Ace-Garageguy

All the 5-window Revell coupes came with the Hemi, far as I know. Get this box art...you can't go wrong.(FYI: they did something odd with the exhaust port spacing. The ports should be evenly spaced.)

Bummer. Another icon gone. http://customrodder.forumactif.org/t1518-bo-huff-a-documentary-of-his-life-custom-cars-musicgirls

Seriously guys...you can get 17 clowns in that thing.

i recognize that one.

It takes 10 to 30 seconds to post a photo. Doesn't seem hard after you do it a few times, and I've been doing it just like that since 2012.

That's the way I look at it, anyway.

Some days I really wish that 40 years ago, I'd got myself a gubmint job where I did basically nuthin', and then voted myself a way to continue getting paid for doing absolutely nuthin' when I retired. Sour grapes? Damm right.

Another one of those fine situations where what's legal has nothing whatsoever to do with what's morally right and ethical. Kill it if you're going to eat it, and NEED to eat it. Otherwise, get up close and take a photo.

A fitting end for the great white hunter... (who collects trophies for "sport" as opposed to hunting game for food)

You can scale from the pix I put up. Measure the headlight diameter in the photos. They're standard 7" sealed beams. On my monitor, the upper one is .481". The lower one is .787". Divide 7" by .481". That will give you about 14.5, making the upper photo about 1/14 scale. Divide 7" by .787". That will give you about 8.89, making the lower photo about 1/9 scale. Now measure the distance from the center of the headlights to the outer edges of the fenders. The upper is .485". multiply by 14, to get approximately 6.79" in full scale. The lower is 1.61". Multiply by 9 to get approximately 14.49" in full scale. That tells you the Big Job fender is roughly 7" wider than the F-100. 7" in 1/25 scale is around 7mm, or about 1/4 inch. I'm sure this is a close as Revell gets most things these days. Of course, if you think carefully about the parallax effect of the slightly different angles the photos are taken from, and you hold your math to tighter tolerances than I just did, you can get more accurate results.

My own procrastination. Though I did a fair bot of necessary work around the place over the weekend, I put off doing my shop paperwork until now. Just like I did with homework when I was a kid. Now I get to stay up half the night getting it finished...just like when I was a kid.

Even though the temps have been in the low 90s, the humidity is right now a season-low of 37%. Almost as nice here as it is out West. Man, I miss Arizona...especially those gorgeous sunsets like Ed posted. We get one like that here maybe once a year...if ever.

Try 70% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol as a cleaner. I've had excellent performance from it removing every surface contaminant know to man...so far.

Geez Harry. That's only 8 years. I've got plenty of in-progress builds way older than that, and the right reference photo just might change everything.

While the lion thing has everyone all hot and bothered, how many of you are aware that the Chinese trade in poached black-market body parts of endangered species for their medicine, and that the recent trend is hoarding of tiger and other animal parts as "investments" ? Story here...and this is nothing new... http://www.takepart.com/feature/2015/03/24/china-endangered-species-banking-extinction-poaching-elephants-tigers-rhinos

This is a conversion i've been wanting to do as well. I've collected several reference photos of the 800 cab, and it's pretty obvious the fenders need to be widened outboard of the grille opening, as well as having the wheel openings opened up considerably. The width of the grille appears to be the same, judging from the relationship of the headlights to the hood shut-lines. F-100 F-800 / Big Job cab & fenders

This is also the "wet-look" 1834 product, again not sanded or buffed. I should have sanded the clear between coats to avoid the rolling of the edges on the door-lines. The product builds well, and I was thinking I could sand it a little flatter afterwards. If you're needing to use a lot of coats (this is 5), I'd recommend at least experimenting with the 28139. I'm on the way to my LHS to see if I can get some to play with.

The "ultra-gloss" is part of the basecoat-clearcoat 2-stage "Custom Lacquer System". #28139. It may possibly be formulated differently to use over the specific basecoats in the line. I haven't used it yet. My guess is it's a lower-viscosity than the "wet-look" product, because it's intended to be used over multiple basecoats. Lower viscosity would mean less film thickness on the final job, less likely to obscure and fill details. The "wet-look-clear" #1834 is part of the "One Coat Lacquer" system. I've used this product extensively, and it has a good build, needs about 3 coats to be safe to wetsand and polish (assuming it's not orange-peeled), and sands and polishes to a very nice gloss. Then there's "Gloss Clear Lacquer" , "all-purpose" #1261, with which I have no experience. Trying to find hard info on the actual differences can be discouraging. Here's the useless Testors website. http://www.testors.com/ This is the as-sprayed "wet-look" #1834 product...no sanding or polishing.

Just passing along some great ideas from folks in the community here.

Lotsa guys use the clear or tinted plastic from big pop bottles. Other guys use clear or tinted plastic report covers, styrene from the hobby shop (if you have one around) or clear or tinted acetate. Depending on how much curvature your 'glass' needs to have, you might try this... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/40824-no-windshield-no-problem-drink-up/ Here's a thread about vacuum-forming compound-curve windshields from the pop-bottle stuff. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/58564-replacement-windshield-heat-formed/ I haven't done a finished big clear part yet, but the green from a ginger ale bottle worked great for this...

Very interesting, unusual and imaginative...and I really like the overall lines.

I've bought most of these over the years, thinking to do something like some of you guys have already built---detailed models with engines and interiors. Several of them seem to be great starting points for wild customs.

Maybe a liquid mask brushed carefully on the rim and ribs, then spray the dark color, remove the mask?

Nice. I remember having this kit back in the dim recesses of time, and I've been kinda looking for another one. Good to know it comes with an OHV Ford option now, too.

Kewt little trucklet. Very French.