Harry P.

That's one of the most common misconceptions out there–tons of guys believe it. And lots of people clear over the foil because that's what they've been told to do, not because any of their uncleared foil ever fell off. The fact is, there's no need to "seal" BMF at all. I don't think it hurts anything to clear over the foil, but I can say from experience that it is not necessary. Of all the models I've used foil on over the years, none of them have clear over the foil and none of the foil on any of them has ever come off.

The whole point is NOT to use brand-name foil... use the cheap stuff, either generic or from the dollar store. Brand-name foil is too thick, the cheap stuff is thinner and works much easier for this technique.

Don't know, but I guess it's possible.

Strange. I have models that were foiled 30 years ago and the foil has never come off of any model of mine, ever. And I didn't clear coat over any of them.

The car is a 1963 Sabra Sport. http://inventory.dezercollection.com/1963-sabra-sport-sport-coupe-c-275.htm Who got it right: Drgon63 wisdonm mr moto trogdor Badluck13 otherunicorn ChrisR george53 Thom

Future is nothing more than clear acrylic. It's not a floor wax. It's not a dessert topping.

Pretty sure Falcons never offered a 4-cylinder.

Seems to me that the technique works because the paint is sealing the tape edge, so it would make no difference whether you used color or clear. So unless I'm missing something obvious, the answer to your question is yes, the HGTV method should work just as well as the "clear" method.

Aleene's Tacky Glue (Hobby Lobby and Michael's carry it) is thicker than normal white glue and might work better at holding bare plastic parts together than ordinary white glue.

Mike, your skills are pretty impressive. But what you've done to the kit body so far, despite your modestly, is NOT within the skill set of the average modeler. Now you may fire back and say that the "average modeler" doesn't even care about making all the corrections to the body that you're making, or would even notice any of the problems... and that may very well be true. But I still contend that there is no reason that any modeler should have to go to the lengths you're going through to correct the body of a newly-tooled kit before you can even build the kit, just to get to the point where the body is accurate! Getting the body accurate was the manufacturer's job.

0.4mm is the thinnest white one I found: http://www.jetpens.com/Sakura-Gelly-Roll-Regular-Gel-Ink-Pen-0.4-mm-White/pd/531

That's weird... it sure doesn't look 48 feet long!

Why? What are they looking for?

Cato has it. Go get an aluminum turkey roasting pan from the dollar store. There's plenty of flat aluminum sheet there for several models, at a dirt cheap price. I've also used aluminum pie pans... same thing, just smaller, so less material available.

Can't fit it in my garage, so... pass.

His last post was March 17, 2010. My guess is he's long gone.

The '59 Mustang is my fave. Love the fins!

It's ironic that some people here will argue about the correct way to give something away!

I bet GM could sell a few of those!

Not too late to drill them out.

Nicely done... but I doubt those loose wheels laying around would have lug nuts.

Speaking of "Hell's Angels," there's a big scene in the movie "The Aviator" showing the "set" of Hell's Angels (Leonardo DiCaprio plays Howard Hughes). Tons of WWI fighters (all reproductions, no doubt)...a cool "movie within a movie."

Remember... do not post any hints or answers here. PM me with specific year, make and model. The answer: 1963 Sabra Sport

Yeah, I agree... once the lawyers get involved it becomes a mess.

Man! That is just too cool! Love everything, especially the hat and the bent license plate. What a great eye for detail you have! PS: Loved your talk show.