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Harry P.

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Everything posted by Harry P.

  1. Yes. About two dozen of them at least. Maybe more.
  2. The world's biggest, most well-stocked hobby shop. Open seven days a week for your shopping convenience!
  3. It has completely changed the hobby. For the better.
  4. All of my PB albums are "private," only I can view them. I use PB to store my photos only, no lookie lookie allowed unless I upload a photo elsewhere that I want someone to see. So no issues with bandwidth for me...
  5. And that is the beauty of ebay.
  6. If you're at 17% capacity, you may be "approaching" your limit, but you still have a loooooong way to go before you get there. I don't know which PB you used, but it takes about 5 seconds for me to upload a photo.
  7. That would qualify as the bargain of a lifetime!
  8. I didn't lock the topic, but my guess is that it was locked not because of your post, but because of what it was probably going to tun into if left alone. Nip it in the bud, as Barney always said...
  9. Dang! Just when you think you've had an original idea...
  10. Nice work, Bruce. I agree with Rob, love the interior/exterior color scheme. Very sharp looking Chevy!
  11. But then there wouldn't be a comic strip...
  12. Don't forget to post the "after" photos!
  13. Sometimes you find a real bargain. The other day I bought a vintage, sealed Entex 1/16 scale 1905 Rolls Royce kit on ebay. The kit was going for roughly $60-$80 or so, plus shipping, from all the other sellers. I found one for $29 and free shipping! I don't know if the seller was unaware of what this kit usually goes for, or if he just wanted to get rid of it, or if he's just a nice guy... but the moral of the story is that there are bargains to be had on ebay all the time. All it takes is a little patience.
  14. Any "before" photos?
  15. Time to join the 21st century, Carl! Good old fashioned tube glue is ok for some things, but like the guys have said, there are better glues for different circumstances. For me, I use liquid glue for general building because it's such a clean, neat joint with no "squish out" or "strings" like you get with tube glue. I use Ambroid Pro-Weld because it works on several types of plastic, not only styrene. I think if you tried liquid cement, you wouldn't go back to tube glue.
  16. Hobbytown USA carries it.
  17. That looks really good, but I don't get that front axle...
  18. Yep. Taking a dragster and adding four extra wheels, four extra tires, and an extra front and rear end, without doing anything to make up for all that added dead weight, isn't exactly the formula for success at the strip!
  19. I think the biggest problem with these catalyzed paints is that too many model builders use them too casually. Sure, there are those that take the proper precautions, but really taking the proper precautions is a big deal and involves quite a bit of effort and equipment. "Hobby" paints, or even automotive paints like DupliColor, are sold primarily for use by amateurs, not professional painters. Sure they're still toxic to some extent, but a whiff of Testors or Tamiya every so often will probably not cause anyone any serious harm. You don't want to make a habit of sniffing fumes, you still want to paint either in a ventilated booth or outdoors... but odds are you're not risking your life using "hobby" paints. Two-part paints, on the other hand, are not meant to be used casually... they are meant to be used by professional painters who have the proper professional equipment needed to safely use them. I don't think my health is worth risking for the sake of a model car. I'll leave the professional paint to the professional painters.
  20. Don't take those old color chips as gospel. Who knows how much the colors have shifted over the years? Maybe the chip page was laying out on some salesman's desk in the sun for weeks. The colors in old chips may or may not be accurate.
  21. Beautiful!
  22. Design A isn't showing up.
  23. Are these from kits, or scratchbuilt?
  24. Beautiful!
  25. If you think you can safely sand off the weathering, I say try it. Then lightly sand the decals where you want them to look worn and weathered, and redo the weathering. You might even want to add a few "rust holes" here and there.
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