Deathgoblin

Hey, sometimes a gluebomb is the only way to get a rare kit without paying an arm and a leg.

This one came out really nice. Especially considering the shape it was in when you started.

Looking good so far. getting them apart without major damage is the hard part.

I usually do a base coat of steel or aluminum, then wash in a mix of gold and steel, then a little drybrush in gold. That comes pretty close to the weird anodized color that's ususally on a carburetor.

What about Acrylic enamels, like Testor's Acryl line? They're water washable/thinnable and have no fumes.

Several reasons: Parts Kitbashing (a little more than just a couple of parts, but merging kits) Just kits that I'd eventually like to build

New version of the 70's Monaco. Maybe a 90 Crown Vic (square body). And definitely the Carbon Motors police car concept.

That's insane. Really.

Make sure you've got a good set of polishing pads. MicroMark makes a set that runs from 3200-12000 grit. once you've got a good smooth clear coat, start with the low grits and run up the scale until the panels are smooth, then polish

The Trumpeter 1978 Monte Carlo has a separate frame. I would recommend a different engine, though, because the one in the box is garbage.

I've got one. I want to pick up the 58 caddy kit and use it for a donor chassis.

Someone needs to do the rest of the cars the gang drove in that movie. I love the Wraith. Excellent job!

I tend to build whatever strikes my fancy at the time. I've got Star Trek stuff, GK anime figures, cars, etc. I used to do model airplanes, but there's not enough room for those, especially in 1/48 scale. I miss my 1/48 C-130.

Great work! Very nice.

Because of varicose veins on my legs, I've had to use some of those a couple of times. I've had some small blood vessels on the side of my ankle pop open and spray due to dry skin. Fortunately, my wife had some of those within reach so I taped one on over the wound. Worked really well, and everything healed up nicely afterwards.

The only way I've seen of doing a true metallic look on a decal is using an ALPS printer. It's not an inkjet, it uses cartridges more like an old style printer ribbon. The up side to these is they can do any color including white.

I usually paint it on by hand, and use a toothpick to touch up the edges by lightly rubbing off the excess. If I'm trying to be really careful about the edge, I'll go around the edge first with a micron pen.

Absolute worst was cutting about a quarter inch into my finger tip while disassembling a kit using a scalpel blade.

The engine looks great! Nice work!

I use water based paints over primer for some things. Anything but the body is typically fine.

I'd like to have the Hornet.

For some reason, I thought this was about your workbenches.

My last two packages arrived faster than I anticipated. I finally got a another digital camera, so I can start posting again.

Kinda glad to see it. Lindberg made some really good kits. The 1/20 scale kits were all nice, and the more recent 1/25 scales like the 53 Ford and 63 Dodge were also really nice. Hopefully this keeps those kits alive even if they don't keep the company name.

As an addendum to dropping freshly painted things in the nearest pile of dirt: These same parts will also find the nearest cache of cat hair in the carpeting. Recently shoved a microdrill through my fingertip. That was unpleasant.