Ace-Garageguy

The '36 is very nice, and the rest, though a little simple and low-parts-count, are very well proportioned and can make outstanding models. The '34 is BY FAR the most accurate 3-window of this particular car ever kitted.

Holy Moley. All of Harry P's Photoshop tutorials and his large-scale models are back too.

I agree with you. One of the shops I work with just crushed a T-Bird "SuperCoupe" that had relatively minor body damage and needed its blower rebuilt, a very restorable and complete Range Rover, and a Jag XJ8 that was bought for the engine. Had I known in advance, I would have saved them (the EFI on the Rover was toast, but she was old enough that a carb retrofit would have had her running again, legally under the local emissions regs, and I have a complete top-end for a non-supercharged Ford V6 fitted to a slightly earlier 'Bird). These three cars had thousands of dollars worth of excellent parts, and brought only chump-change as scrap. There are even Jag and Rover-specific yards here that would have at least seen the parts go to saving other vehicles, but the shop management just wanted to see them gone "today", with zero effort. And...the fact is, most of the "mechanics" employed by this facility are incapable of actually diagnosing or repairing anything (the comeback rate is staggering, and is invariably met with excuses rather than admitting incompetence on the part of most of the staff), but they should be entirely competent to disassemble junkers.

Your sweeping generalizations about older people on this forum are getting to be a drag. I bought just as many late-model Euro and Asian subjects as I did vintage US iron...and several late-model US subjects as well...this past year. I sure as hell do MY part in supporting the industry, new subjects and older subjects. And over the course of my life, I've owned performance cars from almost every car-building continent, from every car-building time period since the late 1940s. I enjoy them ALL. I don't see why there always has to be this "us vs. them" bickering.

I understand that, and I agree with you. I was agreeing with your statement, but also positing (farther on in the post) one possible reason for the decline in interest in modeling by younger people in general.

My comment was in part a response to the statement below, arguing with YOUR position that young guys don't like older cars...(and the constant lament that most younger people have little interest in building models, period).

http://www.ourstolenfuture.com/newscience/reproduction/2006/2006-1210travisonetal.html https://uk.reuters.com/article/health-testosterone-levels-dc/mens-testosterone-levels-declined-in-last-20-years-idUKKIM16976320061031 https://www.healio.com/endocrinology/hormone-therapy/news/print/endocrine-today/{ac23497d-f1ed-4278-bbd2-92bb1e552e3a}/generational-decline-in-testosterone-levels-observed http://www.thebodywellusa.com/the-hard-truth-for-men-declining-testosterone-levels-worldwide/ https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/the-mystery-of-declining-testosterone_us_59fcc5fbe4b0d467d4c224b3 https://www.globalresearch.ca/health-and-the-environment-testosterone-levels-fall-worldwide/30129

Why don't you do the research yourself on the declining testosterone levels, most likely due to environmental estrogen and estrogen mimics (possibly including soy)? The canary in the coal mine was documented decades ago with oddly developing amphibians that live in marshland whose water was contaminated by human effluent. It's out there for anyone with a functioning brain who doesn't have a need for dismissing anything that might challenge his world-view with phrases like "crabby old fogey drivel". And no. I don't listen to Alex Jones or ANYONE who tries to tell me what to think...but I sometimes DO find a bit of science that at least partially explains things I've noticed MYSELF.

I would also submit that learning these skills is considerably easier than mastering a multitude of physical tools, techniques, materials, and operations. What IS required is mastering manipulation of onscreen symbols that tell the computer how to create representations of desired lines, volumes, and surface finishes. I can back up the statement with the fact that I personally know several visual artists who can not draw a blade of grass, but can produce stunning computer-based images. Likewise, I know engineers who can't make anything in the physical world, and wouldn't know where to start, but they can produce beautiful (and absolutely accurate) 3D renderings of objects with CAD. Harry P. was one of the old-school hands-on artists who was able to transition to working very effectively in the virtual world, and would most certainly have been able to design parts to be made via 3D printing (as well as his demonstrated ability physically scratch-building)...but being able to do both is rather rare in my experience. If anything, 3D computer modeling and printing will OPEN doors within the hobby to people who can't do it the traditional way. It's a fantastic additional set of tools for those who can.

Work on your reading comprehension skills. I said MAY be etc. etc. That means "might", as in "possibly".

