mrm

Your project looks killer. I love the paint. And if it works, more power to you. By the way, that Wagonrod kit is a cornucopia of great modern hot rodding parts and it is greatly under appreciated IMO. Same for their Phantom Vicky. I wish they did more kits like that.

Use 2K primer. It is available in most Autozones and it will solve all your problems once and for all You can shoot whatever you want over it. Another really cool thing is that putty will bond perfectly to it, but will never sag plastic, no matter how much you put on. Also it makes automotive bondo usable as it also bonds well to it.

I personally like the Impala roof way better. That squared up T-bird roof does not go in any way with the flowing lines of the car.

Looking good so far. I like that you color coded the brake drums. That's a cool touch.

DO IT! It's only plastic after all.

Off to the numerous small parts in carbon... This is the third brake light.

Slowly coming along. The accent color needs some minor touching up here and there and then it's off to the spray bench for clear coat.

Thank you David. Actually being this close to finishing it is nerve wrecking, because I am always afraid not to f-up something at the very end.

Some good info here. Thank you. I always wanted to build a badass 33/34, but never got around doing one. I have many started in various stages, but never managed to complete one.

Thank you gentlemen. I was trying to change the stock interior of the kit just enough to make it my own, while keeping it relatively simple.

I see now. My comment had nothing to do with the picture of the car with the ‘Stang roof. I was commenting your progress on the model. Perhaps I should start using the “quote “ button more often.

It's all good. I actually appreciate people expressing their opinions. I believe that truth is found in argument. I don't take it personal when someone disagrees with my point of view. I actually believe people should do express their opinion more openly without worry if they are going to hurt someone's feelings. Of course it would be nice if people were commenting more on the work I put on display, rather than my opinion about the right for a kit that I got a carburetor from. ? That's all in good humor of course.

Ver very possible. Would you give me a hint?

This thing is getting cooler and cooler. I really appreciate watching your work.

My wife and kids are about to fly off to Europe tomorrow, so my last couple of days have been rather hectic. However, I found time to tackle some more of the carbon fiber load, which was not small task. People ask me all the time how do I make the carbon seamless and how do I make the decals confirm to the curves of the parts. I find the process ratter simple, but very tedious and time consuming. It definitely can be testing. First I start by masking sections of the parts I need covered in decals. I use flat Tamiya masking tape (the widest roll) which gives me an idea where and how the decal will have curve. Once the entire area I will be covering is masked, I mark the direction of the weave I would like my decal to go in. I then remove all the separate pieces of mask in the reverse order I applied them. creating pieces that would be easier to fold. Then I transfer each template onto the decal sheet, matching the direction of the weave and apply each piece of decal in the same order I applied the initial masking tape pieces. After each piece is applied and placed in position, it gets a good amount of Micro Sol brushed on. This is followed by drying it with a hot blow-dryer, while periodically brushing the decal down, until it conforms to the part. I usually like to clear coat carbon decals, as it makes the pattern pop. In this case I liked the texture without any clear, so I left it alone. and just like that, my door are finally done, plaid certs, carbon speakers, aluminum pieces and all... This kit is notoriously difficult to make everything fit properly on. I tried something I came up with while test fitting everything. After I glued the driver's door inner panel to the outer shell the fit was far from perfect as the interior panel did not align perfect with the door opening. So what I did was that I placed the interior panel in the opening, where it was held by the magnets I installed and then applied glue to the contact areas. Then I I lined up the door with the hinges on the roof and the windshield and closed it over the interior panel. This way the inner door panel got glued to the outer shell exactly where it caused minimal interference with the monocoque. Now it operates great, showing off that wild interior. I guess I didn't have enough torture in one seating and decided to go through the same process on the entire underside of the hood. It is looking good though... The rear hood has another center piece with a window that also needs to be covered in carbon and then the entire underside will receive some clear coat, plus some other details. Then the tail light clusters need to be covered in carbon, which will be complicated to say the least. Then comes the turn of the front hood. So that's the plan for tonight. Thanks for looking and stay tuned...

Meanwhile... The interior was sprayed with Tamiya USAF Olive Drab. The dash and the upper trim of the interior panels were painted with the Wallmart issue Rsto-Leum Mint color. The outlined panels in the seats were sprayed with Tamiya Anodized Green (their RC lexan body paint) Those accent panels were then covered with some Scalemotorsport upholstery pattern decals. This kills some of the shine of the metallic green and adds cool texture detail. I am happy with how everything works together. I just need to figure out the carpeting and to detail the dash. Thanks for looking and stay tuned...

