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mrm

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Everything posted by mrm

  1. +1 Something new every day. The roof on the Caddy is blinding.
  2. Nice paint. Actually there was a 599 Ferrari painted in very similar color that Ferrari used to introduce their "green" HI-KERS system, which is basically a hybrid. It had no green inside, but it is always nice to spice things up a little.
  3. Donald and Ron, thanks guys. This was supposed to be a simple build just for fun to exercise an idea. But it got a life of his own now. I have been thinking paint for the last three days, but I can't do it, until all the parts that need to be painted are ready. So I started on the hoods. I have made Deuce models in the past where I glued the side hood on and left the top one loose. Or I had the side hoods glued to the top one so they could be taken off together. The last detailed Deuce I made had custom hoods that were all left loose and they just fitted on and held up pretty good. However here the situation is a little different. The hoods need to be on for the model to look right. But then it would be nice to see the engine. So the solution was to hinge the top hood and to make the side hoods detachable. But then I wanted to have everything look really clean with or without the side hoods. So I knew I needed a "frame". 1:1 rods have it too for the same reasons. So I made a piece from 0.80 x 0.80 square rod for the driver side. This also connects the grille to the firewall without the use of the center rod provided in the kit. Keeps things cleaner and stronger. This gives a mounting place for the side hoods and as it sits right on their upper edge, it is almost invisible with the side hood on. It also gives a resting surface for the top hood when the side hood is off, but is also is invisible, as it blends with the top hood. Now, on the other side things get interesting. To make things look even, I made the hinge from the thinnest aluminum hollow rod that I know of, which is 0.50 with brassrod inside that feels like a hair, but it is stiff enough when short. The hinge was then glued to a 0.40 x 0.40 square rod. So when painted both sides of the frame are going to look the same size with only 0.10 difference. When mounted, the hinge is under the plastic rod, which when painted will look like just one piece. When the side hood is on it is absolutely invisible. The cool part is that without the side hood it is also almost invisible, as it blends with the top hood Even when the hood is open without side hood it is still pretty invisible. And it still provides a mounting point for the side hood. To make the hinges as out of site as possible, I had to put them at the very ends on the hood, but the front interferes with the radiator. and the rear with the firewall, so they had to go under weird angles. I don't like visible hinges anyway, but this was just one more reason to do something cool with the hood to hide the hinges. So I made a support brace with some holes in it. I think it will look cool once everything is evened, sanded and painted. Thanks for looking
  4. Thank you guys. Just like with the Alumacoupe, I am waiting to do the clear coats on three models together.
  5. mrm

    Alumacoupe

    I am sorry I don't have progress shots on this, but I am waiting to clear coat it together with two other models. I try to have as little time around polyurethane as possible.
  6. Thank you guys. William, this is good to know. I had no idea the Koenig Countach was available in 1:24. And fully detailed, non the less. I definitely need to find me one.
  7. Stan , Vince, Thank you both. Today - some of my favorite: Interior work. Everything is kept rather simple. It is a hearse after all. The very dark red is actually automotive interior die by SEM and it looks and feels like leather. The color is NAPA. Everything else is black. However there are parts in gloss, semi-gloss and flat black. Black flocking on the floor and a pair of simple photoetched pedals, which match the center of the steering wheel. The dash is semi-gloss black, the steering column gloss black and the steering wheel flat black. This way everything "separates" under the limited lighting in the finished model. Gauge panel is etched with black faces with red numerals. Steering wheel spokes and dash vents are also etched. I also added an AC control panel under the dash, which is……….black. To spice things up a little, I cut a little piece of 1mm sheet styrene and wrapped it in very thin piece styrene to form a book. I filed roughly its edges to give it a slightly used look. The cover received semi-gloss black and the pages got a mix of gold and white for a fancy-but-used look. A gold cross on the cover and gloss letters made it THE Book. Now the driver can really claim "God is my co-pilot", which I have seen on quite a few bumper stickers. Now I just need to touch up the seats and finish my headliner and I can turn my full attention to finishing the body.
  8. Really nice color and I like how the stripes came out. Those brakes look really cool too. Where did you get them from? I know you said Dirt Modeler, but I am not familiar with that. Is that an aftermarket co?
  9. mrm

