ShawnS

Thanks for the heads up on digidecals Mike. I only started using Hobbyist decals because they started as custom hobby decals here in Aus so if an Australian option pops up now I'll probably switch over. I have used Spotmodel decals with varying success in the past but the last sheet I got from them (2years ago) almost every logo curled up into a unrecoverable mess once the decal had left the paper. The Euro / Aus dollar conversion rate means Spotmodel decals are fairly expensive so they are a last resort. This Sierra has Spotmodel decals on it. I have also used some Decaldoc decals (not custom printed) on this BMW. It also has decals from Spotmodel as well as Patto's, Hobbyist, Easydecal and home printed logos. Lasershark is another custom printer in Australia but his colours can be patchy and slightly pixelated but still usable and his costs are pretty reasonable too. Cheers ShawnS

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the comments. Decals are printed by https://hobbyistdecals.com/. They are based in India and transact in US dollars. The decals are digital printed so they have clean colours and no pixelation. The only downside is the white is a bit too weak and colours bleed through one layer of white easily so if I have any white items on the sheet I make sure to add enough of them to do double layers on the model.

Hi again, Thanks everyone for looking and posting your comments on my BMW 2002 thread so here's another one from the 1975 Bathurst 1000 race for you. The car was driven by Max McGinley and Paul King , unfortunately they didn't cover enough laps to be classified as a finisher. I wish I could tell you the story behind this colourful car but our motorsport press don't ever seem to concern themselves with things that aren't V8 powered so their story has been lost to time. The kit is Hasegawa's 3 door Civic that I converted to the 2 door version by relocating the rear number plate recess and rescribing the rear panel lines. Hasegawa did originally release a 2 door version but I was a couple of years too late so I had to modify a 3 door. I also made new wheels and tyres as well as front indicator/light units and side mirror. I also added a rollcage. The decals are custom printed from my own artwork. I set myself some paint masking challenges last year and this is one of them. It's painted with Tamiya TS-49 bright red and TS-47 chrome yellow. I originally painted it with SMS paints and after nailing the colour coats the SMS clear came out rubbish (probably my fault) so I had to strip it and re-do it and the next time was with the Tamiya paints but unfortunately the masking job wasn't all that good and it would have taken me longer to fix the paint than it would have if I stripped it and re-did it, so that's what I did. Third time was a charm and after some minor touch ups it was all good. I enjoyed this little kit and I would recommend it to anyone. Thanks for looking Cheers ShawnS

Thanks every one. Bruce I use AK crystal magic glue for my fiddly parts. It dries fairly strong but parts can popped off without damage if a mistake is made and any dried residue can be picked off with a tooth pick or a long finger nail and wet residue is also easy to clean up. It dries in a few minutes so it gives you ample time to place your parts on the model and add tape to secure the parts like those rubber strips. Cheers ShawnS

Hi guys, This is the 2002tii that was driven in the 1975 Bathurst 1000 by Peter Williamson and John McDonald. They started 23rd but DNF'ed. It's the late version Hasegawa kit with the USCP late model door cards. I designed and 3D printed the right hand drive dash as well as my own front seats. I also did my own wheels and tyres and had the decals custom printed from my own artwork. I painted the fluorescent red stripes with paint from a can of Tamiya TS36 which by my estimation is either side of 30 years old. I decanted the paint and airbrushed it. If you've ever wondered if it really is fluorescent, here's a pic I took with the lights out and the UV torch on. Just for something different. Thanks for looking. I've had a busy last couple of months finishing various models so please look out for them in the near future. Cheers ShawnS

You've done a supreme job Bruce. Well done.

Hi Mike. It's not waterslide but adhesive. https://www.bnamodelworld.com.au/model-cars-motorcycles-parts-decals-hasegawa-models-ha-71936 Just might suit your needs. Cheers ShawnS

I've had some of these for a couple of months now and I can say that they are handy items to have. If you need a quick coat of something and don't want to bother with a brush then they are a go-to tool. They have decent coverage and can be re-coated without affecting the previous coat. They are all matt finish and the colour choices are more aimed at airplane and military modellers but I hope that AK can develop these a bit more and make some more colours that are less military oriented. They aren't a magic bullet cure for anything but a very handy weapon in the arsenal. Cheers ShawnS

Its not like full reflective chrome but depending on their own personal standards those builders who use plain silver paint for their chrome might be happy with the results. These roll cages were painted with sparkling silver and the identical TS83 metallic silver spray can. Just like Alclad etc. they work best over a smooth coat of any dark colour. It doesn't dull with handling either and both LP48 and TS83 are more idiot proof than Alclad etc type of paints as you can get a quick and easy result. Cheers ShawnS

Thanks Andy and Bruce.

Thanks again everyone. I'm glad you like the little bit of history that I included as some context makes things a bit more interesting. Niko, the clamps are from an old Crazy Modeler PE set of asst clamps that I've had for years. It's very nice soft metal that bends easily and stays there. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be any more available anywhere that I have looked which is a bummer as I would like some more. Cheers ShawnS

Thanks guys. Norm didn't seem to mind a bench seat as quite a few of his cars had them he even raced a '66 Nova with a front bench seat for a couple of years. Cheers ShawnS

Hi guys, Fresh off the bench after 13 years is this beast. It started out as AMT's '62 Impala convertible with a roof from an AMT '63 Impala. I made my own 3d printed interior and Carter AFB carbs and detailed the rest of the engine bay. The paint is a custom mix of SMS pearls to get my own approximation of Twilight Turquoise and the roof is Tamiya TS26. The bumpers, mirror and door handles are SMS Hyperchrome. The Car. Australian racing legend Norm Beechey needed a solution to the problem of beating the Jaguars that were starting to dominate Australian racing in the early 1960's. After reading about Dan Gurney shaking up the Jags in the UK with an Impala he decided to get one and see if it could do the same here. Gurney's Impala was a 2 door but as large capacity 2 door cars were banned under Australian touring car rules at the time Norm had to settle for a four door. Not a big issue as he was going to sell it after he was finished racing anyway. The car arrived and after some running in time it was found there were issues with the 409s bearings and after some correspondence with Mr Gurney a solution was found and the big car ht the track. It only raced 8 times over the course of a year and was expensive to race and maintain so Norm returned it to road car spec and moved on. Anyone who saw the car race back in the day (not me) still talk fondly of it and it has made itself at home in the foggy mythology that is the history of Australian Touring cars. Norm ended up buying the car again and used in targa rally type events. I'm not sure if he still owns it but it pops up now and again at historic events. It also has Model Car Garage PE inside and out and Modelhaus Tyres. So very glad to have this one finished after way too many fights with it. Thanks for looking. Cheers ShawnS

I'm in the southern suburbs of Adelaide and I have to squeeze in as much painting as I can in between constant days of 20-30 knot winds. 😔. I try to avoid the heat by painting in the mornings. The (very big) book is worth the money with many pictures and detailed stories about the car and it's history and it also busts a lot of myths but doesn't have a huge amount of pictures that show smaller details that help me as a model builder. Cheers ShawnS

Thanks guys. I have that book Shayne and it was the catalyst for me pulling the trigger to start this project and although the book doesn't have the answer to every question it has certainly been very helpful. I would love to give everyone an update on this but I have had to set it aside as it is painting season and the Mustang was taking a bit too much time away from other projects that could actually be finished this year. I will get back to it sooner or later. Cheers ShawnS