Ace-Garageguy

Beautiful model, perfect colors.

Nice score, Ray. Love the 330 P4. That '59 Buick of Tommy's is another one I'm lusting after, as is Brad's '62 Nova. Those Hiroboy tires look really really great too. I got one of these cheap, specifically for the Guide lamps, and some other bits. Kinda think I just might build it pretty much like it is though.

Yes, but you can always use a different computer or hide behind a proxy. This is computer crime basic 101.

You all really need to watch out for trying to hang a man on only circumstantial evidence. Overwhelming PROOF of guilt is normally required before someone is convicted and sentenced in a court of law, and there's a reason for that. Even then, mistakes are made and innocent people get screwed. We KNOW Dr. D is a POS based on first-hand knowledge of his conduct, but until the IP addresses of the accused are run down (which can help to determine where the activity is originating from geographically), and whatever other verification can be brought in here, it would be best to withhold judgement. This is why I asked if the OP was absolutely POSITIVE the accused is the same guy, and apparently there's room for doubt. One of the things this country is supposed to stand for is the concept of "innocent until proven guilty".

Don't be hard on yourself. If you're really interested in suspension design, there are several good introductory books on the subject, and once you understand the basics, the math can be handled by a variety of software applications, some available online. Who knows...if you were to study it, you might come up with something really revolutionary that no one else has thought of yet.

I've told my friends to please NOT EVER just drop in on me. I do stuff that sometimes can require concentration and timing, especially composite work that I simply CAN NOT walk away from in the middle of the process...without ruining the part or mold. DO NOT DROP IN doesn't mean call me from the driveway either, and announce "I don't want to bother you (but I'm here so you're a mean person if you don't drop your life and pay attention to me)". I CARE about my friends. They're good people and I enjoy seeing them, but what's so hard about understanding "do not drop in"?

Even more amazing to me is the incredibly high proportion of REAL cars that come to me after having been "built" or "modified" or "restored" by "professionals" who actually DID get money for the monkey messes they made...in many cases a LOT of money. There's no shortage of ham-handed talent-free and skill-free morons in the world, and no shortage of idiots who have no clue and are willing to pay them. We have a '62 Corvette roadster and a '63 split-window in the shop right now for buildup, both fresh from the body shop, and the front clips on both cars are on crooked. Both of these were very expensive "body-off" jobs, and there's simply NO EXCUSE for this kind of shitt. We also have a Jag S2 E-type roadster just back from another shop, and the front subframe is covered with bondoed-over buckles and snot welds, and 40-grit grinder marks under the paint...on the firewall too. Then there's the little Metropolitan with the Toyota engine swap, and the "professional" chimps that did it have the engine sitting in the car at about a 15-degree angle because they were too stupid to engineer clearance into the front crossmember for the sump...or they just never heard of pinion-angle. Needless to say, the poor little car will vibrate you out of it, and goes through universal joints in about a week. The car owners don't know any better. I swear, if somebody tried to pass that crapp on me...well, let's just say I'd be less than politely forgiving

No worries. Just a thought...people who build REAL cars (and who actually know what they're doing...which isn't all that common really) generally work out the car's stance using the tire's outside diameter. You then look at aspect ratio of the tires that are available in the diameters you want, to determine what rim diameters you can get to work with the look you're after, and that will work with technical things like clearance for brake calipers, etc. As I noted above, what you have there equates to a 26" front tire diameter and a 30" rear tire diameter, or pretty damm close, in 1/25. Quite reasonable sizes for a staggered fitment on a real car.

Perhaps you're not aware PayPal has a "pay AFTER delivery" option, AND a money-back guarantee if you're ripped? I haven't lost a nickel since 2003.

It is nice if they call you BEFORE they decline a charge. Back in 2009 I got stuck halfway across the country on a road trip with no way to buy gas or lodging until I got the card mess sorted. Since then, I always carry plenty of US cash...still accepted almost everywhere.

Yes, very nicely done. Foil work on the side windows looks especially good. Love these in 1:1 too.

So then you understand that without measuring the "rims" themselves you can't possibly know the "rim diameters", right? I'm sure you also know that "rim diameters" are actually sized to the hole in the tire, which is usually about 1.25 to 1.5" smaller than the outside diameter of the rim. So as correctly pointed out in another recent thread, the rims need to have about 1 to 1.5 scale inches deducted from the outside diameter measurement to get the correct size, right? We can say "about" and "looks like" and "I think..." till the hot place freezes over, but without measuring, it's hopeless. If you have a digital caliper and a calculator, knowing the outside diameter of the tires, you can very EASILY figure the outside diameters of the rims from the images on your screen...by the way.

Pretty cool. The Inch Pincher and the Deano Dyno Soar were the two Bugs that got me lusting after one for my first car. Oh...and the Lightning Bug... I couldn't afford much in power-makers early on, but less weight = more go, so I gutted the poor thing, taking out every bit of sound deadening and non-essential other weight. It was like driving an enraged steel trash can.

Looks GOOD. Love the colors, and the hood hinge springs and the wire bail on the master cylinder really add to the engine bay realism. I have an old, OLD gluebomb version of this I really need to get back on.

Need to clarify some terms. First, SCALE is simply a fraction. A part that is 1/25 (1:25) scale is one twenty-fifth the size of the real one. Twenty five little cars in 1/25 (1:25) scale would be as long as one real one...OK? Second, the TIRE is the black part. The WHEEL is the center part, usually metal on a real car. If the diameter of the TIRES is 26 mm "tall", then they would be about 26" (short for 26 inches) tall in 1/25 scale...and here's a handy tip: 1 mm is about one scale inch (1") in 1/25 scale. The rear tires, at 30 mm "tall" (the diameter) would be about 30" (inches) "tall". These diameters are about right for a set of staggered wheels / tires on a 1/25 scale model. But we STILL don't have enough information to know what size the WHEELS are...unless we measure them like you measure a REAL WHEEL and multiply by 25. Make sense?

Look up "sociopath".

I don't know how your kit availability is over there, but the Revell '48 Ford woody has a nice stock engine and can be had for less than a resin engine alone over here. The Revell '48 Ford convertible also has the stock engine plus period speed parts (finned heads, etc.) and can be found quite cheaply too.

That's for a '56. 1950 was the first-gen Bel Air (as per the OP's request) and unfortunately uses an entirely different door shell. Though "Bel Air" is a model / trim designation, the inner steel panels will be pretty much the same across the Chebby line, and across much of the GM line that's built on the same platform. Here's a '49-'50-'51. You said "front" door, so I assume you need a 4-door door.

Good looking wheel. That could really make a semi-traditional hot-rod something special.

Yes, it is definitely a GT40. The MkIII was the "street" version, but ex-race cars made it to the roads as well. GT40s were used as camera cars during on-track filming too.

Are you SURE about this? I just logged on to the other place and checked "chopperlover". He's been on since March 16, only has 3 posts so far and doesn't have any bio or profile info up yet, far as I could tell. There doesn't seem to be a way to search for a particular member's content over there, and I was only able to pull up two of his listed posts. Neither one mentioned trade items. So...are you absolutely SURE about this assertion?

I'd buy a bunch of those. Nice to be able to put modern rubber under a traditional car and kinda keep the look...

For a 1/4 scale sprint car... There are some billet 1:1 IRS chunks too...just not with the QC feature (that I'm aware of anyway)...

No religious message implied, but it might be nice to take a moment to think about what the holiday is supposed to signify, and maybe take something forward to try, just a little bit, to make the world a better place to live in. Now for the chocolate bunnies...