Ace-Garageguy

Lots of clean looking mods and fabrication going on here. Reminds me of a John Teresi project or two, and that's a good thing. You seem to have an eye for symmetry too, which is somewhat unusual.

What he said. I have an old corded variable-speed dinosaur, and it's great for removing a lot of material fast...which is helpful if you do heavy mods. The very thin composition cutoff wheels get a lot of use here too. But you DO need to kinda work up to using the old corded units on models. They're powerful for such small tools, turn fast even on low speeds, and will do a lot of damage very fast if not precisely controlled.

I'm sure you're right Steve, but for only $495 you can have your very own model of the current production (unbelievable) 4-door beauty. http://www.zimmermotorcars.com/index.php?page=your-very-own-model Wow. I want 3 of 'em.

Hmmm...unless I'm reading-impaired, the OP doesn't want a kit of the first car...the Panther DeVille (crapppy Bugatti clone). He wants a model of the second car, the one his nephews saw on the TV series "Once Upon a Time"...which is a Zimmer (post 6).

Hows 'bout a custom halftrack without the tracks?

Beautiful, beautiful work.

And now the engineering spec is for a lifespan of 90 days past the end of warranty.

...any damm where you want...

WHOOPEE!!! I've been looking for an XJ-6 in 1:24-1:25 since I bought my 1986 SIII in 1995. YIPEE !!!

The car from "Once Upon a Time" is a Zimmer Golden Spirit coupe. Looks like about a mid-1980's version with a few kustom touches, including the ultra-superfly side-pipes removed from the hood, and somewhat more "tasteful" chrome louvers added instead. Zimmer also built the "Quicksilver", a stretched Fiero (which I actually kinda like), a 4-door thing that looks like the Golden Spirit but with more to love, and some limos (Saudis like 'em). Zimmer Quicksilver You're welcome. The Panther DeVille, by the way, is a "neo-classic" (ugly and poorly-proportioned) copy of the Bugatti Royale.

Really depends on which part of the mockup I'm doing, and whether it's going to have to be handled during fitting of more components. Rubber cement, Elmers White glue (or other PVA glues), Elmer's Glue Pen, and regular liquid cement (just a TINY drop) all get used during fitting and mockup on my bench.

You just never know with the US TSA. They've reportedly confiscated nail clippers, Play Dough and honey. God only knows what kind of terrorist act someone could commit with a model car.

Proportions look good. You may already know...in reality, the '32 truck cab is the same as the '34 truck cab except for a different firewall and a different body-line stamped in the rear cab wall. So you've pretty much built a '32 pickup...which isn't available otherwise. Nice job so far.

Oh...this is cool ! I'd LOVE to see the reaction if somebody actually showed up with a well-set-up drift-prepped Pacer. Put a really quiet but nonrestrictive exhaust under it, go out and eat some weenies' lunches. Only little problem might be the weight of all that fishbowl glass up high wanting to make the car roll too much, but judicious use of Lexan or plex would solve that nicely.

Yup. What gives it away (though it does have a strong resemblance to an NSU Prinz, also heavily influenced by the styling of the first Corvairs) is the scoops on the quarter panels and the round taillights.

Boy, that's a rare bird. Looks great. Clean. I've been told these are slightly over-scale. What do you think?

Pretty little truck !

A friend of mine in his early 40s who builds real hot-rods had much better luck finding buyers for his cars posting on Instagram than other social media, for some reason. That's all I know about it.

Unfortunately, there's no way to get the "rod" out after you bend the tube. The tube will collapse enough to clamp the rod securely inside forever. The only decent results I've had with this method is to use plastic rod that is, like Nick suggests, very close to the ID of the tube you're trying to bend. Position a short piece of rod where the bend will be, so you can't see it inside the stack after it's bent and cut to final length. You'll need to think and experiment, because the tube will naturally try to bend and collapse where the inserted rod ends. Cut to final length AFTER you bend it, by the way. For these small diameter tubes, I've NEVER had good luck with the spring-type wire-wound benders on any kind of sharp radius. They simply are not strong enough to support tubing bends sharp enough for stacks and headers, usually. They also get bound-up on sharp radii and are almost impossible to remove without damage. And sand is simply too coarse to do you any good on very small diameter tube. It IS possible to fill small tubes with molten "fixturing alloy", let it harden, make your bend, and melt it out again. Kind of a PITA for model work, but you can buy it here. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-3877&PMPXNO=949471&PARTPG=INSRHI I've READ that filling the tube with water and freezing it will prevent kinking, but I have NOT tried it. It's worth a shot. The lever type benders will work...to a point...but are difficult to find in sizes small enough to work with scale model car tubing. I routinely use this type forming brake and fuel lines on real cars, but only down to 1/4 or 3/16 inch diameters. This one from Harbor Freight will bend down to 1/8 inch, but you see how it's not a tight radius that you'd need on a model car exhaust or intake stack. I've been getting around to machining a much smaller version of this to experiment with, but haven't so far. This is the idea. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/24051-A-tube-bender-saga You MAY be able to find a commercial one that will work on small stuff, but I haven't yet. You'll have a MUCH easier time forming your parts from solid styrene rod (and drilling the ends if you need them to appear to be tubing) or solder. This is a bench version (NOT MY DESIGN OR WORK) of a simple tool for bending fairly sharp radii in small tube also. The pin sticking up secures the tube, while the lever rolls the bend around rollers. Not so hard to make if you only need one radius and one diameter.

There was a guy on the bay a few years back that I bought a '61 Dodge Pheonix (Johan repop) from. One of the absolutely nicest resin kits I've ever seen, period. He just seems to have evaporated, too.

Always wanted to see one of these built. Sure wish it was 1/25 though. I'd get several. When Revell introduced these 1/32 scale 1950s US cars and trucks, the full-scale hot-rod mags did a lot of articles on using them to work out ideas on real vehicles before committing to the expensive metal work. Don't get discouraged by people who say they're difficult. Take your time, fit things carefully, and you'll have a very nice model at the end.

Exactly. Bondo 2-part "professional" filler is all I use these days (except for Squadron green for TINY imperfections). Works great every time, if you mix it right. Too little hardener and it takes forever to cure (maybe never). Too much and it will usually kick before you get in on the model. It can also overheat if it's on thick (with too much hardener) and that could possibly be your warp problem. Also can be hard to sand. WAY too much hardener, and it may stay rubbery. This is exactly the same stuff that comes in the smaller package #801 above. Sands beautifully, feather-edges well, adheres well, and doesn't shrink. Most of the surfaces of this model were shaped using the Bondo 2-part "professional" putty.

I'm really looking forward to watching this play out. I just bought a Revell Dodge VTS to use the chassis under a custom, slammed 2002 single-cab, and had thought about using the Raminator or Rammunition kit as the basis for the body, like you. Interesting project.

Koolio. You sure don't see these built very often any more. I recall that the decals were difficult when these things were new, many moons ago. Nice job getting them on, intact, and symmetrical. Neat little car.