S. Svendsen

I use a pastel/chalk blending stick. It's soft yet firm and you can sharpen it to a point with a pencil sharpener to get down into tight crevises. Been using the same one for 20 years. http://www.dickblick.com/products/loew-cornell-blending-stumps/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=22866-1059&gclid=Cj0KEQjwvLGfBRDfkrr19KDS-7YBEiQA8CoFJz6P_XGwVWgfYKbZc2HW8F1VjSdcqDhXLD4tjpmVU5AaAqHp8P8HAQ

I use a piece of black plexiglass on top of a black cloth sweep as a back drop. I then place large white cards in front of the model so they reflect light back into the car.

They were from the original kit.

Neato!

No engine detail or chassis detail on this one. Like most of my builds, this is just a curbside model.

Just finished this restoration of an original AMT '66 Mercury Cyclone 390 GT. You can get the full story and see more pics on my site at the link. http://www.svensworldofwheels.com/66_cyclone_page.html

Very sharp

Nicely done.

That's cool.

Nailed it!

Nice build. Does the boot come in all '73 Cougar kits? If not, what version did you get it in?

That's impressive

Nailed it.

That's awesome

Before Round 2 took over ownership of AMT/Ertl and MPC the quality of the decal printing really suffered. Model King was at the mercy of the kit manufacturer during that time who was not concerned about quality control. The decals were only printed with one thin layer of clear making them very flimsy. The best advice is the soak them in water for only about 30 sec. or less and then keep them on the paper until you can slide them directly on the model. Also, setting solution isn't needed because they are so thin. They take some getting use to but are workable if you are very careful.

That's awesome.

Very cool.

Nicely done.

Awesome.

It's so weird, that this is actually cool!

Great job on the weathering.

Awesome

Very cool

Awesome.

I dig it.