64SS350

Well, I'll keep that in mind, but he asked for methods we use, and that's what I use. You have to sand either way.

I like to sand first. The amount of sanding depends on the body contours, not to take away from the body lines or shape too much from what it should be or leave too much as it would add to the original contours. Then I use thin CA as a filler, and resand, finishing with primer and sanding if needed. Also, I have found a few areas where the print was thin and/or stressed which caused cracking. So the CA helps add a strengthening layer for that situation as well as repair. Enjoy the process!

Has anyone verified the correct date? Facebook or not....a club representative should clarify this since printed material show two different dates.

Mail call today...

This is an after thought, but I had a club member (with an extensive collection) claim that storing kits near or touching an outside wall in the basement (yes it was heated) did strange things to kit chrome. I have since left an air space or puts kits without chrome near walls.

If you plan on doing several chassis in the future and don't mind spending a little money, a slot car jig may work for you. They are generally made from thick composite plastic, milled flat, and holes for multiple pins are CNC drilled. They are made for a variety of racing car types...from can am to F1 to multiple style drag cars. Looking back, I wish I would have kept mine. But making your own can also be satisfying and less inexpensive.

Got some time Sunday afternoon at the bench, small steps on multiple parts. I did decide to work on the headliner. I saw a YouTube tutorial on this process. I will play with some shadowing in the seam lines next.

Right, forgot about that, and I believe one guy said he even just put two blades side by side, the area that is sharpened creates a void or narrow width to cut with. I'll be checking into the fingernail tape though!

I believe this to the best option as well. What I have done to create thinner tape is to lay down a wider strip on my cutting mat, cut a new edge to achieve straightness, then slide my metal rule over to desired width and re-cut. The trick is maintaining a consistent width, but definitely do-able. My 2¢

Thanks for the kind words and following along. I have learned a lot from many on here. Trying to find time right now is tough, but it'll get there.

Realized how much I dislike molded in wiring, and decided...hey, you should remove that....(1st pic) I also wanted to add "extras" somehow. So I found some boards to start with and some Hemi power!

I kept this thread in my email for reference to new products. I use the two part glazing also. One thing I have found is it needs a good primer first, the putty attacks the plastic if you don't. I seal it with thin CA to prevent pop out later...as some will claim.

Oh, I didn't see that, it looks very nice! Man, I'm going to have to get a 3D printer! Thanks for sharing.

I guess first off you have to decide what level of quality you want to build at. If you just enjoy building kits with minimal paint prep, than no, it's not "necessary". Build and have fun! If you want better paint jobs, prep work is needed, ie; sanding mold lines and oddities in the plastic, filling voids or sink marks. Primer does a lot. If using hotter paints like lacquer, it puts a barrier between the plastic and the paint to prevent possibly melting it. Some fillers require primer first for the same reason. If a paint job goes poorly, primer makes it easier to strip the paint back off. It can act as a leveling agent when block sanding a body. As far as more coats to achieve a desired color, use different shades of primer....white, light grey, dark grey, red, black. Hope this helps, I'm sure others will chime in also! Happy building!

I'm not sure where you are located, (US or abroad) but this has a European style plug, which aren't necessarily expensive to buy, but ...Also check the voltage, I traded for one on here very similar and it was set up the same with 220 volt. I didn't have time nor desire to run extra wiring for it, so I just sold mine.

Forgot to add these items, while I picked up the Ford PU, I stopped at a local hobby shop. I like finding places while traveling.

In my experience, the areas that separated are places where things can "pool". Whether it be kit oils or soap from cleaning. Also the primer and paint, from pooling and reactivation, or lack of mixing, and.... sometimes just a bad bottle or can of paint. My two cents....

Picked up another Black Beauty and 1960 Ford PU at Hobby Lobby

Have a good time, I can't make it this year. Always a good time seeing everyone again!

"tooling" for bed rails( boy those blades look rough up close,lol) And since the grooves in the blade are slightly different, I reversed it and pulled across the styrene again, which seemed to even out the pattern.

When I need to make side molding and now bed rails, I use a one sided razor blade and cut the needed profile into the edge and then scrape along the length of some flat styrene matching the desired width of molding. The rivets or bolts are poked from the opposite side with something round and somewhat pointy. In this case it was the tip of a round file. I will try to load some pics later.

Did some test fitting of all that you see, a little tweaking was done here and there, but overall came together well...

Interior tub is finished, I may find some items to add to it before final assembly. Also working on the hood detail and engine bay area.

Little more on the interior, dash still needs some work.

You could check the craft stores in the.. beading section, use the holes for the rope many used for quick removal at ..go time! Also, if you are a hunter or know someone who loads their own shells, check the different sizes of buck and bird shot. My two cents....