Ace-Garageguy

It does look good...unless the manifold extending a couple of scale inches beyond the back of the heads bothers you as much as it does me. Possibly the suggestion made above of just changing out intake manifolds is the best solution.

Yeah, the engine in that kit is an awful lump. If memory serves, there's a decent 351C in the old AMT '74 or so Cougar. Not in much demand, can be found cheap. EDIT: Oops. Few years ago nobody wanted 'em. Now they're expensive.

Brian's got it.

Nice job on a kit that's not at all easy.

Atlantis currently repops some subject matter, in these cases old Revell kits, simply not available anywhere else. I have these, and they're good kits for a competent modeler. The Martin P6M Seamaster means a lot to me, as my father worked on the program. I still have two of HIS models of it from the period, and an Atlantis repop to build for myself. The Allison gas turbine kit also means a lot to me, as it was part of my introduction to non-piston aircraft engines. Far as car models go, Atlantis is repopping some truly classic Revell "parts-pack" sprues, and putting them together into kits almost identical to what I built in the 1960s, and learned a great deal from. Original double kit: Repop from original tooling:

The video posted is Graveyard Cars. And I'm assuming the cars YOU build always work perfectly on their shakedown drives.

PM sent 11:06 AM, Monday, Jan 23, 2023

There's this thing called "alphabetization". Works for me. Just tag an image with a simple reminder name as you save it. Like "Pontiac engine top 64" I can find anything in my tens of thousands of references in, quite literally, a few seconds.

Vodka, breakfast of champions.

Fish can be spelled "ghoti" if you use some of the weird spellings in other English words.

Or anyone more devoid of design talent than "Bad Chad"?

For guys who know what they're doing, there are indeed deals to be had for the "good stuff". But for the typical online "price shopper", you might as well burn your money as buy some of the total junk that's out there. One Delphi fuel pump I bought recently retails for around $300, over $500 from a source that "specializes" in the car it goes in. I found the same part # online, NOS, in the box with all the right identification and casting marks that prove it's legit for $125, shipped. Chinee knockoffs "just as good" for $25. Really? Not in something I have to stand behind...or rely on.

Agreed.

Hacked up gluebomb bits on a Viper chassis...

Levels of proficiency or acquired skill are more dependent on innate ability or talent than on practice; some folks will just never be good enough to play Carnegie Hall, no matter how long and hard they pound the piano.

I don't have specifically what you need, but I've been doing lotsa different Google image searches for ca '65 Pontiac block details, 3X2bbl hose routing, linkage, stuff like that, and there's tons of pix of all of it...but you often need to try several different search terms to get the best results.. I wouldn't bother with most of the other search engines though. Sorry as I am to say it, DuckDuck in particular is pretty useless for any hard technical images.

Yup. Dispose of the old batteries, obviously, then use a solution of baking soda and water, with a small "acid brush" (hardware store) to clean and neutralize the leakage goo. Lightly polish the contacts with a pointed emery board if necessary (always a good idea), then spray it all down with something like LPS or CRC contact cleaner. I like to use a little "bulb grease" (car parts store) on the contacts prior to putting in fresh batteries. I've fixed countless things in similar or worse condition, from flashlights to key fobs and cameras. Assuming the corrosion hasn't wicked into anything internal, that ought to do it. EDIT: In a pinch, brake cleaner spray is a decent residue-free contact cleaner, but it will often attack paint and plastic, so think about what you're doing first.

I can't honestly say. After having some really unpleasant experiences using customer-supplied (interwebs or cheap-line parts-store aftermarket stuff), I only buy OEM if I can get it, or top-line parts store bits. Even then, most everything is "offshore" sourced today, and QC isn't always what it should be. Buying anything today is a crapshoot, so I always buy what I think is the best quality I can find, from "name" manufacturers or old-stock OEM. My time is simply too valuable to waste it making parts fit that don't, or replacing garbage that doesn't work. And if I DO end up with a bad part, if I bought it locally, I can get a replacement or reimbursement TODAY, not some time in the future, if ever, from an interdwerb seller. Bottom line: these days you rarely get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get. Quality costs.

Yup, that's it in a nutshell. In not that long, all the ultra-cool-modren-hot-hip-happening-be-there-or-be-square crapp will just be more obsolete "quaint" relics, and all the folks who think they're so leading-edge-with-it today will just be another generation of old men shouting at clouds.

Lot of 'em seem to have problems using round things...globes, balls, phone dials, clocks, anything with wheels that isn't self-propelled...

Good thing you don't have to watch it then, huh? Thing is...they do really good work and pass on useful knowledge, which is my primary judgement criteria.

"Transmission interrupted; please stand by for a message from Matrix Central"