Tom Geiger

By eye, but I usually start by creating an indent with an exacto blade to set the drill in so it doesn't skip out of position. Hole position is kinda forgiving, if too far off center you can drill hole wider and fill it in with gap filling glue. I use thick ca for this

I bought that album in the US Army PX in Italy back around 1971. I still have it! That Simpsons version is hilarious! Should be posted in the cover song thread!

I do the pin thing. Here is a slant six manifold with pins to hold it to the engine, as well as a pin for the exhaust pipe. I thought that the kit supplied mounting points were flimsy and wouldn't hold up to handling and adjustments. This is a Lindberg slant six, going into an MPC Volare so I knew I'd have issues lining up an exhaust, so I need the manifold to be sturdy. I had to make the exhaust system since the V8 exhaust would be on the right side, and the six exhaust is on the left side. I started this with the dual exhaust system from the AMT '71 Duster kit. I carefully cut it all apart into the exhaust system parts like you'd order for your 1:1 car. There are a total of 7 pieces here. I had to add the cat converter from the Volare since the Duster exhaust predated those. I strung all the parts together with the straight pin connectors loose, so I could twist and move things around as needed. Once I was happy with the positioning, I glued it all together same way you'd tighten up the bolts on a 1:1 system. Once that was done I created pin mounts to fix it to the chassis. The front is right on that pin you see in the first photo of the manifold. It fit right on there like a glove. I didn't even bother gluing it. The pins are under the cat converter and under the rear most bracket near the tail pipe. Here's the same concept on my '29 Ford pickup. I use regular straight pins. I cut them with regular garage quality wire cutters. I usually cut off the tip, but I leave the whole pin on the item when I'm gluing, and use it as a handle. I cut it to length for assembly. Be careful cutting pins, wear eye protection as the pieces can go flying. I usually cup my hand over it as I'm cutting to catch the pieces. Hope this helps!

Beware of the hub cap decals! They are like trying to balance a flea on the point of that cap! I lost two of them in the process.. disappeared off my finger never to be seen again.

I know, everyone is wondering, "How Does This Affect Tom Geiger"? So I will chime in We only need four model categories: Light Commercial Traditional Rods Rat Rods Vehicles Tom Doesn't Like - This category will cover everything from Ferrari, to Tractor Trailers to Nascar (guys, it's all the same kit!) Thank you very much for asking!

You??? You have that "Kid in a candy store" look on your face at any show!

Joe Cavorley was a master truck builder who died close to 20 years ago. He once scratch built a 1940s Dodge Texaco Tanker on commission for the guy who owned it. The guy even flew him to the truck, which I believe was in the Henry Ford Museum. Joe built two exact replicas at the same time, and kept one for himself. I also remember someone displaying a truckload of Dodge Omnis at an early NNL East. Anyone who builds six Dodge Omnis deserves credit!

Very nice work!

There used to be a lot of drive ins in New Jersey but they're all gone now. Victims of real estate getting too valuable to hold what basically was a seasonal business. The ones in Kearny, Hazlet and Sayreville became 8 plex theaters and had enough land left over that the one in Hazlet also has a Costco on the same property. The Sayreville one had a Red Robin, that turned into a Chuckie Cheese and later got knocked down. That theater went out of business and sits vacant, probably a victim of the video revolution. There was another one in East Brunswick that became condos.

So does this mean that the big scale guys are scale bigots? Do the 1/12 scale guys fight the 1/8 scale guys?

The irony is that you said you bought the resin van to avoid scratch building one, then you pretty much scratch built one. Great work!

That's a good choice. I generally start out with my finger, then a Q-tip or dull tooth pick depending on the surface and what nooks you need to get it into.

It's probably the same grill / bumper unit that's on the US promo. I'll bet they were both done by AMT and the Aussie version was shipped to Australia. It makes sense that Ford would do a promo of this car since it was brand new to Australia. I don't think they did a 4 door promo of the US Falcon, so this is unique. I'm pretty sure that this is a resin copy... actually a bad fiberglass copy, of that promo.

Funny thing... since I read this thread the ads that are popping up on the board are a Michaels 50% of coupon... only it's an expired one!

Also the Revell kits are new tooling which is quite expensive these days. They probably are at the end of their budget, to get the kit out at a certain price. Round 2 / AMT is primarily selling reissue kits. I won't say the tooling is free since they recently bought it all, but must be less costly than cutting new steel. Their new tampo printed tires are a gimmick to get you to buy older kits you may already have, so the expense works for them.

Hmmmm.... I'm seeing it with the Jimmy Flintstone Ranch Wagon body!

Interesting! Usually shopping center leases prevent competing businesses.

Yes. Cut a piece large than you need and lay it flat across the area. Then start tamping it down from the center, pushing the BMF into the grooves, moving both to the top and bottom directions. That isn't that deep a groove, but as long as you hadn't pulled the BMF taut it should work. And the beauty of it is, if you screw up, just pull it off and do it again.

That's the kind of decal I make all the time. First start with a jpg of your company logo. You probably have one, or scan one from your letter head or business card. I usually work in Microsoft Word. It's easy to bring an image into Word (on a blank document) and then you can scale it down as needed. If I'm not sure what exactly will fit, I'll do several to many images, changing the scale slightly on each, like 5 pixels less on each image. Then I print it out, cut out the images and hold them up against the model. Once I decide which one is the right size, I'll print several to many at one time. The images won't always come out right, so you can pick the best ones to use. And I'm sure you wouldn't mind having extras of your company logo too!

Okey doesn't have the molds anymore. At last spotting, J Lloyd, former owner of Lindberg had the molds. Okey has a big parts hoard, mostly bought as part of his purchases at the Johan/Seville liquidation auction. The Rambler wagon kits he's selling now are his remaining stock, and he's been seen assembling the kits into boxes from parts bags. Those kits are sold at shows without shrink wrap. J Lloyd also had the '59 Dodge and Chrysler Turbine car promo tooling, and was shopping that around. Those two kits were seen in Moebius showcase at a trade show, so maybe Moebius has the '59 Rambler tooling too.

That is quite a parts box raid! I had anticipated making the heater box since it's only three simple shapes. And I was hoping you'd say all that stuff came from one kit! (and hoping i was one I had extras of! Asking too much!) I can steal the rest of that stuff from my own varied parts kits and parts bins. Thanks for sharing!

I keep all my build photos in their own albums on my Fotki account. I have two folders, one for finished models, and one for unfinished, in progress models. Before I posted here, I would move the album from my unfinished to my finished folder. Now I have copied it to the finished folder, then went into my threads and posted new photo links prior to deleting the unfinished project folder. Check out how I place these in the folder below: http://public.fotki.com/ModelCitizen/model_cars/my_model_cars/

Agreed. I find it interesting to see just how many models everyone manages to build (so I can feel inferior!), and the variety of subjects that some of us will take on. You'd only see that in posts like these since nobody remembers any builder's every build.

In all fairness he stated, "Your 1/25 scale resin Conversion kit will come to you with flash attached to keep the rigid for shipping, expect to see it that way, You are responsible for removing any and all flash and Possibly filling any pinholes or sinkmarks." His photos aren't totally doctored, he left some imperfections like the roughness in the wheel wells. Not that people read auction text anyway!