    59 BUICK

    I absolutely love this model. Amazing paintjob and it just projects certain attitude.
  10. I have never built a single Street Machine or Pro Street model in my life but watching your progress makes me want to give it a try. Nothing like all that rubber under there behind.
  11. This is starting to take a great shape Lanny. I have to admit, that when the thread was first started, I was kinda pessimistic about this project, but now I see it going in great direction. Can't wait to see it finished.
  12. Thank you guys. Russel, Rosso Fuoco is a Ferrari color, which on the real car is about $40 000 option It is a tri-coat, so you need good primer, base coat, mid coat and then good clear. Most good paint shops should be able to pull a PPG code in their systems and mix you some. Now to today's work. Photoetched …..wel, everything My eyes hurt, my back hurts, my fingers hurt and I am without nerves after doing this on my dining table while my two kids played hockey in my living room and fought all the time. After this setup for the wires, the headers are going to be a nightmare, as there is not much space, but I'll fight that battle tomorrow. Such a shame some of all this will be burried and not seen, like the cool drilled bracket for the ignition coil, which I made out of spare wire loom with 8 holes that I had from no idea where. I color coded pretty much everything. Trying to keep the chrome to a minimum. The brackets for the alternator and the ACcomp killed me. First drilling the tiny holes in the block and then fitting in them miniature pieces of wire that the brackets are mounted on. I feel like I need new glasses. Thanks for looking.
  13. I hate when this happens. Good luck with the repairs. Chassis and engine look great.
  14. The interior is amazing. Very cool. If you don't mind me asking, what is the name of the sheet styrene you are using for the interior panels? TIA
  15. Here are the parts after the Rosso Fuoco midcoat. The rear end after the masking has been removed Some of the engine accessories received the same paint treatment
  16. Getting closer. I fixed the rear axle and radius rods together, prior to painting. The chrome stuff is going to be masked. Also needed to make a longer drive shaft, since the chassis is now longer. Everything fits aaaaaannnddd…..off to be painted. I sprayed the drivetrain in a mix of the Rosso Fuoco base and gold and it will be all covered by the Rosso Fuoco mid coat. The cab needed to be slightly extended beneath the "wood" to give it a more finished look.
  17. The Stanley Cup playoffs are slowing our progress, but we are almost there. This is what it looks like right now. It needs to have the steering wheel painted, the "headlights" painted and the tail lights painted and mounted, plus a couple of chrome handles. I'll do the masking on the front lights and I'll let Ryan paint them. We are on the home stretch now.
  18. mrm

    Volksrod

    Very nice! I've been wanting to build a real one for few years now, but my wife does not give the approval.
  19. Ok, so my lack of patience got the better of me. An hour and a half after I sprayed the poly primer, I decided to spray the base coat for the Rosso Fuoco. This wasn't that great of a deal, because the primer was pretty well set. The fact that I got too lazy to sand the primer did not help however. This is the base coat Then I decided that instead of waiting the minimum of 2 hours, I could just clean my airbrush and spray the second coat. This is what it looked like this morning in the sun. It is an OK color, but not what it was supposed to be and the finish was horrible. Everything was perfectly dry but not smooth. To clear coat this and then polish it to be perfect it would have taken so much clear that it would have washed out all panel lines. So I sanded everything smooth and now I am going to do it the way I should have the first time.
  20. Thanks for the interest guys. Here is the plan…. The chassis from the kit with the small block Ford from the kit. However, I would like to have a quickchange rear axle of some sorts, but may stay with the axle from the kit. The front tube axle has to go. This will be a dropped I-beam for sure and it may be painted black - not decided yet. Split wishbones if painted, the 5 window's hairpins if left shiny. Disc brakes will be on, which limits the wheels. So either steelies or the wheels from the Rat Roaster. Kit tires go straight to the junk pile. The motor will be the modern mill, but with different valve covers and different intake set up. If I get really excited I may order artilery wheels and finned drums from RMcoM. This rod with not be slammed into the weeds, it will not be channeled at all and will be shiny, but sorta vintage color.
  21. Thanks for all the interest guys. It's really appreciated. I am starting on the engine today. Tonight the body will most likely get sanded and receive first coat of paint. The "metal" on the body will be deep shiny black. The "wood framing" will be semi gloss black and the incerts flat black. This should make things "pop" on an all black model. Thr way I see it, white walls are a must, but I can't make up my mind on the wheels. They will be painted black with just a little chrome accents. I can't decide between the spokes from the Tudor or the steelies from the 5 window. Also not sure on the grille. Leave it all chrome or paint the incert black with just a chrome frame. Any sugdestions are welcome
  22. I ahve not done anything new to the model, because I am still scratching my head what to do with the front suspension. I want a traditional looking front axle, but to be as trick as the rear end. The problem I am running into is that everything that comes to mind involves inboard shocks and I don't have the space. I can scratch build an IFS, but it would be too ordinary. Any ideas are welcome.
  23. After fighting pinholes in the putty, ghost lines in joints and cheap automotive black primer, I just gave in and finally soaked the roof and the running boards (trouble areas) in polyurethane primer. It is curing as we speak, but tomorrow will be sanded and hopefully, ready for some paint. I am also working on a headliner for the cab. Will post pictures tomorrow.
  24. Thank you guys. I would like to put together all the Koenigs, or at least the famous ones. The 928 I am working now and it should be done within a week. I had the convertible testarossa, but it got destroyed in my house ordeal, so I'll have to get a new one. Then there is a Porsche 911 and a Mercedes Benz SL500. That's what is made in 1:24 that I know of. The Ferrari 512BBi is only in 1:16 and so is the Lamborghini Countach. The one I want the most, no one ever made into a model i any scale from any material - the BMW 850. That thing had a monster twin turbo V12. The Sultan of Brunei had at least one, which last I knew was for sale.
  25. Slight change of plans. No nail polish monkey business. This baby will be a Ferrari tri-coat Rosso Fuoco.
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