Harry P.

Asking people for their recommendations never works, because everyone will recommend the camera that they have! All you'll get is a bunch of different recommendations with no common baseline or point of reference. Well-meaning recommendations, but not too useful. You'd do better to do your own research. All the information you'll ever need is online... prices, reviews, etc., and the reviews can be broken down by price... so you won't waste your time looking through reviews of cameras you can't afford. Here's a link to start you out. http://www.digitalca...le-camera-deals Another one: http://reviews.cnet.com/digital-camera-reviews/?filter=100021_9231531_&tag=centerColumnArea1.0

Body looks great, but the interior is way too nice. How about a few split seams on the seats repaired with duct tape?

No, no, no... no subtle poke intended. It's from the "Hans and Franz" SNL skit. You know, they were going to take all the girly men and "pump you up!" You know... the guys with the "Ah-nold" accent...

I thought we were talking about hijackers??? Can we PLEASE stay on topic, people? Thank you.

Paint is champagne gold??? Looks like silver in the photos.

From DuPont's website: Origin and Potential Causes of Orange Peel: Improper gun adjustment and techniques. Too little air pressure, wide fan patterns or spraying at excessive gun distances causes droplets to become too dry during their travel time to the work surface and they remain as formed by gun nozzle. Extreme shop temperature. When air temperature is too high, droplets lose more solvent and dry out before they can flow and level properly. Improper dry. Gun fanning before paint droplets have a chance to flow together will cause orange peel. Improper flash or recoat time between coats. If first coats of enamel are allowed to become too dry, solvent in the paint droplets of following coats will be absorbed into the first coat before proper flow is achieved. Wrong thinner or reducer. Under-diluted paint or paint thinned with fast evaporating thinners or reducers causes the atomized droplets to become too dry before reaching the surface. Too high viscosity. Low shop temperature. Too little thinner or reducer. Materials not uniformly mixed. Many finishes are formulated with components that aid coalescence. If these are not properly mixed, orange peel will result. Substrate not sanded thoroughly

I have a feeling this is going to be good...

That's almost unrecognizable as a '49 Ford! Nice custom work...

Real or model? The answer: MODEL!

My knowledge of WWII planes amounts to about zero... but to me, the P51 Mustang just looks fast! Cool styling, it just looks like it run rings around the others. I remember building a kit as a kid... I seem to remember that it was all chrome? Anyone know the kit I'm remembering?

Is it orange or red???

All the more reason to read the manual...

If you read the manual, I think you'll find the camera isn't the problem...

Nope. Remove parts from sprue, clean up and sand as needed... then I attach the part(s) back onto some scrap sprue with a tiny dot of CA in a place where it won't show on the finished part, and paint. Or, depending on the shape of the part, I might stick it onto a loop of masking tape doubled over so the adhesive side is up. When dry, snap it off and assemble. But bottom line, remove from sprue, then paint.

Yes it is. Great stuff, although I've only used it on "real" cars so far...

The problem is that there are WAY too many lawyers. I wonder how a resin caster like Modelhaus gets away with selling replicas of "Fords," "Chevies." "Plymouths," etc. I can't imagine that they are paying licensing fees to all the car manufacturers... are they???

The little car in the picture is the very first car from Mazda, a 1960(?) R360 Coupe DeLuxe. Not really sure of the model year... the source labels this one as a 1962, but as far as I can see it looks pretty much the same as the 1960 model, which is what most of you said it was. Could be the photo was mislabeled. Anyway, from the source: Having started as a cork factory, the first roadable products of the Toyo Kogyo group from Hiroshima in 1931 were motorbikes and three-wheeler vans. The first car prototype was developed in 1940, though it took another 20 years before mass production could start. Along with the entire Japanese car industry, the development of Mazda then took off at truly breathtaking speed. The first model in 1960 was the R-360 (the number indicates the capacity), a coupe that survived until 1970. In 1962, the slightly larger Carol (available with 360 and 600 cc) followed, a car that was similar to the Ford Anglia and had a reverse-angle rear window. In 1964 a convertible complemented the series. One of the reasons Mazda became known in Germany was because of its takeover of the Wankel rotary piston license in 1961 and is still faithfully using and developing this particular combustion engine technology today. Who got it right? Mark Taylor chillyb1 wheelman sjordan2 draggon MikeMc modelmartin puddingwrestler badluck13 thom mdlman1

I think the wheels look good, not a fan of the intake. Seems out of place on a cruiser like this.

This is going to be so cool...

Uh... you guys do realize we have an "Under Glass" section... right?

I gotta go with Tammy from Texas...

Don't forget to either foil or paint the interior window cranks and door handles...

How about metalflake glow-in-the-dark Zingers?

You just did!