mrm

Thank you. I greatly appreciate it. Funny thing is that after I posted the request as a read the thread one more time, I ordered a copy of the kit from Amazon and it arrived today, before I saw your post. This reissue is such a contradiction for me. I love to hate it and I hate to love it. I am supper happy they did it and I commend Revell for reissuing it, especially with the roadster wheels in it, but I am still somehow disappointed in it.

Hi all. Last year at Heartland nationals in June there was a vendor at the show. A pretty nice chatty young man with a hat, right next to the Fireball table. He was selling some great 3D/Resin wheels and some were even available chromed. Had some pretty cool engines too. Most of his stuff sold out like right away. Can someone tell me what the name of the company was? Website? Contact info? Any help would be appreciated. It's the guy with the hat on the picture and his parts are circled. Thanks in advance.

Thats a rather unusual set up. I believe the Tudor from your picture uses friction shocks that are parallel to the frame horns. Like these:

What I meant was what steering you're going to use? Like the steering box and linkage that connects the steering wheel to the front wheels. The Tudor Sedan on your picture does not have tubular shocks visible, because it uses friction shocks mounted on the side of the rails.

Looks really great. In my opinion these wheels just take the build to a whole different level. I just can't figure out your suspension set up. I don't see any shocks front or aft. Also curious to see how you are going to address the steering. The chop, the stance, the hopped up motor...everything is just right.

Pretty interesting concept. What kit did the wheels come from?

And here is that same IRS from the T Touring adopted to the AMT Phantom Vicky frame.

To this day, probably the best fully independent hot rod chassis is the one in the Touring, which is almost oldies I am. It blows my mind that over the years no manufacturer ever made a decent fully independent hot rod chassis like this. And no, the Boyd's Smoothster and Eldorod don't count with their stock C4 Corvette rears.

You can get a proper IRS from shapeways. May need a little mod to fit under there, But nothing You can't handle I'm sure. The Tudor Sedan is by far my favorite body style of all Deuces. So I'll be following this one.

Thanks for the invaluable advice. I have plenty of 3D printed rear ends and my fair share of donor kits. And I am still going to buy a couple of these kits. The difference is that if Revell had put the aforementioned items in it, I would be buying a half dozen of them and not just a couple. My preferences or yours aside, please humor me why should I buy one of these kits if I have to buy/source the rear end, the front axle, the brakes and chop it myself, when I can just get an aftermarket body that's already chopped and mate it to any Revell '32 kit, which besides everyone having some, you can buy for $10? I seriously don't follow the logic behind a lot of these reissues. these companies are all about profit and growth, no? Then every time you reissue a kit, introduce a new unique part in it. I think they got it almost perfect with the 32 Roadster. Reissued it as the Rat Roaster and then followed it with the current edition. The Rat Roaster introduced new wheels/tires, new windshield, new motor with unique setup and a whole new interior. The current edition introduced a Duval windshield, cool new exhaust and some cool interior options. Why can't they do the same with the rest of the 32s. The Dan Fink Speedwagon needs a Vicky Body with new "glass", new set of wheels for the big'n little tires from the original roadster/new sedan with a little more dropped I beam axle and a plated quickchange rear and every guy who builds street rods would go for a case of that kit. I think their reissues would be considerably more successful if they at least offer brand new wheels every time. Because let's face it, there is no shortage of any of the Revell 32 fords in any of their release forms. So why would I spend $30 on something I can easily find for half that if it doesn't offer me anything new?

Can someone show the decal sheet please? Pretty much every single other part in it I am more than familiar with. And I can not believe that yet again, we are having the boring standard 9" rear end and the same stupid tubular front axle. I mean seriously, how hard would it be at some point during the last 30 years to have offered a quickchange rear and an I-beam? ?

I have not shafted anyone. I had to drop everything and literally fly over over to Europe on a family emergency. I just got back this past weekend and first thing I did was to send the tires over. You should have them any day now.

Very interesting project. There have been quite few 308/328 restomods in 1/1 lately. Few of them were featured in Forza Magazine. I believe someone stuffed an F40 motor sideways in one and there was one with a 360 Modena V8 in it. I can't wait to see what you make of it, as I believe you're off to a very good start.

Nice start. Just FYI, the Dino did not have a frunk. Yes there is the compartment with the spare in the front, but the car actually had a normal decent size trunk, in the rear, behind the engine compartment. It opened on it's own too. Same goes for the all the 308 models, but with them the compartment accessible under the same hood as the engine. Lamborghini Countaches also had a trunk with its own lid behind the engine compartment. Looking at what you have done to the front compartment, seems really easy to add the brake lines to the booster, which will add great detail.

