Ace-Garageguy

Can't tell the trans color, but maybe you can blow up a frame...

Maybe not. I found this black & white assembly line shot of a late flathead (1949 and later, identifiable by the separate bellhousing), and the bellhousing is clearly a different color than the engine or the 3-speed manual gearbox.

Now is the time for mainstream Americans who understand and appreciate everything this country is and what it has to offer to wake up and pay attention...

Either or.

It's a waxy paste you rub on and then buff out with a soft cloth. This was a Q&D test panel I did with the silver leaf while experimenting how to achieve a bare aluminum effect... Below is the finished model. It represents Mickey Thompson's Challenger I before it was painted, when it was introduced to the press in its original non-supercharged form, fresh from the body builder. Rub 'n Buff is thin enough to let any imperfections in the surface show through, so I applied it over a surface that had been lightly sanded, to look like finished alloy skins pre-primer. EDIT: It's probably not as permanent as the Alclad. Ten years after I built the thing, it's dulled noticeably...but it hasn't been in a case either. There's a good chance a light buffing would bring it back. Real bare aluminum would have lightly oxidized somewhat too in 10 years, so I'm not too disappointed.

This one appears to show the engine and gearbox in the late '49 into '50 engine color you're using...

The way things are going, probably e) A sidearm

You know...it's pretty much a one-man operation now, only making wheels and tires. A temporary out-of-stock situation many not in fact be the end of the world. The site is still up and functioning as of a few minutes ago, so I'd suggest not jumping to conclusions until there's more evidence.

Time will tell whether or not the ideas and ideals this nation was founded on will survive.

Wrenched my back somehow on Saturday. Missed a Father's Day car show with friends on Sunday, couldn't work yesterday. Getting better today...but man, damm.

I don't know for certain, BUT... Earlier flathead Ford cast-iron transmissions were painted with the engine, bolted to the engine, the same color as the engine. It's probably a safe bet to think Ford maintained the practice through the end of the flathead run. Though hardly definitive, and not the right color, this '49 brochure illustration appears to show the trans the same color as the engine.

Hard to be absolutely certain, but it looks like what those of us in the real-car paint biz call "solvent popping", usually caused by hammering wet coats when the temp and humidity are both high. It's an entirely different phenomenon from the "blushing" most often encountered under high humidity conditions. Blushing will most always polish off, as it's on the surface. Solvent popping won't, as it's bubbles trapped in the clear. Try to polish it, see if it gets better. If it doesn't it's "solvent popped" and removing it is the only solution. Frustrating, yes...but I've had it happen a couple times on real cars. You want to talk about frustrating...

Truer words were never spoken.

Starter's on backwards, upside down, and the small diameter projection on the kit part should stick into the bellhousing.

Most everyone here knows Modelhaus is finished. But the OP's question is about the tires-only website, which has been in operation.

The insane focus on "growth" that most businesses seem to feel is necessary today is the main driver. To these idiots, it's just not enough to have a smooth-running machine that turns out trainloads of cash.

Big Mommy requires them to report "earnings" to the tax man. It's as simple as that.

Being "adult children", some will throw their models against the wall rather than dealing constructively with problems if they occur, and the term has more to do with emotional incontinence, rather widespread today as also evidenced by the easily "triggered", than with simply having an interest in a creative and sometimes complex and technically-demanding hobby.

Different tapes do different jobs. Blue tapes are designed primarily for latex paints, not for hotter solvent-based paints. Sometimes you can get away with using the blue stuff, sometimes not. Most likely, enough solvent wicked through the blue stuff to disturb the Testors lacquer underneath...but why there's no tape adhesive residue on the black is baffling, as solvents usually cause it to become tacky and transfer to the surface. I also don't understand why Tamiya paint solvents would wick through their own tape that's supposedly designed to be compatible. I suspect there might be something more to the story. Whatever the exact cause is, I use masking tapes designed for real cars and never have any issues like this...but I'd also give the first color more than overnight before two-toning. Les is right though...the minimum it's going to take to correct it is to sand the black flat and re-shoot it...and there's a chance those lines will still ghost back through as it drys.

'57 Chebby continental kits don't all look the same. Both of these examples are relatively easily scratchbashed using your existing kit components and a little styrene.