Ace-Garageguy

Of course, if I can clear some real-life BS out of the way. Somehow I haven't been able to focus on model-building lately, because of one lingering kinda big-deal problem. If I can clear the negotiations soon, I can get back to some bench-time. I'd really like to finish the '28 lakes car. It's close.

This thread has got me kinda fired and wired to do quick bashups of more accurate full-fendered '34 Fords using bits from all the AMT kits and the chopped Revell snapper. The good AMT frame (5W & sedan) is a plenty good enough base (I'll do some measuring to verify that statement too), so it's basically some "sheetmetal" mods. I currently have access to an original '34 3-window, in the shop, gutted, so measuring what needs to be corrected is a snap.

The 5.0 DOHC Coyote engine is probably what you'd want then. It's based on the "modular" engine architecture, and in real-life, the mounts and bellhousing bolt pattern are the same as earlier modular engines (and it's available from Ford as a crate engine, as well as junkyard sourcing, having been in production for 6 years or so). One of the late-model Mustang kits has a good Coyote, but I don't know which kit...yet. Here's some dimensions to see if it will fit your engine bay. If you can't make the numbers out, download it and blow it up in photoviewer. The resolution's good enough.

It shares nothing with the quite good (even though it's ancient) AMT '28 roadster, and my understanding is that it's an MPC tool. Who knows the real deal?

I honestly hope the '28-29 roadster and the '30-'31 coupe (assuming we get it) are both out-of-the-park home runs. I WANT them to be successful, and I WANT to buy multiples because they're so good. So I hope they're really really good. And IF they're really really good, and the vocal critics like me buy multiples because we're so dammed impressed with Revell's work, and if everybody else buys a bunch of them...as they're apparently doing with the '57 Ford wagon...maybe Revell (or somebody) will seriously consider doing a GOOD '34 3-window. Many many modelers have wanted a new-tool model-A for a long time (and a source of styrene traditional rod bits), and it's finally almost here. Maybe it's the start of lotsa good things to come.

X2. Your rusty crusty builds are among the best I've seen in the style. Nice going.

This vintage of Ford truck is about my favorite of all time, and I really like the heavier-rated versions that you're doing. I've seen a fair bit of your previous work and have no doubt you'll nail this one too. I've been wanting to do a 350 race-car hauler myself, so i'll be watching your work with much interest.

Love that model, Mr. Welda. Did you do a reproduction store display too, or find an original somewhere?

Yes, I have an old Monogram "Long John" dragster, and the scaling is questionable as to being 1/24 as well...particularly the wheels / tires. Though 18" rear rims were common on Indy roadsters of the era, 16" diameter rims were common on drag racing vehicles.

This is very simple. We "complain at inaccuracies in a $22.00 kit" because that small cheap kit is the product of a team of well-paid professionals whose job it is to produce an accurate manufactured product, and to get little things like the scale part of scale model right. We "laud the efforts of those capable of correcting major deficiencies in an extinct $444.00 kit" because just for love of the hobby and getting it right for no other reason than personal pride in their workmanship, they do so. However, it would seem that a company producing models in the multi-hundred dollar range might be driven to get it right too, but apparently not always. The lack of ability to measure accurately and divide by the working scale must cross all monetary and language boundaries, and be a slave to no particular ethnicity or creed.

Hmmm...perhaps I misunderstood. Do you want the old " smallblock" Windsor pushrod V8 that ended its life as the 5.0 (302) / 351W EFI engine (phased out of the car line in '96 and gone from the truck / SUV platforms by 2001) or a late-model EFI engine of similar displacement? The pushrod Windsor is, of course, still available in various displacements as a crate engine from Ford Racing. So...you could go either way here. Kinda depends on what your definition of "late model" is.

And all this time I thought that was me. Your paranoia is showing, Tom.

Modular 2 and 4 cam engines (in Mustang kits) and the later "Coyote" engine are EFI (though I don't know which kits have which engines yet).The AMT Phantom Vickie has a nice modular 4-cam EFI engine too.

Yes, and therein lies more of the problem, and I should have elaborated. Which kit came first...5-window or sedan? If it was the 5W to be tooled first, what happened? If I recall correctly, the only difference in 1:1 '33 and '34 front passenger car fenders is how they're shaped to fit the grille-shells. Since AMT realized the frame tooling could be used for both cars, I never understood why, to get the '33 version of the sedan, they just didn't modify the pretty good '34 fenders to fit the '33 grille-shell, and copy the shape of the 5W cowl exactly. Modify the rear fenders slightly to fit the Tudor sedan body, if required. Same thing to get the '34 version of the sedan, but of course, use the 5W front fenders, grille, cowl shape and hood, and simply modify the rear fenders if required. On the other hand, if the '33 sedan came first, the '34 5W is a vast improvement. Which way did it happen??

Actually, none. The engine represented in the kit doesn't exist in reality. It's a liberally interpreted, much scaled-down version of an old aircraft engine.

I agree. I find the illustrations to be a lot more appealing than the photos. I mean...I REALLY WANT TO BUILD THIS...

Did the AMT '55 have poseable steering? I know the AMT '55 Nomad did (but it has a different fuel tank, etc.).

It seems that quite often, having a great big head goes along with having a tiny, tiny brain.

To elaborate on this a little...many of us get outstanding results using Duplicolor or PlastiKote primers made for real-car use, available at auto-parts stores. These primers come in a range of colors, typically gray, red, black and white. They also come in two 'thicknesses'. There's "high-build" (also called "scratch filling") primer that's ideal over heavy bodywork, and there's "sandable" primer (from both companies) that goes on much thinner and doesn't obscure fine details like the "high-build" products can. These primers can be 'hotter" than those made for models, and sometimes may craze the surface of the plastic you're working with, so testing on a non-visible part (or sprue) of EACH model you're working on is a good idea BEFORE you commit to using anything on a particular kit. This is the Duplicolor "high-build" gray over lots of heavy bodywork.

Looks like heaven to me...

http://www.round2models.com/models/amt/32-ford-victoria http://www.round2models.com/models/amt/ford-coupe Links to the Round2 site, proclaiming "newly tooled" parts. I believe'em, because there are differences between the originals in my collection and the new ones. Reworking the existing '34 5-window body shell into a good 3-window shouldn't be that difficult, really...assuming all the data for the 5-window exists in CAD form still.

If you look at Harry's content and read his current build-thread, you'll see he's been having some eye problems lately.

What about the recently re-issued AMT (Round2) '36 Ford (late 2013, I believe) and the '32 Vicky (March 2015), with included parts from the early issues (that haven't been available for years) back-engineered and newly tooled? I believe there are others...

The front is kinda odd too...

Beautiful model to start with, beautiful work as always. To get it to actually function, as in 'stop the car', wouldn't you have to train a rat or other critter to depress the brake pedal? Anything about that in the instructions?