Zoom Zoom

It's not a prebuilt diecast, it's the identical model you can buy and build. It's just been built for you. For $60 they are amazing. From my perspective I value my investment in building a lot higher than Tamiya does. I'd rather have bought the preassembled model vs. spending my own limited free time building the exact same thing I can pay Tamiya an extra $20 to have it fully built for me. In this case Tamiya is making it worth my while NOT to build it! At the rate I build, it will take several lifetimes to finish what I already own. If I'm going to spend 10-30 hours on a kit like this I want something more unique than something identical that's spit off an assembly line. The whole phenomenon is making me realize that everything I build has to be unique; I'm even less likely to build anything OOB anymore because I desire to have something more unique. And the comments are in no way meant to belittle what Mark has done; his model is amazing and I'm sure it's a good step above the one you can simply buy from Tamiya. It's just my own personal rant w/Tamiya; they're not making the models that I came to expect from them, and when I do buy one from them they go and make it easy for anyone to own one already finished.

Gorgeous model-turned out really nice. I have one to build plus I bought the extra detailing parts. However I'm at a crossroads w/the kit and Tamiya in general. I really wanted to build this same car. To enjoy the experience and get better acquainted with complex decals, and hopefully enjoy a similarly impressive result. But now I can simply buy the kit from them ready to go-for only a few bucks more than the already-expensive kit, I find myself angry with them for taking a project I really wanted to build and cheapening it by offering it via mass-production. At this point I have no desire to build the car; if it does get built it will be in a completely unique paint scheme. I realize I may always have had a lot more fun doing it that way in the first place, but sometimes I'm too hard-headed for my own good. Tamiya just isn't the same anymore, and I miss that. Not only are they barely producing any new kits anymore, they're making the finished product available to anyone for what I consider fire-sale prices. How they can get that kind of quality of build/finish for that price is amazing. But by doing this the whole aura and passion that was once Tamiya is history. The reward of finishing one of their kits is now worth a whole lot less.

Now I know why my hair is standing on end. :shock:

Looking great Ismael! The color scheme looks great. Did you get the link I emailed you about Pininfarina's coachbuilt 612? Seems we're not the only ones that felt the 612 needed some extra character. Here's the link so everyone can see it. Nice details like California-style hood, chrome grille/headlights, revised taillights and side cove, still fugly wheels :wink: http://www.italiaspeed.com/2006/events/vil...arina/1804.html

Nice color choice.

That turned out very nice, and I still like your '57 too

Congrats! Well deserved. Trophy is kind of cool even if a bit macabre.

Can't argue with that, for many standard colors I won't bother to break out the airbrush. Best spray can paint, hands down. They now also have cans of transparent colors like blue, green, red, orange so you can apply that over their silver leaf or any other metallic or pearl base for a nice candy effect. Their clear pearl however leaves a lot to be desired, the pearl effect is weak at best. Pearl midcoats seem better suited to airbrush users for best effect. One can get a decent look from layering the pearl clear between a solid and a transparent color, it just won't be quite as "pearly" as if it were a more integral part of the base coat.

Nice models guys! This is one of my favorites. Such and easy/quick kit to have some fun with, lotsa bang for the buck. Custom-mixed Model Master enamels, Modelhaus tires, parts box wheels, did some simple surgery to get the front end down where it belongs. Got another one to do with a little more patina :wink: This one qualifies as a factory hot rod, though it was a prototype. One-off 1934 Ford model 40 Speedster, commonly referred to as the "Edsel Ford Speedster". Built for Edsel Ford to satisfy his need for speed. It was originally gray metallic but later restored and repainted red. The real car has tons of character (one of my all-time favorite cars in person), and is in the original survivor condition from that restoration from the early 50's, and apparently will stay that way. Model by R&D Unique, w/a few parts from Revell's '37 Ford PU. This is the model built by an unknown builder, in the car's original color scheme: Dan Fink's Speedwagon, in a different color. Another spectacularly easy and fun kit to put together:

Can't wait to see this one finished to your standards! It's a gorgeous kit of a beautiful car. What color will you be doing this one?

