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Thank you. Imagine kinda the Rat Roaster style of build but with next to no chrome and modern drivetrain with a vintage look. And I am keeping it all Ford. No metallic colors either.

Another project I started today is a 32 Tudor, that I want to be built to look like a traditional Street Rod, but be somewhat modern underneath. First matter of business was chopping the top. Not much, but just enough to give it some attitude (about 3mm)

Willy Koenig was one of the pioneers of tuning and thinkering with really high end cars as early as the '80s. Ferrari, Jaguar, Lamborghini, Porsche, BMW, Mercedes Benz….. His creations were celebrated by some and frowned upon by others. No matter which camp you chose, there is no denying that his cars were the epitome of '80s flash and excess. The only company brave enough to release some of his cars in kit form was Fujimi. It must be something with this kind of cars and the Japanese, as Koenig is celebrated to this day in the country of the rising sun. A lot of his cars actually ended up in Japan today. Anyway, I am going to tackle his Porsche 928. It is a very simple kit with not too many pieces. Typical early Fujimi. I bought my kit years ago from a swap meet, so all the parts were carefully cut from the molding trees and then packed in small zip bags bundled by the steps in the instructions. This means that the original box I bought it in, was almost empty when I opened it. Now, just because the number of parts is really low, does not make this kit easy. The mold lines on the body were ridiculous and in some pretty weird places. And the side intakes in the wide body are a nightmare to align and fill, so there are no gaps. I already took care of this, so here it is waiting for primer. I also glued the mirrors and the headlight bases prior to paint. The kit gives you the option to position the headlights in the "up" position, but I always found them weird looking on the real car when on, so I left them at "off".

Very realistic. Great job.

Very nice. I like the color choice too.

I think that everything about a 1000hp twin turbo Ferrari Testarossa with a wide body is eye catching. No matter what color it is painted. Willy Koenig made quite few of these monsters. Most known examples ended in Japan somehow.

Thank you Bruce. The color is actually cheap nail polish. The engine and interior are Tamiya Italian red and the roll cage is plain white, for which I just cleaned up the mold lines and cleared the kit's plastic. It is molded all in white. I am working on the Porsche 928 equivalent from the same series. My kid already picked a red nailpolish for it. LOL. People sometimes give me strange looks when I look at length at the nail polish department in the store and sometimes try a color on my thumb nail. Especially when I'm by myself.

This is an old Fujimi kit from their deal with Koenig Specials. They made quite few of his cars, but this is by far my favorite. I saw the real car at the Geneva Auto Salon in 1990 and it left me speechless. The one I saw was red with blue interior. I flipped the color combo, as one like this actually exist and it is in Japan I believe. The model is not very detailed and some of the pieces are pain to make fit seamlessly, but I think it turned out nice. The model is box stock other than the aftermarket belts and flocking on the floor.

Well, you are absolutely right. If you shoot lacquer over enamel it can wrinkle. Never seen it happen the other way around. The wrinkling happens when one coat eats into the other or dries faster than the coat underneath. Lacquers are "hotter" and faster drying than enamels, therefore there is no issues with them as long as they are under the enamels. At least this is my experience. Anyway. I sprayed the color about 3am last night. First I went with the Tamiya Chrome Yellow. Let it set for about an hour, at which time it was dry to the touch. Then I sprayed few coats of Aluma Coupe Yellow. Both paints I shot pretty "dry" on. This way they dry faster and there is less of a chance to cause any problems. As of right now the parts are still slightly tacky, but it has been only 12 hours, so it is to be expected.No wrinkles or any issues at all. Honestly, looking at the color, I should have just shot it with Giallo Tristratti, which would have been better looking and already cleared. Oh, well, I wanted to go with the original paint.

Amazing work. Always a pleasure to follow your builds.

Looking really good. Love the color on it.

I love it!

Everything getting ready for color. The suspension is dechromed and primered in black. The Body panels are in Tamiya fine primer straight from the spray can. The rear of the second body (closed panels) needed some filling, as there were gaps on the bottom of the hood. Everything will be first airbrushed with decanted Tamiya yellow, followed by the Boyd color. I have no idea how long I've had this can, so I hope it will not cause me any problems. The plan is to wrap everything in urethane clear.

The wood looks great. I'll have to practice wood grain, as I have three woodies in the works.

Both bodies glued together, sanded and washed, drying and waiting for primer. Getting their bottoms perfectly flat and smooth took some elbow grease, but overall it's nothing some body filler and sandpaper can't fix.

Darn it.... I just stripped all the chrome with oven cleaner, washed everything and sprayed it with black automotive primer and Comcast pooped the sheets, so I can't upload pictures. Oh, yeah, I started two more projects by the way.

So simple, yet so cool.

Ohhh, you don't wanna know. I have probably a dozen models that have been started about 15 years ago. Moved through three states and still, they get taken out worked on a little and then get forgotten for a while. One day I'll get them all done.

Thank you Ken. These are going to be copies of the real deal, so the colors are just as the real car. It is still going to be BOYDS Alumacoupe yellow met on the outside. The car actually has a Mitsubishi Eclipse motor. Actually the whole vehicle was commissioned by Mitsubishi. I haven't even looked for one of these kits in the last few years, but I got my stash at about $5 a pop. I never found them hard to get or expensive. And it is a such a cool kit.

I love how crisp the engine looks after it's painted.

Thank you. I'll start prepping them for paint tonight. It's a shame all that nice crisp chrome has to be stripped.

Very nice! A lot of detail in there.

After I haven't build models for over a year I had the itch several times, but it never got serious. However the last two days I have been trying to fix the mess at home and unbox various piles. Well, yesterday I opened two big boxes full of kits. And boom! It bit me! So I left everything and played with models until 5am. I had two Alumacoupes. Here's the deal….I want them box stock, just like the real car. I love the way the car looks, but I want everything open. The way the model is made, you can fix the hood in either open or closed position. So I decided to build two of them to display next to each other. One with the panels open to show the details and one closed to show the lines of the car. I basically got everything done, but the bodies. I felt like a zombie when my alarm clock buzzed at 7:30 am, but it was well worth it.

So we are one step away from finishing the model, which we'll do either tomorrow or Friday (no school). However he has his new project ready. He is extremely curious learning about the showcars of yesteryear and their builders. Right now his big thing is Ed "Big Daddy" Roth. So he wanted to build the Mysterion and I finally talked him out of it, because it is not a kit for him even with my help. So we settled on a Big Daddy car and I thought that the easiest for him would be the Beatnik Bandit II.

For pinstripes on a model like this, where the surface would not allow for decals, I would take a look at a well stocked nail polish section in one of the big stores. They make these nailpolish "pens", that have different thicknes tips on each side. They do miracles for that type of work.