Ace-Garageguy

Without doubt one of the best looking cars ever built. Fine job, most attractive interior colors, wire wheels look right at home.

Nice project. Always liked the Viper, but hated most of the wheels that get put on it...especially those horrible early 3-spoke jobs. A real track car would most likely run lightweight forged 18-inchers, and there are plenty of those represented in scale.

Looks like you had an altercation with that tire shredder gizmo on ol' James Bomb's Aston Martin.

I think I'll just sit the rest of this one out.

Slight digression...my last ex would go to Home Despot to get a list of stuff I'd give her (to fix things in her house), inevitably bring back everything wrong (because she'd ask the zit-faced twink what to get to repair a problem rather than buying what I'd listed in excruciating detail), and then scream at ME when I said everything was all wrong and dammit, I'll just go get it myself. Her logic? "Well...HE WORKS THERE!!! So HE KNOWS BETTER than YOU!!!"

This guy's really good. But the thing I enjoy most about watching him is you can tell he loves what he's doing...and that makes all the difference.

Thanks for your interest. I'm kinda wanting to do the thing like you'd build a real car, but not having any representation of a frame under the promo, I need a donor. The '66-'68 big Ford frames are, if I'm not mistaken, the same design, so the AMT '66 Galaxie should be a suitable starting point for reasonable cost. Thing is though, as Mr. Cassidy's version is so much smaller, Id like to build it a lot lighter than using a shortened Galaxie frame would give me in the real world, so I'm looking at Mustang unibodies, which could work in reality with fabricated sheetmetal rocker boxes and cowl. The last option is something built as a totally ground-up show-car project, using a fabbed tubular chassis, or possibly a stretched Cobra or even Viper frame...or a Revell Shelby Series I frame to keep it kinda "all Ford". Right now I'm leaning towards both ends of the spectrum...a shortened Galaxie chassis with "pro touring" upgrades and old-school motive power, or Viper or Shelby underpinnings and Coyote power. Decisions, decisions.

Love it, love it, love it.

Pretty cool...and geez, now I have to find one. EDIT: Over 400 bucks now...probably not. That would be a good start on saving for a real quick-change rear end for the hot rod. I had assumed this car was built on a 1300OT chassis. Now I know better. Thanks.

Get well soon...or we'll shoot this dog.

I believe this issue was addressed in the comic strip Peanuts, under the subject "poison dog kisses".

Let's hope they use steel. It's easy to design with, it's relatively cheap, it fails less spectacularly if even marginal redundant load paths are present, if it's designed right and maintained it's at least a 100-year solution, it builds fast with fewer inherent variables that could jeopardize the quality of on-site fabrication, it can be moved into place as a unit like they tried to do with this mess with no issues, and there's no shortage of good designs already out there to draw inspiration from. Nah. Let's make another artsy-fartsy over-designed under-engineered debacle.

The green one. I need the green one.

Good luck.

Same bridge. I posted that shortly after it happened. But the video here is about the results of a lengthy investigation by the relevant authorities...and pretty much the same conclusions I came to back then. With the investigation bearing out my assertions of widespread sloppy incompetence, the story goes well beyond the "old man shouting at clouds" I'm often characterized as.

Yup...and as most of us who have been in this hobby for any length of time already know, the Revell kits from the period in question are often referred to as "fiddly" and "difficult", and are dismissed by a lot of builders for that reason. And that's unfortunate, because many of them are also rich in scale-accurate detail, and are the only game in town for some very interesting subjects. Frankly, in many ways I prefer Revell's kits from that era to what they're making today...kits I feel have been dumbed-down to an extent to appeal more to those who view the hobby as "something to pass the time" rather than "scale modeling". And that's OK too...but allow those who want to develop their skills and dive into something that takes a little more effort to get a fair and balanced idea of what they're in for with the old tool offerings. I've been heartened to see several builders on this forum begin working some of the older Revell kits with a degree of trepidation, having heard all the horror stories...and then to their surprise, find they're really not so bad, and end up turning out very respectable models. There ARE kits that probably aren't worth trying to build nice models from, like old Palmers (with awful lines and proportions that look almost nothing like the subject), buy some guys even seem to enjoy getting the best out of those.

No disagreement there. But hearing a kit called "trash" because it doesn't practically self-assemble gets old to those of us who can deal with a little difficulty.

You're very welcome. Glad it helped.

I've been after this one for a while...a reasonably priced but perfect AMT '67 Galaxie. Yeah, there are resin repops, but I wanted a real-deal. This promo is exactly what I needed. I'll be pulling molds to do a scale version of Blunc's (Mike Cassidy) stunning restyle of the car, shown here some time ago. I think his rework on this is some of the best I've ever seen, taking the already nice lines of the Galaxie and cooking them down to a roughly Mustang-sized car...kinda like reducing a sauce to intensify the flavors. BEFORE: AFTER:

It's not trash. It's a challenging kit that an accomplished builder who can deal with fit issues and overcome them can make an exquisite model from. That kinda limits the field.

Excellent. I snagged one of these some time back, very interested in watching your buildup.

Think of it this way...the real car is 197 inches long. The model is 12 inches long. If you divide 197 by 12, you'll find out how many models will fit within the length of the real one...which tells you the actual scale. It's 16.42, so your model is 16.42:1 scale.

I answered this a while back but some of the pix have disappeared. Here's a mechanical injection plumbing schematic. Between the two, that should be enough. There is linkage from the throttle pedal that operates the metering valve (sometimes called "barrel valve"), and the throttle butterflies. EDIT: The link below will take you to an explanation of mechanical fuel injection. The linkage and plumbing should start to make sense if you read the material and look at the pix. https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/fuel-cooling/need-know-mechanical-fuel-injection-types/