shade fell off and smashed the model... I was upset to say the least and swept it into the garbage can. I vowed to build it again one day If I can find one at a fair price great job !

bid what your willing to pay (taking shipping into consideration). not a penny more. It's that simple.

if it's parts they have, you send them the upc code from the box, and a scan of the sheet with the part circled. send that with the form on the website. http://round2models.com/replacement/

The company manufacturing the Wash Away for Weaver has to have one. If weaver/scalecoat is simply selling it to the consumer, it's not required for them to post one. There should be an MSDS, but it may be under a totally different name and manufacturer .. or it could even be a different known product rebottled and rebranded There is no listing for this specific brand in the MSDS database... and no ingredient list or warnings ?..kind of naughty since they are shipping this across state lines and possibly by air ! there has to be some form of documentation to do that..it is a paint stripper after all... .....hopefully that has been covered by now. sounds like a great product, I'm sure it's legit

taping off around it is a little extra insurance also

what's R&M ? I see that a lot

I've never used it my self , the finishes seem to hold up fine without it. I only do smaller parts , compared to using it on large surfaces like a body , in that case the sealer might be needed. as long as the sealer is compatible with the lacquer's it should work fine. Future is a good option

Hahaha not hardly , I use model master paints and metalizers a lot.. They are the main paint I use most of the time so I'm well used to them

the metalizers are real thin , no reduction necessary also spray at low pressure around 15 psi

I grind them off , even tho sometimes they are hidden ,,, just a habit I guess

from the website: MODEL MASTER TESTOR ENAMEL PAINT: Gloss; 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner. Flat; 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner, Air pressure setting should be around 20-25 PSI. Enamels require 48 hours for a full cure. Thinner: - all Enamel solvents

I prefer Plastruct ,you get more for the $ and I think the selection is greater as well

learn to build clean as possible ,, than start adding more customizing and detail as you progress. all the customizing in the world doesn't matter if it's all wonky and messy

I keep them out of reach, so they don't get mistaken for a toy..The grand kids are way too young to understand models.It's just shiny eye candy to them

from my post above... "over spray is a necessary evil of having to back away " so...yes it does

I think the testors higher end metallics spray strong like they do, so the metallic particles float into the paint rather than being globbed on with typical closer spraying.. I have found backing off the model produces an excellent finish with these vigorous sprays.gives the particles a chance to lay down properly takes a little adjustment but they can produce amazing finishes by just backing off... over spray is a necessary evil of having to back away from the model

lets see... excell medium reducer 30-40% METHYL ETHYL KETONE (78-93-3)[201-159-0] 15-25% PROPYLENE GLYCOL METHYL ETHER ACETATE (108-65-6) 15-25% LIGHT ALIPHATIC SOLVENT NAPHTHA (*64742-89-8) 10-20% TOLUENE (108-88-3) [203-625-9] 5-10% N-BUTYL ACETATE (123-86-4)[204-658-1] wow.... lacquer thinner is candy compared to this stuff be carefull bro

keeps my blood pressure down , relaxing, I enjoy the outcome, the sense of accomplishment...well as Martha says.."it's a good thing"

hey Bill , If I recall .. Duplicolor offers enamels and Lacquers in paints and I believe the Duplicolor white (sandable) primer is Lacquer... (the one i use is) Is it possible you had a miss match in paint types? just a shot in the dark because it's not very clear on the different cans ..what is what

do you mean money wise or worth having and building,, or using parts from ? "worth" is a relative term

The car Dwight Hendricks drives in the series is a 1964 Pontiac GTO, the car shown in the opening with Charlie "Whitehead" White getting out of the driver side is a 1967 Chevrolet Chevelle with an SS-396 hood but with a 283 small block emblem on the front fender [imdb] I have a 64 on the worktable , not sure what to do with it yet Nice job, Mrmike !

I sprayed some parts over gloss black and have them curing . The paint instantly covered the black , I don't think the black undercoat is making a difference. The duplicolor goes on solid, unlike the alclad I also covered a couple "chromed" parts with future, it knocked the gloss down , very slightly. after curing overnight ,I touched some Tamiya tape to the Future'd parts and it flaked right off. The chrome stayed intact. I'll post some pics later, I'm just playing around a bit. so far I don't see this as a replacement for alclad. I'll try the decanting idea tomorrow, I happen to have some testors enamel thinner on the way so I will try that, I also have some lacquer thinner I can use

thanks Don , I have some parts set aside , worth seeing see how it holds up after good cure.

Hi Ken , since specialty press have recently released the other classics like pat covert's,bill coulter's and terry jessee's work, could you speak to them or give the go ahead if necessary, to release your book(s) as well ? pre internet or not ...it's a classic and informative part of the hobby