eviltwincustoms

I know right... he does an awesome job, I keep coming back and looking at his amazing work. Tyrone, so just to make sure the Wheelie bars are those stock from the 55 chevy or do you extensively modify them?

So Chris, I am sure others are wanting to know as well... This is a lot of work on the original chassis, what kept you from just pushing this one to the side and just building one from Scratch? Because in the end you will end up with a chassis that is going to be 75%-85% custom built anyway. I know you can smack me in the back of the head for asking that question, now.... lol

Thanks for clarifying that for me, once I get back Mid week my plans are to begin working on my own mock up until the block arrives. Joe very nice job on bending that Tunnel yourself. What did you use to get the curve and how did you finally get it to stay together without struggling with it popping apart? LOL

Oh man Chris this is definitely the point of no return cutting that much of the chassis away! I know you will only make it look a thousand times better once completed though. Keep up the great work and in no time you will be right back to where you were.

Lookin good... those blue tie downs really pop!... I just noticed you changed the Oil Pump routing down to the Pan from when you showed it previously and it looks much better. Nice Job!

Very interesting a 65 Stingray open wheeled Coupe/Highboy!.... I wonder what this would look like with something like a 1933 fender on it?

Looking good Derrick, I have always wanted to do a XLR Pro Mod ever since they were announced. You were asking for feedback on the rear wing. As for length I say you are pretty darn close, so not necessary to change it. I was looking all over the net and finding one with a wing... is pretty much impossible! So anything at this point is pretty much accurate as to however you want to make it. But if you are shooting for the Warlock pic, my only feedback would be the front extensions. In the Warlock pic they start just to the back of the side window. Where your's if I am looking at this correctly it looks like they start at the Door line, just a bit off but nothing to get worried about, as it looks like it was made that way to compensate for the larger Wheel Tubs! Here is an Outlaw 10.5 car (Cad Attack) that you can use for body references for the front valance and rear valance. It shows that it has the relief cut like a pro mod would for the wheelie bars as well. I think this will help get you down where you need to be. Because it looks like you compensated by raising the body and changing the height of the front valance, so those darn wheelie bars would fit out back. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/pics-videos-buffet-149/619202-outlaw-cadillac-xlr-pics-vid.html The guy posted a video and around that 3 minute mark you can see the back of the car. I hope this helps anyone looking for other reference pics... For Turbo builders, there is a great pic on the plumbing and everything. I had to chuckle for a second with the little motorcycle/lawn mower motor... You know it just may go a bit faster if you put another one on the other side. It looks like if you ran that chain in to the passenger and drivers side and put peddles on it, who knows.. you could have raw MAN POWER.. instead of raw Horse Power! LOL

Sounds like Mike is the man with the plan, because that is what I was eyeing to use for the Fly Wheel as well... With the Torque converter mounted up to it, you wont see the holes. Roughly a 17mm antique watch gear should work.... there are some nice ones with a Spun aluminum/steel finish with the teeth. I have a bunch of different sizes ranging from 5mm up to 17mm that I have to play with. Hit up ebay and look for the Steampunk Watch stuff and they even have some really flat gears that could be used for just about anything. My thoughts are to use some for the Timing Gears in the front cover... A little extreme, but should be fun to play with. In addition to building out a full blown 3 disc clutch system possibly.

I have to agree, Dave is very detailed and very accurate to say the least! Based on communications with him, he spends a lot of time getting accurate dimensions of different parts. So at the very least his stuff is as accurate as it comes to reproduction! Another thing that he deserves is Kudo's for is his willingness to help out a fellow modeler. Or provide insight on things such as this....

So Dave that sounds more like just a weight classification for certification. Does that also roll into the unique Door tubing as well for that class. Or is this just more of a Chassis Builder thing to add extra weight then to hit that class?