That's a ratter harsh stand to take. You have your opinion and I respect your right to express it. Same way I have my opinion and I have the right to have a different opinion than yours. Ad I am not forcing it on anyone. Merely expressing my point of view and explaining why I feel the way I do about Foose taking ownership of some of Boyd's creations.

Now, back on topic. My usual preferred method of masking - Farious Tamiya tape for general masking and BMF for the finer stuff.

That’s an argument that can go on and on. The fact is that the car was commissioned at Boyd’s, Build by Boyd’s and delivered by Boyd’s under Boyd’s brand, which at the time was a publicly traded company-unprecedented for a hot rod builder. And at that time it would have never materialized if not for Boyd’s. Foose was just one of the employees at Boyd’s and the design for the Eldorod was commissioned, paid for and therefore owned by Boyd. Larry Ericson (spelling?) also designed quite few cars for Boyd. And Li’l John Buttera was also instrumental in the creation of many of Boyd’s chassis. But I don’t see either one of them entering Boyd built cars in shows or getting lucrative colab deals under their own name and doing it only after Boyd’s death. We all had posters of Lambos and Ferraris on our wall, but I’m yet to see one reading Pininfarina Testarossa or Bertone Countach, after Enzo or Ferucio died. Altho they didn’t even “holler at the workers to hurry up every couple of days” and every one knows who designed those cars. Those studios also made their own cars, often based on Ferraris and Lambos or whatever, but not commissioned by those brands. And they, rightfully so, presented them at car shows and sold them as their own. What Foose is doing is capitalizing on projects that he was just a part of and could have never created by himself at the time, let alone market them and claiming them as his own. He did the same thing with two other Boyd’s cars. I love Foose’ work and admire his talent, which is undeniably off the charts. But that’s no excuse for his antics.

Most of my day was spent with family today, but I still got to do few tricky stuff. I wanted to use the new Revell Roadster fire wall. Well, let's say that most of the parts in that kit are not directly interchangeable with the rest of the '32 kits. The top hood is wider than the cowl of the Tudor Sedan and just looks awkward on that body. It is also much thinner (which is actually nice). This necessitates the use of the stock hood from the Tudor kit. That hood however does not fit on top of the stock firewall from the roadster kit. The other issue with the firewall is that if does not meet the floor board where it should. So, I pulled a trick from 1:1 rodding and doubled the firewall. I glued the one from the roadster on top of the one from the Sedan and then sanded the difference, so the contour matched the intended shape for the sedan. Now I have a true double firewall to hide all electronics, cables etc.. LOL I also primed the engine and put some BMF over the valve covers, which is part of something new I want to try. The interior got most of my time today. I scribed lines where I wanted to create a new "panel" and then glued wire in the groove. The picture is before primer. I usually use Tamiya spray can grey primer. This time I used the Mr.Surfacer tuff and can confidently say that Tamiya still is the best. A lot more paint to come tomorrow...

Very nice work. Looks better this way.

Ditto. These Ala Kart wheels and tires are much skinnier than anything that comes in any of the Revell ‘32 kits. So O may actually use the buick drum brakes from the ‘29/‘31 kits, which will totally backdate this rod.

I am not happy with the hoods and the grille, so they are going to be be redone. The side hoods are going to come from the Sedan, but the firewall, top hood and the grille are going to come from the recently reissued Revell '32 Roadster. I like its grille shell better, because it has the Ford emblem and cap molded into it.

The wheels are turning into a project of their own. To get hub caps that small, I had to ruin a set of the chromed wire wheels from the Tudor Sedan kit. Cutting the centers out and then sanding them in a cone shape, so they drop in the centers of the artillery wheels is rather tedious process. But it will look cool... So, the rear wheels are made of total of five pieces each and the front are four pieces each. To make this wheel/tire set the total parts list is: - 4 rear inner wheel halves from the original Revell '32 Roadster. Two rims for the outside and two rims for the inside of the wheel in order to bring them to proper width. Also the deeper hubs from the rear were used on all four artillery centers in order for the fronts to have proper offset and come out in the fenders. - 2 front inner wheel halves to bring the front artillery wheels up to proper width. - 4 outer wheel halves from the Revell '32 Tudor Sedan for the center caps - 4 3D printed artillery wheels (sorry, I don't have the vendor) - 4 tires that come in the original Revell '32 Roadster. So far I think parts from seven or eight kits have been used plus some aftermarket will be involved. The black bits are Tamiya Gloss Black. The two greens are Rsusto-Leum Spray paint through my airbrush. Everything is 2K clear coated. Or it will be painted this way if it hasn't already. Thanks for looking and stay tuned...

Getting there ?