Ace-Garageguy

Nice collection. Much inspiration. How'd you do the flying and landing wires on the Gee Bees and Gilmore Special? They look really good.

Pretty wild. Much liking.

Read this... https://www.ridetech.com/info/tech/4-link-tech/ That's pretty much everything you need to know. If you need more info, just ask.

^^^

Good looking parts. Wow.

Man. I wish I could say that...just one day a week even.

I've forgotten who made (makes?) this horrible Palmer-esque 550 Spyder kit (rear engined, not mid engined, on a VW pan), but again, lotsa folks don't see anything wrong with it. The good 550 kits, like the Beck car I have, are mid-engined, on tubular frames like the real cars, and the body lines and proportions are dead-on because the molds were pulled from real cars...not somebody's poor "interpretation".

Man, I'd forgotten all about Hawkwind. So thanks for that.

Thing is though, a lot of folks really can't see any difference.

I'm down to my last bottle too. Scary times we live in, yup.

I don't understand the problem. Whose tree is it? The responsibility rests with them. Period. Worried about making an "enemy" because you expect adults to shoulder their own responsibility? I don't understand the problem.

^^^ You can take what Steve says to the bank. His builds are among the best of the best.

These look great for your first model builds. You obviously have the talent to do this well, and getting the skill to turn out models you're really happy with just takes work. Talent is what you're born with. Skill is what you develop by continually exercising your talent. And just as in playing the piano, some folks don't have the talent to get really good, but still find it enjoyable. The advice about using epoxy or white PVA "canopy" glue for your windows is good. It's easy to get epoxy fingerprints on windows though, very hard to remove, but you'll learn to keep your fingers clean as you build more models. I prefer the white PVA glues for windows, as it's water-soluble when wet, and fingerprints can be removed with a damp swab or paper towel. The stuff also dries clear, and disappears completely if used correctly. The downside is that the PVA glues don't have much strength when they're wet. For best results, I've found windows need to be jigged or taped in place while the PVA sets up. Here are some headlight threads... (type this into Google for several more: modelcarsmag realistic headlights)

Something I've been after for a long time...a virgin-in-the-box HO scale Bowser Pennsy T-1 kit. This locomotive kit was originally offered by Penn Line in the 1950s, with a lead boiler and not great details. In '55, the kit sold for $39.95...kinda pricey way back then. Bowser bought out Penn Line's tooling around about '63, and retooled several of the kits. This one, cast in zinc alloy, was produced in 1998, and is complete with a ton of brass super-detail parts. One of my favorite locomotives of all time, it's a Raymond Loewy design ('53 Studebaker, Avanti, etc.), and was clocked at 126 MPH. Sadly, all the real ones were scrapped, but some people who love the thing are recreating a full-scale operational T-1 from factory blueprints. The loco constructed from the kit has detail rivaling the best plastic stuff, and two motors. It's said to be capable of pulling a string of 100 cars.

Sounds good to me.

Nut cases. Typing sheep. Panicking hoarders. Willful ignorance. Lies. PO delivery of a box clearly marked "FRAGILE" that looks like the boys were playing let's-see-if-we-can-drive-the-tines-on-the-forklift-through-the-F.

Agreed. Most helpful.

Yup. Something to remember. Instead of whining and panicking about tomorrow, make today count.

K&S makes streamlined aluminum tube in several sizes. I don't know if there's a size as small as you need, but I wouldn't be surprised.

Still working in one shop, business as usual. Sometimes a little difficult getting parts and supplies though, as many of the businesses that feed us are short staffed. Thought I was getting the bug a couple times, but the pollen has been in record high territory lately, and it's been causing problems even for people who have no previous allergic reaction to it. Local infection rates are still climbing, and several types of crime are way up due in large part to stress and cabin fever. Traffic is, of course, way down. Getting around is much like it was 40 years ago when this was still a rural county. And still no TP in the major chain grocery stores. I wonder what they do with it.

Just to keep them in place, one would assume the very minimal of adhesives would suffice. Nothing sticks very well to vinyl, but there are several non-solvent glues that should do the job, including white PVA, epoxy, Walthers Goo, or even hardware-store Duco or silicone. If the model is going to be handled, or played with and and upside down a lot, you might need a mechanical fastener.

Yeah, "used to" is the operative phrase. That pretty much covers it, other than the nice wheels from Curt Raitz. Here's what was discussed about dragster fronts last time we went into it in depth...

Wow.