I am with everyone else... I think Joe has done an outstanding job for his first full blown chassis job!.... Even I am learning as he shows his work. I saw the Video Tim (TDR) put up on Youtube on how to clean and prime the parts. He was using the 4.5" Turbo and they looked like they had A LOT of Detail! That is a shame it doesn't scale down to keep that. Can't wait to get the Keith Black Hemi block and Heads from TDR. My plan is to use it as a model for my own Brad Anderson aluminum block... we will see how it goes. If I don't like it, at least I can resort to using the block with some modifications after speaking with Dave to make it look like a BAE.

Oh man Tyrone, you have cut the body open and have it sitting on your chassis.... Man you are fast! I need to take lessons from a Pro, you are much faster at this whole process then I ever could be!

Yep I have to agree with you Brad, this site I have to say is a very friendly bunch of individuals willing to help out anyone!

I just ordered the 426 Keith Black Hemi and Heads, my plan is either to finish building my own block or converting the block over to a Brad Anderson Block. Thanks to Tim, he put up on the site his 1/8th scale block scaled down to 1/16.

Very cool build! I can't tell, what was the body originally? The the use of the glass beads for Valve stems, very ingenious idea! In addition to the 426 Belt Guard, I would have never thought to do something like that. If this is 1/24th scale, you have some talent in bending those numbers into something that small! Congrats on a very awesome build and car to go with your stretched diora.

I agree with the others, progress looks great and wouldn't expect any less from someone that shared their "How To" process. Thanks Outlaw105 for sharing the info on the 25.2 vs. 25.1 certification.

Thanks Robert for the follow up on the door bars... I am not familiar with the numbers. What exactly does each of them mean? Other than a 1/10 of an inch..... LOL.. that was my poor attempt at being funny!

All I know is the class has to do with the size of the Rear Slicks (10" slicks or 10.5") not sure.. and the Front clip from the firewall forward must be the original chassis of that car being used. I think the rest of the car can be a tube chassis. It isn't the same class as an Outlaw 10.5, but I do have the requirements for ADRL Extreme 10.5.

Interesting, you bring up a very good point and I do remember someone posting the solution... but remembering where that post was... is the Million Dollar question. I assume it creates a patina.... Oh you know it may have been Romell's Pro Mod Charger in the Workbench section, because he was originally going to use this Blueing process as well on his brass chassis. I have never done it, and don't know what the end result looks like to even say if it would wear off... Maybe something to try out and see?

Hey Joe, that work looks mighty darn good to me for being your first! If I didn't know any better, it looks like this wasn't your first attempt. See... I knew you could do it, now you are no longer a virgin to custom chassis work! Actually your pictures are the right size, I dont have to squint to see anything and dont have to click on a darn thumbnail to see the picture. lol However I would like to take a peak at your Funny Car cage and seat mounts a little better!

And I just want to say... after speaking with Tim, both he and TDR are a very stand up group! I have some of their stuff in 1/16th, that originally wasn't available on the site just yet. But by reaching out to Tim, he was able to see if the part could be scaled down and immediately updated the site with the item literally within hours of asking him. Not only in the "Big Boyz" Section but also in the "Drag Racing" section, others are using TDR parts.

That looks really nice.... the washers make it look like actual lug nuts now. I was going to say the same thing, if you painted the studs or lugs... taking them off and on, would only pop the paint off. Not sure what axle you are wanting to say you are running. But I have a STRANGE Engineering Catalog, and they have the perfect circular emblem. So I am planning on scanning it in and using that for my hubs. Much better than the rectangular one you find on the internet. If interested, when I get back from the Philippines in 2 weeks I will send you the scanned picture.

That is odd, now that you mention it. I just went back and looked myself, don't think I have ever seen them mocked up like that. Another unique touch is how he cut the door to go up and over the top then back down, instead of like a regular 55 chevy door. I figured this was due to his head and reducing any headaches (hitting his head) when getting in and out of the car.

Great job thus far.... I will have to take note, been wanting to build a 10.5 car.

Chassis looking good as always! I find it very interesting that this back half is sheet metal and only the front clip is Fiberglass.... is there a reason for that? Other than the obvious of not many making Carbon/Glass molds of a 55 Nomad.