Ace-Garageguy

I seem to recall that it was something from Revell, but I've checked both the Club de Mer and the '57 Ford woody wagon, and zip. The Caddy kit from the period had a standing girl in a formal gown, so that's not it either. Hmmmm...I also don't think it was the smaller scale Chris Craft boat, and photos would seem to back that up...though there is a reclining one that I might remember incorrectly as being larger and standing. Any insight appreciated.

I've always questioned the wisdom of asking people who know zilch about much of anything how to design cars. Worked well for the Edsel, eh? But it tends to shield a certain type of weak management from having to take full responsibility for stupid decisions.

Which half? Sounds like possible diorama fodder to me.

Seriously cool. Missed it earlier, glad it popped up again.

Nice resto, cool car. I saw a real one a while back...monstrously huge, heavy, and pretty bizarre overall for a production piece.

Yup. Pretty sure the Americas were 4-spd automatics. Slow as slugs too.

Reminds me of one of Harry Bradley's personal cars. I'd vote for a hot-rodded six, or old-school smallblock Chebby power. And I think a burgundy / maroon would be perfect. Nice idea for the headliner too. Looks great.

Oh boy. It dropped a whole 12 cents per liter. So about 50 cents a gallon? Here it's still DOUBLE what it was in 2020 when the USA was energy independent, a net energy exporter. And don't tell me that's a political statement. It's a simple fact.

Elmer's is PVA, won't hurt plastic. Downside is that it has no wet strength, can peel off in high-humidity, and if applied too heavily tends to soak through fabrics.

Yes, and I understand it's also tough to keep up with repairs when the vehicle is in constant service for making a living. Being in or close to the automotive industry most of my life, I had opportunities and options the average guy probably doesn't.

Ongoing irks: people who can't or won't read (poor comprehension or just plain laziness), particularly anyone who mindlessly rebleats whatever their echo-chamber peers say; "professional journalists" who aren't fluent in their native languages; people who accept whatever drivel the "experts" or "authorities" vomit up without questioning it; the vast majority of YouTube comments; talking heads who rarely seem to feel the need to actually know what they're talking about; internet posters who do the same; people who can't admit when they're wrong; lipstick on pigs; mutton dressed as lamb.

Funny thing about the plastic cladding bits...it's often marketed as "damage resistant" on "sporty" or "adventure" vehicles, but in reality there's no way to repair the textured surfaces of most of them, so once it's scuffed the only way to get a like-new look again is to REPLACE it.

Was it an automatic? They were pretty awful, but I kinda liked the manual version.

Hmmmmm...interesting concept and responses. When my cheap old vehicles had problems, I fixed them. I didn't realize I was just supposed to accept driving dangerous, unreliable junk. My bad. EDIT: I did in fact have an S1 E-type that was so bad structurally (much like Johnny's Corvair) that you couldn't open either door without jacking the middle up...though it had been "repaired" by chimps who glued linoleum to the rocker boxes and floors, then covered everything with bondo and undercoating. But it was never a driver. Bought it for $400, tripled my investment just selling the bonnet, made lots more parting the rest of it out. Still occasionally kick myself though, as we all know what that car is worth today.

My first thought would be contact cement. It works well for headliners in real cars, so it should handle model work just fine. EDIT: After reading posts below, I remembered contact cement could cause wrinkling of thin-section styrene (a reported problem way back in my model RR days). The cement in question then was Goodyear Pliobond, and the styrene was sheet in the .010" to .030" range, but it's probably wise not to risk it...particularly considering the soft composition of many of today's kit plastics.

Good to know.

What about the witch?

There are several very high quality model suppliers in Ukraine I've bought from...styrene, resin, and 3D printed. But I'm kinda wondering who's going to be making parts under the current circumstances, and what the condition of the national and local postal service is.

One of these days I may do that. In the interim, this is pretty much the process, but modified using common sense to make an axle. The web would be traced on flat stock and cut out. The flanges would be attached as per the video, after having been suitably bent to follow the curves of the web. Then the flanges would be filed narrower, to look like a beam axle. Brass tube soldered to the ends with a lower-temp solder would represent the kingpin bosses...which would be functional if desired. Spindles would be made from brass channel and tube or rod, just as I did with plastic in the linked thread.

Then you should contact your bank and PayPal to dispute the charges, probably change all your passwords, etc. If somebody can get $1.75, they can just as easily clean you out.

Give a man a fish, he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to fish, he'll eat for life. Give a sock-puppet a fish, at least you've shut him up for a while.

And I sincerely thank you for perfectly reinforcing the original point of the thread. Vehicles over 100k miles are generally on their second or third owners, and will be essentially useless to working people who can't afford the complex diagnostics and expensive repairs. EDIT: And yes, older vehicles have always needed repairs too. But what a lot of people seem to want to deny is that due to the complexity of "modern" stuff, the cost of repairs is proportionally much higher than it's ever been before. Add that to not-great parts support, you have an aging fleet of vehicles that aren't cost-effective to keep in service for the average used-car owner.

Trucks? We don't need no stinkin' trucks.

I always include references to all the major materials and parts used in my build threads, and still get questions from people who obviously didn't read the text. One has to wonder "why bother" at some point. EDIT: I'll be more than happy to answer questions NOT covered in the text, but if somebody asks a question because they couldn't be bothered to read...not so much.