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Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy
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"Sealers" for real cars are intended to discourage solvent penetration from color coats into primers, which in turn reduces sand-scratch swelling and gloss "die-back" as the color shrinks. They can also help prevent "feather edge" lifting, which can be a real nightmare when painting real cars over some unknown substrate. This is why, in general, real-car "sealers" are not supposed to be sanded, as sanding tends to diminish the barrier effect.
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It's been around forever, but none of them are universally available all the time. Besides the light gray, there's dark gray "hot rod primer", red oxide, black, and white in the "sandable" line. They can all be too "hot" for some of today's garbage soft styrene formulations, causing surface crazing if shot too wet. The "self etching" primers are generally hotter still. The "scratch filling" line of primers are also sandable, but build quite high, possibly obscuring fine surface details.
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Assembled kits can often be bought for a small fraction of what unmolested ones bring.
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Manners are dependent on one's culture of origin; for instance, belching after a meal is OK in some.
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Off or on...make up your mind.
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"Is" doesn't necessarily mean what you usually think it means. https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/is
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I'd rather paint a clear insulator on every electrical plug, including ethernet and USB, and lightbulb sockets and bases.
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It was derived from this set of designs... http://www.madle.org/exjspy.htm http://www.madle.org/exjspynx.htm http://www.madle.org/exjimp.htm http://www.madle.org/exjaero.htm http://www.madle.org/exjxspynx.htm ...etc.
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“Barn Find” C-cab street rod from Australia
Ace-Garageguy replied to LDO's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
All the first generation Olds OHV V8 engines (303-324-371-394) are very similar visually, because they're all just different displacements of the same basic design. The '50 Olds 303 has siamesed center exhaust ports, IIRC, while later engines have them split. Later (324 on up) engines have a 3-bolt center exhaust port flange instead of 2...but nobody is going to notice in 1/25 scale. -
“Barn Find” C-cab street rod from Australia
Ace-Garageguy replied to LDO's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Looks to have Jag-based independent rear suspension, judging from the dual coilovers. Jag hubs, halfshafts, fabricated tubular lower and trailing links, probably a Jag diff. -
Yes, that will work fine. I'd recommend an epoxy resin that's rated at least "30 minutes". The 5-minute stuff really doesn't wet out the cloth or adhere well enough in my experience. And thanks.
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I haven't done a Nova, but the '70 Chevelle I did is the identical procedure. Carefully make your cut measurements, keep your cut lines square and parallel. Come straight down with the top panel. And you don't want to lengthen the roof on these, as some think is necessary. It ruins the proportions and makes the car look squashed. You can lean the A-pillars to line up again fairly easily, but I made new ones from styrene stock. Stronger and cleaner. Because of the inward tilt of the sail panels (C-pillars), they won't line up at all, but if you haven't taken out too much material, there will be enough contact area to glue them back together...and let them dry thoroughly. Reinforce the inside of the C-pillar joint. I use very fine fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Then reshape the rear window and quarter window openings into smooth curves. This may require adding styrene stock to the openings. The outer surfaces of the C-pillars will need to be smoothed. I accomplished it by adding styrene sheet to the area above the step between the upper and lower cut areas, letting it set hard, then filing/sanding to shape. This method ends up requiring almost zero filler. The shape of the trailing edges of the sail panels will need to be addressed, and each one shaped into a smooth curve as well. Make sure both sides match. The original clear styrene windows can be carefully reshaped to fit the modified openings, or clear PET or styrene sheet replacements are easily made using paper templates traced from the openings. Prime and paint as usual. The only progress shot of mine I could find quickly: And done:
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CCKW
Ace-Garageguy replied to Chariots of Fire's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
Having researched these things for a build of my own, I know. Beautiful work, as always. -
Atlantis kits?
Ace-Garageguy replied to Sidney Schwartz's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
And still better, by far, than most of what's been tooled this century (though they're not without some glaring errors too). -
Ace-Garageguy or early Ford enthusiast:
Ace-Garageguy replied to R. Thorne's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
To answer your original question, I really don't know what the can on the A/SR cammer-powered car is. The photo is kinda blurry, and the plumbing can't be seen. But I'd guess it's either an oil mist/vapor catch can, or a coolant burp can. Being a leftover from a previous engine installation is extremely unlikely on any kind of competently prepared competition car. IF it's an oil mist/vapor catch can, it would most likely be plumbed to a location on the engine similar to the old "road draft tube". It's also possibly an oil mist catch can for a manual gearbox vent. It wouldn't be an oil filter, as the old Ford style is not a full-flow type and would be completely inadequate for a cammer engine. And as you and Mark point out, the Ford FE block the cammer is based on positions the full-flow filter at the lower LH forward corner of the block. Any auxiliary filters (or relocated for possible frame clearance issues), or coolers, would most likely be plumbed into that location, using lines with a minimum of 5/8" OD. FYI: https://www.diyford.com/ford-fe-engine-oiling-system-complete-guide/ It's also unlikely to be a cool-can, mounted so far aft, far away from the Moon tank, and close to an under-header heat source. And of course the "beehive" unit is definitely a housing for the old-style bypass (non-full-flow) oil filter used on flatheads, but the type is always positioned high enough to encourage gravity return of filtered oil to the engine. -
You'll be in my prayers. You have many friends here who'll miss you..
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Help identifying this kit
Ace-Garageguy replied to Scott8950's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Yup, this kit with odd "euro" headlights. The ones you show in the photo below the car are stock. -
Several Japanese manufacturers make metal scribing guides with various radius curves, circles, and other shapes. Some are specialized for specific kits (but can be used on others of course), and some are generic. Examples below. They are used by securely taping them to the work piece, and gently following the desired shape with multiple passes of the appropriate scribing tool. They're similar in appearance to the old-school draftsman's "eraser shields", which I've used for scribing as well.
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modeling stuff to do / see during a US visit
Ace-Garageguy replied to eran_k's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
5 Vegas car museums... https://vegasfoodandfun.com/las-vegas-car-museums/ -
SLEEPING 'Auto Pilot': California Dreamin'
Ace-Garageguy replied to 1972coronet's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
You a pilot? I am, and I can tell you that an automated landing of a single aircraft in closely controlled airspace, always with humans in the cockpit and on the ground monitoring the descent, is an entirely different thing than computers driving vehicles on streets populated by large numbers of dozy, unpredictable humans and other vehicles in the immediate environment. The automated landing systems require a human pilot to be awake and aware constantly in the event of a system failure of any kind, and pilots flying aircraft equipped with automated landing capability are usually drilled exhaustively in system-failure procedures. Comparing self-driving cars to automated landing systems isn't comparing apples and oranges; it's more like comparing bowling balls to manatees. Honest people within the self-driving development community admit the reality of 100% autonomy is still well in the future, and is turning out to be much harder than initially imagined. EDIT: NTSB's conclusion regarding the incident linked above: "Over-reliance on automation and lack of systems understanding by the pilots were cited as major factors contributing to the accident" which nicely sums up most crashes involving today's level of "autonomous" surface vehicles as well. EDIT 2: Computers and AI will get there, but they aren't there yet.