Ace-Garageguy

Peas in queues are something you don't see that often.

Ago time a long galaxy away in a far far...oh, never mind.

Would you feel the same about Jane Wyatt?

While it's indeed correct that outlets downstream of a GFI outlet are protected by it, I'm a cowardly belt-and-suspenders kinda guy when it comes to electricity, and I'm cowardly enough to feel better if both of them were GFI outlets.

Ah...that explains everything.

"Knows best" is what father was reputed to do.

It never ceases to amaze me...

I said don't take my words out of context, which you did. Here's what I said EXACTLY: "I've NEVER used 5-minute epoxy for anything on a model car or anything else that I wanted to be permanent because I've never been impressed with its adhesion on ANYTHING, so why would I use it on a model I cared about? I've used it for temporary fixturing...on model cars and full scale things...because it's easy to peel off, especially if a surface isn't scuffed. And I've used it enough on various and sundry OTHER applications...as well as temporary model work...to form the opinion it's NOT something I choose to use for permanent assembly of a model."

More hot sauce for my gator-tail sandwich, if you please ma'am.

Show me the exact quote to back that up...and be sure you don't take my words out of context.

Boy, for somebody who says he doesn't care what anyone else uses, you sure are pushing this. Do you find the word "garbage" offensive on some level I can't fathom? Or is it just that subconsciously you feel that everyone has to use what you use or they're wrong?

That ain't no way to talk to the po-lice chief's son.

I guess my reading comprehension and question answering skills just aren't up to snuff. I've NEVER used 5-minute epoxy for anything on a model car or anything else that I wanted to be permanent because I've never been impressed with its adhesion on ANYTHING, so why would I use it on a model I cared about? I've used it for temporary fixturing...on model cars and full scale things...because it's easy to peel off, especially if a surface isn't scuffed. And I've used it enough on various and sundry OTHER applications...as well as temporary model work...to form the opinion it's NOT something I choose to use for permanent assembly of a model. "Distinct" enough? There's no "right" answer here. Use what YOU like, and I'll use what I like. I've said repeatedly it's adequate if used correctly for most static model car work, and if somebody likes it then USE it.

Around he-ah, we don't do things that way, boy.

Where do you get I've "never used" the stuff from anything I've written? Why would I have formed the opinion it was garbage without actually having some empirical evidence to base my opinion on?

I wrote I don't use epoxy for general assembly for models, I wouldn't use the 5-minute stuff for anything permanent, and why. You seem to want to take that as some kind of personal affront to your choice of adhesives. My saying that 5-minute epoxy is garbage compared to high performance epoxies, and garbage even compared to standard JB Weld, is a statement of my opinion based solely on my own experience, not an attack on your modeling choices. I hope that's clear enough.

I would wager a lot more than you do, in a wide variety of applications that go way beyond model cars. JB Weld saved my bacon on the road once, when a soldered joint on a Fiat X1/9 radiator bleed fitting failed (both the radiator and fitting were brass), and an emergency JB Weld repair got me the rest of the way across the country, never gave the least indication of leaking, and was still on the car years later when I sold it because I forgot to ever do a "proper" repair. That was not the 5-minute stuff, and I was extremely careful about cleaning, mixing, and application. I'm currently experimenting with the regular version to form some critical joints between dissimilar materials on a custom instrument panel for a full-scale DeLorean. Testing alongside my old faithful MGS, and a West resin system that is certified for one particular aircraft application, as well as an aviation-grade epoxy made specifically for bonding aluminum. I've used JB Weld extensively, as well as several other consumer-grade epoxies, for tooling and fixture applications that didn't need to last forever, or be exceptionally strong, and needed to get done quick with a minimum of fuss. Etc.

Compared to MGS 285 with 285/287 hardeners, and many other high performance epoxy systems, it is garbage. OK?

How many times do I have to say that fresh material used with reasonable care is perfectly adequate for most static modeling applications? Hardware store stuff is on the low end of the performance spectrum for epoxies, period.

I don't understand what you're arguing about. YOU...and anyone else...can CHOOSE to use anything you want, including unicorn snot or Cheez Whiz if that works for you. But there are those of us who have extensive knowledge about adhesives, have access to high performance materials, and CHOOSE to use them...even if they require 2 or 3 whole extra minutes to measure on a scale. Hardware-store epoxies are moderately good adhesives that are relatively easy to use, appeal to the average Joe, and used carefully are perfectly adequate for most static modeling uses. And poor mixing and/or application procedures, or old material, are the main causes of problems with the stuff. That is the simple unvarnished truth. I don't understand why the truth is disputed, or at least seems to ruffle people's feathers. However, I have made multiple posts and started threads showing mold-making and almost-scale-thickness fiberglass parts that are MUCH stronger than styrene, and that are just flat impossible to do with almost any consumer-grade epoxy. When one has access to a very high performance epoxy product, why wouldn't one use it for everything as appropriate? NOTE: I personally do not use epoxies for general assembly, unless I need to bond dissimilar materials that other adhesives aren't good for...like brass and aluminum to plastic. I use solvent glues wherever appropriate, and usually some variety of white glue (PVA) for clear parts, chrome parts, pinned parts, or anything I might possibly want to dissassemble in the future. EDIT: One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is that fully-cured epoxies DO degrade under prolonged exposure to UV light. If a model car assembled with tiny dabs of epoxy and sitting in sunlight for a long time falls apart, well, no surprise there. Degradation of epoxies under UV exposure is well known in aviation, even light reflected UP from the runway under a plane can cause damage...and precautions are taken to guard against it.

Alcohol makes a very effective cleaner prior to painting and is good insurance against fisheyes, but don't drink the stuff used for cleaning.

PM'd

Yup. Old-fashioned rolled oats, or steel-cut when I can find them. I prefer the heartier flavor and texture of steel-cut. I stay away from the more processed quick-oats for blood-sugar reasons.

Late home tonight. Fixin' to have hot old-fashioned oatmeal with fresh raspberries.

I was getting pretty smelly a few weeks back when my point-of-use propane-fired shower water heater quit, I ordered a new unit from Home Despot, and UPS repeatedly told me my address didn't exist (though they'd delivered to this address repeatedly in the past), or that delivery had been attempted and nobody was home (though I made a point to be home every day the thing was posted as "out for delivery" on their website). Eventually, delivery from the warehouse one state away, that had been estimated to take two days, took over a week (and had I not gone to a UPS store that could do NOTHING but give me a "direct" customer service number that rang in India, I'd still be waiting).