Ace-Garageguy

It's been working for US car manufacturers for years...

Danged if it dont make ya wunder, dont it?

No. It's Stacey David's "Rat Roaster", the prototype for the Revell model, and never an AMBR winner

I'll mos' likely be in line for a bank truck too. Visions of a chopped, channeled, twin-Allison powered LSR money van... And the more I look at those '29 photos, the more I really hope they got everything right. If they're as good as the '50 Olds and the '57 Ford, we have a sure winner. Man, I hope so.

I'd probably be on board for several as well. I bought some Airfix 1/24 Spits and P-51s to rob engines from, but I honestly kinda hate to waste the remainder of the kits. Nice to be able to build the planes and have Merlins for car projects too.

I didn't touch manufactured models between about '69 and 2005 (except for a couple I was given but didn't work on in about '95), and according to Casey, it seems I didn't miss much. I've been of the impression there's been a new "golden age" going since I've been back in it, what with all the excellent stuff coming from Moebius, Revell, and the aftermarket, plus vintage kits and reissues of lotsa old favorites...and everything only a mouse-click away.

Guess i should be all like "whoopee", but I've been building traditional A-bones on Model A and Deuce rails for years (models AND full scale), bought up every old Revell parts-pack nailhead and Ivo Showboat I could get my hands on, as well as the old parts-pack roadster stuff for wishbones, axles, brake backing plates, and QC rear ends, plus a mess of Revell Challenger 1 kits for Buick finned drums, and a pile of old Revell woodies for the excellent frame and axles. Should be interesting to see how all the newie stuff compares to some of the absolutely excellent old stuff. Sounds like a great bunch of kitbashing goodies, at least. Sure hope they got it right. I also hope the kit is a huge seller, 'cause it sure would be nice to have well-scaled 1/25 '28-'29 and '30-'31 closed car bodies to go with it down the road. A '26-'27 T roadster body would be pretty cool to see too.

VERY sanitary little '29. That old AMT kit can be the basis of some great looking models. It's one of my all-time favorites. Great work...I see the IFS, smallblock Ford V8, recessed firewall, lotsa other subtle mods.

OMG OMG OMG...A SNOWSTORM ??? OMG OMG I'M GOING TO THE STORE NOW !!!!!!!

Click here and follow the prompts. https://adblockplus.org/

Very nice effect. Any chance you'll do a how-to for us?

Wow. Pretty cool score on that oldie. Lotsa chrome on those Ponchos. Have fun BMeffing.

The solenoid you've made there is kinda massively huge. It looks to be about half as big as the battery, and it should really be about a quarter of what you have there.

This should be great fun to watch, as are all your builds. You're one of the slice-n-dice masters, for sure.

Yes Roger, you're absolutely right about the subtle shape inaccuracies on the sides of the Chevy decklid. I noticed it when comparing the photos of a 1:1 Bel Air to the AMT model decklid. The re-shaping is very easy and straightforward if done with round files and round sanding blocks...I've already done it...and there is plenty of material in the AMT body casting to allow for the work to be done without excessive thinning. The decklid cut-line on the AMT Chevy is not symmetrical either, as I'm sure you've noticed. To clarify MY point... the Olds coupe decklid is different from the Olds hardtop decklid in reality, so just because you keep the Revell decklid doesn't mean you have the correct deck for a hardtop. I'm fairly certain that a hardtop deck shouldn't extend as far forward as the Revell Club Coupe deck does, but without having 1:1 cars to measure, it's pointless to argue the matter. Frankly, it's all rather a moot point for me anyway, as I'm building the Olds / Chevy mashup into a '51 Pontiac hardtop...which has the same decklid part number in reality as an Olds hardtop, so the final correction of the Chevy decklid for the Olds will be appropriate for the Pontiac. I do have access to a real '51 Pontiac fastback, and a '50 Olds club coupe, but no hardtops at this point in time.

Mild steel welding rod of the appropriate diameter. 1/16" works for older kits. Brass tubing is also a good substitute, as is wire-core plastic rod. I also use un-cored plastic rod for stub axles.

As always, I thank everyone for your continued interest in this thing. It does help me to keep it going and not go spinning off on some other project. And yes Tom, I got much the same impression of Bonneville as you did. Very unearthly, and distance has no visual reference like we're used to.

Well, if both companies could measure accurately, and divide by 25 accurately, by whatever means and no matter how many years apart, the two SHOULD fit well. Scale is scale, and apparently both companies did their work quite well...happily for us. The fastback conversion I did a few years back fit quite well, also.

If you ever do, be sure to show us your results. My method avoids having to add styrene to the door tops to get them to line up, and avoids what looks like difficult filling very close to details at the bottom of the rear glass. My method also puts all the filling in the body crease where it's relatively easy (for me, anyway), and keeps the windshield frame in one piece, which should make it easier to get the windshield to fit. Your opinion may vary.

Yeah, well...there's this thing called "excessive charge heating" that happens when you supercharge your supercharger with no intercooling or aftercooling or something like water or methanol injection, and instead of more power, all you get is pre-ignition, destructive detonation and holes blown in piston crowns. Cool, huh?

And then there's the baby Bianchina microcar, built on a Fiat 500 platform by a later iteration of the Bianchi company, Autobianchi...

OK...I DID find an online GM '49-'66 interchange manual (posted by the Pontiac Club of Phoenix) and the part numbers for the '50 Olds coupe decklid (the Revell kit) and the hardtop / convertible decklids on the real cars are different. The '50 Olds hardtop / convertible decklid part number is the same as the '50 Pontiac hardtop / convertible decklid. The part number is also different for the Chevy Bel Air (hardtop and convertible), but this could easily be due to different holes in it for trim, different latch attachment, etc. What this means is that the decklid on the Chevy BelAir I used (AMT kit) for the above swap could very easily be correct (or close to it) as the Olds coupe decklid (Revell kit) IS DIFFERENT from the Olds hardtop / convertible in real life. The '50 Olds hardtop and the '50 Chevy Bel Air hardtop decklids look pretty similar to me...though the Olds deck looks like it could be a little fatter, more vertical at the rear, this could also be due to camera angle, as the Chebby is shot from a lower position relative to the car. This is, of course, the kind of thing kit designers are up against when they have only photographs to work from, and no real car for reference.

How about an anonymous "yuck" button?

Yes, the models ARE different. However, in the real world (and according to the classic Olds forum) some of the decklids interchange. So, both the AMT Chevy and the Revell Olds can't be right. It's up to the builder to decide if staying with the Revell deck style is worth the hassle, and to research whether the real-car post-style decklid is even the same as the hardtop. From the Classic Oldsmobile forum... '49-'52 Chev, '49-'52 A body Pontiac, and '49-'51 A body Olds (76 and 88) will interchange to the same body style. 2 and 4 door fast back lids may, or may not, interchange. 2 and 4 door sedan may, or may not, interchange with Holiday (Bel Air and Catalina) and Convertible lids. Coupes (not to be confused with 2 Door Sedans) are all by themselves Zo...my guess is that the hardtop GM decklids are the same across the board (Chevy, A-body Olds and Pontiacs). I don't have an old Hollander interchange manual to verify this, however. Do you?