Thanks for the sharing the details! I especially like seeing examples of how to fix things like this. Too often I see examples of builders facing an similar obstacle and their automatic solution is to strip what is essentially perfectly good paint and start over. The more examples, like this, that can be shown...the better.

Looking superb! I'm also surprised how often people don't trim the decals along panel lines. Some decals are far easier to trim than others, and it can be tricky...one wrong slip and there could be a big problem. Are the seats and lots of parts white metal? That is one material that I wish never was discovered by model producers, as the part finish is always rougher than resin, finishing is a tedious and often thankless job. Too many model companies use it as a crutch to add weight and cut down their production costs/time. I have one Model Factory Hiro kit and I despise the parts that are white metal, they would have been so much nicer had they been produced in resin. So many superb parts in resin/photoetch/machined aluminum and then you look at the white metal parts and they don't even begin to compare.

It's only a can of paint ; and it's only a minor setback. If it were a new can of paint (as in recently purchased) w/a receipt I most certainly would take it back for exchange. However I wouldn't expect anyone to pay for my mistake on an older product that I damaged and had no receipt for, especially on something as inexpensive as a can of paint. The remedy is simple. I would take the damaged can of paint with me to the store with the intention of buying a new can of paint. I would show them the old can, tell them what happened, tell them I don't have a receipt, tell them I was willing to buy another one, and that I would like them to safely dispose of the damaged can. At best they may take pity on my situation and let me exchange it for a new can w/o the receipt. At worst they throw the can away and I am only out the cost of a new can of paint, and would be back in business w/a minimum of cost/time/hassle.

That looks really cool! Though I admit I like the un-decaled look better, but the are pretty neat...would make great graphics for a real race car.

Um...erm...this will be interesting, to say the least... How are the Barracudas coming?

Mike, you been staying up all night machining again? John/Mr. Can Am Garage isn't wildrice.

That's really sharp! Color, stance and wheel choice are perfect 8)

It says 1/24 scale on the box, so unless someone slipped an MPC version inside it's 1/24. Have fun w/it! From everything I hear it's a bear to build it with all the vinyl gizmos the kit has and get all the body panels in place. Of course there are people on various boards who have built it that can help you out w/tips for exactly what to look out for, as it can be built very nicely.

Me too. Do you even know what it is Mike? Looks safe at any speed to me. I really like the Deoriviamino below it, and the Opel GT.

In addition to Mark's excellent tutorial, you can also buff out the foil w/the same compound you use to polish your paint (these days I use mostly Meguiars Scratch X). When properly applied, trimmed, and buffed it looks amazing. Make sure you treat the areas foiled just like painted/finished areas, don't forget to clean them up and make sure they are as smooth as possible as the foil will not hide any flaws underneath. Don't be afraid of the foil, it's a pretty easy technique to pick up. Try it out on a scrap body or unpainted model first to see how it works, and then practice careful trimming. It's easier than the old standby of painting the chrome trim w/silver paint and a small brush. However you can touch up small areas w/a dot or two of Testors silver chrome trim paint or their silver lacquer-both are very bright.

Hi Billy, it certainly was a crazy day that went by so fast and unfortunately I didn't get a chance to meet you. Hopefully next year! The ACME NNL always falls on the 2nd Sat. of November. Seems a TX NNL decided to use that weekend as well this year. When we decided on a permanent date for our NNL there were no other regularly-scheduled shows on that particular weekend.

ACME NNL Southern Nationals, Saturday, November 11, 2006 10am-4pm, Smyrna Community Center, Smyrna GA. Themes: Porsches and Pony Cars . Hospitality room at the host hotel Friday/Saturday nights. Come on down and enjoy true Southern hospitality and a real fun model show http://www.acme-ipms.com/2005_nnl.htm http://www.acme-ipms.com/ Pics from last year: http://public.fotki.com/ACME-IPMS/acme_sou...southern_natio/

Thanks for sharing the pics! It certainly was a great show, I'm still enjoying the post-show hangover/buzz. Can't wait for next year either!

Thanks guys! The NNL East...wow, what a blast! I've still got the NNL East hangover buzz going It's amazing how fast that day goes by. Great to see Gregg and others there.

Agreed 100%.