Ace-Garageguy

Paying bills on time can be difficult for the self-employed when clients put you on the "90 days ignore invoices" plan.

Lotsa work, looking good... Since you're doing so much work, you might consider addressing the too-low cowl on the AMT body (all the AMT '32 kits share the same problem). The correction isn't difficult, especially in light of how much other major work you're doing, and it makes a big difference in first impressions. Below is the in-progress corrected AMT Vicky body on Revell fenders and rails:

"Goes that's the way it" isn't even Yoda's scrambled syntax.

Scratch building a bucket-T frame should be easy, as a lot of 'em are fabbed from 2X4 rectangular steel tube, closely represented by .080" X 3/16" styrene strip. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114521205475? Model-A frames have been used as starting points too. Minicraft makes several flavors of 1/16 model-A, and they're great kits to build, or as parts sources for 1/16 rods. ETC.

A Google search of "mercury was used to preserve parchment" brings up a lot of hits. Your answer may be among them.

Way cool. I spent several years off-and-on doing modifications and structural repairs on a variety of European sailplanes...Schleicher, Grob, DG, etc. Any chance you have a DG-400 file?

You guys may or may not know that very nice weld-beads are available as "decals", 3D resin parts on decal film with adhesive backing. These went away for a while, but appear to be back in production...along with rivets and other stuff. https://www.archertransfers.com/collections/welds

I've never seen one of these in the flesh, but knew Brazil built cars on the Mopar "A" body. An image search for "Brazilian Mopar A body" brought this car right up.

Cool cool cool. Looks like you have the same frame bench we do, too.

Documentaries on trains, engineering, motor racing, tools, and all kinds of interesting mechanical stuff (produced long before the AI-made clickbait gibberish that's so prevalent now) on YooToob are some of the things I value there.

Shopping deals on full sets of can-can dancers don't come up all that often.

Fake. Underside of the hood is an immediate giveaway. Real hoods have aluminum skins built on tubular frames. The hood on this car is obviously a fiberglass molding. There are other things I see wrong that could possibly be due to inaccurate restoration, and I'm not a Cobra expert. But the hood is dead wrong.

Different strokes work in different situations.

Hobbies like collecting fast cars and women take boxcars full of cast to sustain, so it helps if you have a few oil wells or diamond mines.

Legs should go all the way up to whatever they're intended to support.

"Dazzlers" always meant knockout babes in my lexicon.

If the files are utilized to make a product to SELL, the originator of the file should be entitled to a cut of every part SOLD. In the big-boy world, the cost of design work is amortized by spreading it through the cost of product. Individuals purchasing a file probably ought to be able to make as many parts for their own use as they want. But sellers of parts who have only paid for one file are getting free design work and making a profit on it. EDIT: When Model Railroader publishes scale drawings of buildings, locomotives, cars, whatever, there is a stipulation on the page that they can be photocopied and re-sized, but FOR NON-COMMERCIAL USE ONLY. Same basic idea.

Just take the bulb out.

Aunts who serve you baked ants (or even raw, fried, or fricasseed) aren't my preferred kinds of relatives.

Better results are usually achieved by people who have at least a basic understanding of SOMETHING in the physical world.

The whole point is to represent the "technique" chimps have been using since cars and stick-welders existed...slap a way-too-thick patch over a rust hole, secured by bubblegum "welds".

Definitely one of the coolest things I've seen in a long, long time. Twin blowers...who woulda thunk.

Vintage Ulrich Mini-Men anybody? https://www.ebay.com/itm/116034617784

Zodiac boats are fun, but they don't deal well with bullet hits.

Looks really good. Just a thought...I've often seen step-plate (diamond-plate, tread-plate) that was WAY too heavy to be appropriate used to repair vehicle cockpit and bed floors too. Detail Master makes it in PE for 1/24-1/25, as do some others, and there's plastic sheet available as well.