64SS350

One step closer to my new paint booth...

Picked my truck up from the shop, and this beauty was sitting there....

The boat was an afterthought, I have to say....I believe it is the first small boat I've done!

That's a good idea, I have found that to be true, sometimes too late.

Coping saw

A method I found/saw and use.... find something around the house like a tall pill bottle, PVC pipe, heavy cardboard roll.... long enough to go across the entire body.Then wrap it with sand paper, works great. If some cutting is necessary at first, I'd use a Dremel with a 1/2" drum.

With all resin products, it's part of the acceptance that their could /will be some clean up, pin holes , sanding, fitting,etc. It all depends on the quality of the piece. They are not hard to work with, just some different processes and precautions are required. But, to be able to get a car or whatever, that has never been kitted, it can be an acceptable trade off.

The Revell kit is more detailed, I believe separate frame, opening trunk, etc. It is also an Impala SS, which means chrome and badge removal/change. Also the rooflines are different between an Impala and the Bel-Air, and usually only 4 rear lights/lenses vs 6 on the Impala. These are the major visible differences, not including drivetrain, motor, interior ,and other available options. There are resins out there with I believe two or four door options.

My advice is to try and use them up, and at minimum....store in a container of some sort. I have had several eat through the can seams and leak.....some profusely if not detected in time.

So here's the shadowing on the headliner, didn't turn out too bad(had a little slip of the pen on that one seam). Also some boat interior work done. The flooring and trailer stand offs are a lighter blue to represent carpeting. While the side vinyl matches the truck interior.

While creating these Flintstone Flyer cars, I had a ton of scratch building involved. This one element is very hard to see unless using a light through the side window. On the real car, he put a window in the firewall to have access to the magneto, since it was unreachable from the front. I even made the aluminum frame and added "plexi" later.

Well, I'll keep that in mind, but he asked for methods we use, and that's what I use. You have to sand either way.

I like to sand first. The amount of sanding depends on the body contours, not to take away from the body lines or shape too much from what it should be or leave too much as it would add to the original contours. Then I use thin CA as a filler, and resand, finishing with primer and sanding if needed. Also, I have found a few areas where the print was thin and/or stressed which caused cracking. So the CA helps add a strengthening layer for that situation as well as repair. Enjoy the process!

Has anyone verified the correct date? Facebook or not....a club representative should clarify this since printed material show two different dates.

Mail call today...

This is an after thought, but I had a club member (with an extensive collection) claim that storing kits near or touching an outside wall in the basement (yes it was heated) did strange things to kit chrome. I have since left an air space or puts kits without chrome near walls.

If you plan on doing several chassis in the future and don't mind spending a little money, a slot car jig may work for you. They are generally made from thick composite plastic, milled flat, and holes for multiple pins are CNC drilled. They are made for a variety of racing car types...from can am to F1 to multiple style drag cars. Looking back, I wish I would have kept mine. But making your own can also be satisfying and less inexpensive.

Got some time Sunday afternoon at the bench, small steps on multiple parts. I did decide to work on the headliner. I saw a YouTube tutorial on this process. I will play with some shadowing in the seam lines next.

Right, forgot about that, and I believe one guy said he even just put two blades side by side, the area that is sharpened creates a void or narrow width to cut with. I'll be checking into the fingernail tape though!

I believe this to the best option as well. What I have done to create thinner tape is to lay down a wider strip on my cutting mat, cut a new edge to achieve straightness, then slide my metal rule over to desired width and re-cut. The trick is maintaining a consistent width, but definitely do-able. My 2¢

Thanks for the kind words and following along. I have learned a lot from many on here. Trying to find time right now is tough, but it'll get there.

Realized how much I dislike molded in wiring, and decided...hey, you should remove that....(1st pic) I also wanted to add "extras" somehow. So I found some boards to start with and some Hemi power!

I kept this thread in my email for reference to new products. I use the two part glazing also. One thing I have found is it needs a good primer first, the putty attacks the plastic if you don't. I seal it with thin CA to prevent pop out later...as some will claim.

Oh, I didn't see that, it looks very nice! Man, I'm going to have to get a 3D printer! Thanks for sharing.

I guess first off you have to decide what level of quality you want to build at. If you just enjoy building kits with minimal paint prep, than no, it's not "necessary". Build and have fun! If you want better paint jobs, prep work is needed, ie; sanding mold lines and oddities in the plastic, filling voids or sink marks. Primer does a lot. If using hotter paints like lacquer, it puts a barrier between the plastic and the paint to prevent possibly melting it. Some fillers require primer first for the same reason. If a paint job goes poorly, primer makes it easier to strip the paint back off. It can act as a leveling agent when block sanding a body. As far as more coats to achieve a desired color, use different shades of primer....white, light grey, dark grey, red, black. Hope this helps, I'm sure others will chime in also! Happy building!