In your particular case, you would be doing yourself a huge favor by using the grey Tamiya primer. Trust me on that one. Dries completely different, hardens differently, sand differently and seals completely differently. If I was using yellow Tamiya paint, then I would spray a thin coat of white primer ON TOP of the grey one, just to make the color pop. But in your case it is unnecessary. Thank you for the Ascona recommendation. Never even heard of any kit of any Ascona ever been made. Ours was a four door and I believe the next generation after the one you sent a link to, so no go. But still, thank you for looking it up. And "a professional model builder told me..." always makes me chuckle. A very well known "professional model builder", who made a small fortune painting model bodies for few different crowds, once publicly claimed that you can't use 2K clear on plastic models or over acrilics because it would eat them. And everyone who has ever used 2K clear knows that's not true. I spend 5 years making a living building replicas of rich people's 1:1 exotic car collections. I still could never bring myself saying that I was a professional model builder without laughing. No. I just found a way to make money from my hobby for a while. And then I got burned out and didn't want to see a model for quite a while. But anyway... I understand the challenges this model poses and now I am even more curious to see how it will turn out. Sounds like a lot of precision masking would need to be involved.

This is something different on here for sure. And very cool to see. Few things puzzle me in your comments and maybe I am not understanding/missing something. First, what is the problem with assembling the body and making it one whole part, just like in any other kit. And if that is your intention, why would that create any issues with painting it? The other part involves the paints you are contemplating using. I would take Tamiya paint over Rust-Oleum any given day, any time. The only reason I would ever use Rust-Oleum paint is if it gives me a given color readily available. It seems you are going with the Tamiya color, as you say it suits your better. Than why in the blue heavens would you not go with Tamiya Primer. The Tamiya grey primer comes second to none in the hobby. It is amazing stuff, which especially in your project size, you can shoot straight from the can with amazing results. Most of the time it would hold up to most automotive paint, but that is irrelevant, as you are using Tamiya paint. Now having said that, I am talking about their grey primer, not the "fine" white one, which I hate with a passion. Anyway, great project and a very cool back story. I wish I could build a model of the car my dad thought me no and I drove on the day I got my license. But nobody makes a kit of an Opel Ascona.

Holly Molly! That fuel tank is a model by itself. I truly enjoy your work and will definitely follow.

I can get you the tires, no problem. I am just wondering, why four? If you have the idea to use them at the front too, they would just not look right IMO.

Thanks for the photos. It was a really cool show last year and I really wanted to go last weekend, but I had a conflict of schedules, so I couldn't make it. Looks like there were some great models on display. P.S. And just to add - you must have really, really liked that blue Pontiac. ?

Looking good. I have a couple of these pick ups, but the previous release of the kit. I've been meaning to get one done. However, I've made a promise - no new projects before the ones posted as started on here get complete. So, meanwhile I will follow and enjoy what you do with this kit. The engine looks fantastic by the way.

Thank you Jason. My Huayra was the very first Aoshima kit I built. A lot learned from that experience. Some of their kits can be quite intimidating and the Huayra is the perfect example. In the particular case of Pagani cars, this feeling is even stronger, since a lot of people don't even know what these cars are. But these are some great kits, with great detail, which can be turned into jewels with some effort. I say get yourself one of these and build along. ?

My biggest gripe with this kit, which is more like puzzlement, are the doors. They are pretty much a simple two part deal - inner and outer skins. They are molded as separate pieces, but there is not even a mention how to attach them. Even if you would like to glue them open, which I guess is the option the kit is giving you, there is no mention on how to do that. No attachment points, no locator pins or marks of any sort. I have always been a firm believer that sometimes even the most complicated problems can have a simple solution. So I set to make the doors functional while my engine cover paint is curing. After some research, I noticed how the Zondas door rotates in a cool way into the wheel opening and a light went on in my head. A simple pivot hinge just like on the pivot doors in those multimillion dollar homes they show on TV. So I drilled into the floor plate, right where I thought my pivot point should be. A piece of music wire (available in any Hobby Lobby) was treaded in a piece of aluminum tubing (also from HL). Now, because the hole I drilled to locate the music wire was right at the corner of the monocoque, it had to be enlarged for the aluminum tubing with a bead reamer from the same store. Then the "hinge" bottom half was inserted in the hole and into position. Once happy with its angles it was superglued in place... ...and trimmed to length. Next, another piece of tubing was cut to size... ...and inserted over the wire, effectively becoming the "upper hinge". In order for the upper tubing to make better contact with the door, some material had to be grind off to make the surface less curved on the inside of the door. In order to make sure that everything would line up perfectly when assembled, I had to line up all the body pieces and hold everything together in place with masking tape, before I could glue the door. Then, when I made sure everything works together as it should, I taped the door and glued it to the upper tubing with superglue. So far everything works together perfect. It still needs a little bit of sanding and finagling here and there to make it 100%, but I am more than happy with the initial result. Here you can kinda see how the door opens on the real thing. It kinda swivels into the wheel well. I think I replicated that effect pretty well. Both doors are now functional. And line up pretty darn good. I'm happy. Tomorrow back to the engine. I did not clear coat it, because I want to do all the carbon fiber on the cover, apply the emblems and then I'll clear it and seal everything all together. Also i have to figure how to hinge the rear hood, so I can actually start prepping for paint. hanks for looking and stay tuned...

