Harry P.

http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2012/06/20/2-million-mercedes-left-in-garage-for-60-years-to-be-auctioned/?intcmp=obnetwork

Nice tip! Simple, easy, effective. That's what it's all about!

That's pretty nicely done!

How did you do the snaps on the top boot?

But you know what? Doesn't matter what state you're in, the pols will screw you. Dang! Broke the "no politics" rule again! Moderator! We need a moderator in aisle 12!

Yikes! And I thought Illinois was bad! But a title transfer is a one-time deal, so you should be ok from now on.

You should see the prices, taxes and fees in Chicago! Ooops... I just broke the "no politics" rule. Sorry about that.

Yeah, they nickel and dime you to death in this state!

Actually it's only $99.

Yes! I loved those "girder and panel" sets! I had them too. Great fun... and great memories!

Black/crimson sounds very cool.

Very cool Duster! I love everything about it... wheels, colors, everything! Wish I had a 1:1 just like this!

Very slick!

I think that was the same problem with my parents, so I never had them as a kid...

Any putty that you squeeze out of a tube is bad stuff. It hardens via evaporation, which means the solvent (the liquid part) gradually evaporates, leaving the hardened solid putty behind. But because it hardens by evaporation, there are two basic problems. First, if you lay it on thick, it might seem to be hard (and it will be, on the surface)... but it can still be soft inside. So you can sand, prime, and paint your model thinking all is well, but a week or a month or more later, after the putty has fully dried. you'll see flaws under your paint where the putty has actually shrunk over time. Of course, now it's too late to fix it! Which brings me to the second problem: shrinkage. Every one-part putty (the kind you apply directly, without mixing it with something else) hardens via evaporation of the solvent, just like paint "dries." Same exact process... the liquid part evaporates away, leaving the solid part behind. But because the putty is literally losing a part of it's volume as it dries (remember, the liquid part is evaporating away), the putty will shrink as it dries. If you apply the stuff in very thin layers and let it completely dry before sanding, priming and painting, you should be ok... but how can you really know if the drying (and shrinking) process is fully finished? The answer is to ditch one-part putties and go with two-part catalyzed putties (like "Bondo," for one example). Two part putties are mixed before applied... resin (putty) plus hardener, like you mix epoxy. And like epoxy, two-part putties don't "dry," they set chemically via the chemical reaction between resin and hardener. There is no loss of volume due to evaporation (in other words, no shrinking), and once the chemical reaction has happened, it's done. The putty has set, and you're good to go. There won't be any further "drying" and shrinking over time, like there is with one-part putties.

Real.

I now have all I need to put together the feature. Thanks everyone... you'll be seeing your models in the pages of MCM soon!

It's nice to see a model that's a little out of the ordinary "Under Glass!"

One of my favorite building sets as a kid was "American Plastic Bricks." They were sort of a forerunner of Legos, but the biggest difference was that the bricks didn't fit tightly like Legos do. With Legos, you can build something and then pick it up and actually play with it, but with American Plastic Bricks, the bricks fit loosely; gravity held everything together. Once you built something, you couldn't pick it up; it would just fall apart. http://www.google.com/search?q=american+plastic+bricks&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=QHrvT-ylEsaYrAH1-5SPAg&ved=0CFUQsAQ&biw=1261&bih=721

I never had them as a kid, which is odd because I was really into those types of building toys... I had lots of those types of building and construction sets, but never Legos. Maybe my parents never bought me Legos because they were too expensive. But I remember buying a lot of them for my own kids. Man, they are not cheap! Especially those cool sets where you could build a specific model like a pirate ship or whatever. I probably spent hundreds of dollars on Legos for my kids, and finally got my chance to play with them when I built stuff with my son. When my kids outgrew them I gave them all away to a friend with a young son, so hopefully they had a second life!

They're not dust storms... they're haboobs!

So you put it aside for a while and live your life.

The best brushes are sable hair; they hold a point well and the bristles are just "springy" enough for a good feel.

There's some confusion here regarding how to create artwork for decals vs. putting that artwork together so that it can be output (printed). The point I'm trying to make about Word, as far as the original question goes (what's a good program to use to make decals with), is that Word alone will not let you create decal art. What it can do is allow you to import images that were gotten elsewhere (either found online, scanned from existing images or created from scratch using graphics software) and re-size and arrange them on a page. But actually creating the artwork itself cannot be done using Word (unless your art is very basic and simple). In order to create thegraphics, you need a graphics program. And if you have a graphics program that you use to create your decals, you don't need Word at all, because you can size and arrange your decals right there within your graphics program.

In this country they have always been called dust storms. Why the sudden shift to calling them something else?