Well, first of all, let me say that I hope by posting my progress on here I could motivate more people to built this kit. Because I know there are quite few people out there that have one, but for one reason or another never build them. The other "version" of the kit is the Zonda F, which is by all means is a completely different car. Other than the monocoque, I believe every other part on the real car and on that kit is different from the Zonda S (which I'm building). Then came the Huayra, which I finished just a couple of weeks back. Then there is the Huayra Pachetto Tempesta, which is just Aoshima milking their Huayra kit, as it has just different wheels, front spliter and two additional pieces for the diffuser.

I couldn't (or rather I didn't want to) go much further with the engine before painting the cover. That part has been seen on cars in different variations. From all silver to all carbon fiber. Most often it is either silver with carbon on each side... ...or all carbon: in some rare occasions however, customers asked for the center section to be color matched to the body color of their car. This last option is what I would've been going for, had I the means to order one of these exotic beasts. I would love me some color on my engine. So I had some painting to do, before I could move forward. A lot more work that what it sounds. Here I will open the can of worms labeled "What Should or Should NOT Be Used on Plastic Model Kits", just a little bit. I love using automotive paint, which is definitely NOT meant for plastic model kits. Being designed for real cars it has properties that would give it qualities necessary for both the scale of projects and the necessary durability. In this case It is even more complicated, because it is an original Ferrari tri-coat. It is called Giallo Modena Triplo Strati Pearl. When I got it some years ago, it was impossible to get the code for it and even my local Ferrari dealership could not get it. It happened so, that the owner of my local PPG Automotive store had a very close relationship with some big wig, who made a call and got him the formulae, so he could mix me half a pint from each of the two colors necessary to achieve the finish. On the real Ferraris this was sometimes a $90 000 option. I got mine for $50. Not bad for a full pint of special paint. Our days I see this color offered by some companies (I'm not gonna mention names) who made a business of selling "exact match" colors, which are nothing more than the paint any reputable automotive paint store can mix for you, then thinned down and repackaged in 2oz bottles. Anywhooo... For the PPG paint not to eat the plastic of the kit, I had to prime it first. Just like you would have to do with any of those cottage industry "model" paints. I have watched countless videos and debates on how this paint or that paint interacted with the plastic of this manufacturer or that manufacturer. And I am tired of listening how when it worked out, I just "got lucky" or whatever. The solution is more time consuming and a little bit more labor intensive, but works without an issue. Every single time, 100% success rate. I use automotive 2K grey primer. It mixes 4:1 with the exact same fast activator I use for the 2K clear coat I buy. For $40 you get pretty much a lifetime supply of primer that would seal against anything. But about all that, maybe later on, when I paint the body. So: a coat of 2K primer (not fun to clean your airbrush afterwords) > base coat of white > first stage of the yellow > second stage of the yellow, which is like an opaque pearl > clear coat (not done that yet). While the engine had to have some primer on it, I figured out "why not put some primer on most of the body parts too?" Here I went completely against the grain in many different ways. First, I assembled a lot of parts completely out of order. I glued the interior tub to the chassis plate, then the side lower body panels to the interior tub, because on the real car that is all a one piece monocoque. I did not want the seams between the parts visible on the finished model and I wanted everything to line up properly and be very well secured, without the potential to make a mess. This kit is notorious (according to some it goes for most if not all Aoshima kits) with fitment issues and people complain that it is impossible to assemble it with a good fit where everything lines up properly. That is strange, because when first dryfitting the kit, everything lines up perfect. So I glued the rear bumper assembly, the rear grille and monocoque to the chassis plate to assure that everything aligns the way it should. Then I did another crazy thing. I sprayed some of the interior color on, before anything else. Main reason is that I love using another great automotive product, not meant for model cars. SEM interior paint. This stuff is amazing. It comes in an endless assortment of colors and it is designed to spray over your interior panels to change their color. So it will stick and hold to pretty much anything. And it will have the perfect leather/vinyl finish and shine. Here is the tricky part. It does not like other paint. This is the only paint I have ever seen attack 2K clear coat! Funny enough, it does not attack or craze plastic. But it will handle pretty much any paint over it. So, I spray it straight on the plastic, before any other primer or paint. This is why some of the areas I needed tan leather, were painted very first thing. I would not recommend doing it this way, unless you are very confident in your masking skills. After my tan parts were masked off, my chassis base was sprayed with the 2K primer. It was sandable in two hours.

Thanks guys. I will take it easy on this one, without rushing. one step at a time. I have given myself a deadline of my birthday, which is in November. Also made a promise of no new projects, before the ones started on here have been completed.