1) When I built my first car from junk (at 18), a clapped out '62 VW that someone had put a terminally leaky '58 36HP engine in, I had almost no skills either. After a summer's work on the car, I drove it daily to my classes at Ga.Tech. Later that same year, I was competing fairly successfully with it in autocross events. At what cost? Whatever I earned and was willing to put into the thing in terms of my own money and effort. And the experience helped me build confidence in my own ability and judgement, and ultimately launched me on a career that's been rewarding in many ways for almost 50 years, and insures to this day that I can find well-paid employment pretty much anywhere, pretty much instantly. I'd say the long term cost/benefit ratio worked out nicely in my own case, and I applaud any young person who chooses the path that's not "easier". 2) No. Only a moron would assume that an engine and gearbox are good...or bad...from 2700 miles away, without even seeing any test results. I may be a lot of unpleasant things, but moron isn't one of them.

Beautiful car, fine work on her so far. Very nice indeed. I'd have to add the Aston DB4 GT Zagato, and the Jag XJ13 to my own list (which is, of course, a little conditional on how loosely you interpret "race car").

I've brought back lotsa stuff that's sat for over 20 years. We had a '38 Ford in the last shop that had been sitting for over 40, and she was running within a week of when we got her. If the engine's not seized, there's hope...and even if it is seized, engines often free-up with some TLC. Scrapping what may be a perfectly good Mopar 440 and a 727 Torqueflite makes absolutely NO sense from where I'm sitting. They're not making any more, you know. My own '63 Olds convertible (lost after my mother died, tracked down in Texas and brought back up here to restore when I retire shortly) hasn't run since the 1980s, and there's a lot worse stuff in it than a little mouse-poop.. PS. He's most likely going to scrap the car shell...the engine is going in his truck. And by the way...this is how people did hot-rods before the days of checkbook-and-catalog car building.

Boy, is that thing the answer to a question nobody asked. Yech.

AND...You definitely want to be careful if the car is full of mouse droppings. Wear a respirator, goggles or glasses at least, gloves, a paper suit if you can get one, and hose it down with a solution of Clorox BEFORE you really start working on it. If you can't get a protective suit, don't wear the clothes you wore to clean it up again until AFTER you wash them in detergent, Clorox and hot water. Honestly...a little water won't hurt the thing at this point. Just be sure to cover any openings in the engine, like breathers or the carb, etc. before you douche it. Frankly, I'd probably hose out the interior and under the dash too. Let it dry out thoroughly, it will be fine. Rodents are the worst for creating mindless damage, and their droppings can harbor bad make-you-sick stuff.

Here's what looks like a good reference on the Carter Thermoquad. Knowing as much as you can about whatever you're trying to fix is the goal. Yours appears to be an interim emissions model, setup for "lean burn". This is not a performance carb. https://carbkitsource.com/tech/Carter/pages/tqguide-Vaanth.html

I was trying to find him a wiring diagram to refer to, or at least to be able to tell him the color-codes of wires to check, and their locations, but the sheer preponderance of internet idiocy can be beyond frustrating...especially in light of the fact that so many "tech savvy" fools have such disdain for the printed word, and seem to think that the answer to everything in in their moron-phone. It ain't. My own hard-copy wiring diagram library is very light on US cars of his period, but we probably have it in the larger shop I work with...though I'm the only one who ever opens an actual "book" there. And...ahem...I'm the go-to guy for anything electrical that requires diagnostics or custom work beyond follow-the-directions-in-the-box (which most of them fail to do anyway, and then wonder why their stuff won't work).

I'd buy a couple, at least. I already have a couple of originals. And as a buyer of wide-ranging subject matter in several kit genres, and a card-carrying old fart, I have some observations re: the model car situation. Rob Hall is right in thinking that the kit companies need to milk MY generation for every last nickel while we're still around. I've brought this up many times myself on similar threads in the past. Most of us have WAY more money to burn than millennials working sub-minimum wage jobs while carrying crippling debt for college loans to get useless degrees in things like the history of lesbian basket-weaving in Turkmenistan. Oldcarfan27 is spot on with this too: Last time I was at VLV, the guys were mostly younger, and many of the women were over-the-top hot...and they mostly seemed to do the period thing well: kinda traditional with a modern twist, but not a cartoonish parody (like 65- year-old land-whales in poodle-skirts) or you-need-a-tetanus-shot-stand-next-to-the-funnel-cakes rat-junk. It's the soy-faced testosterone-free "guys" who have no interest in cars, driving, making things, etc. And they're probably the vast majority. No matter HOW MANY cool kits of cool newer vehicles get pumped out, it's not going to spark the interest of boys who are ambivalent about their male identities. Model-building will never EVER see sales numbers like it did in the magical 1960s. Fast cars, motorcycles, girls, surfing or other individual sports...I really don't think most of today's young "men" give too hoots about any of that sort of thing. Taking selfies and making sure the social-networks don't forget them every 5 minutes seem to be what passes for hobbies with this crowd. And while we're at it...testosterone has declined in men 50% since I was a kid. Look it up. It's real, and it's having an effect on the way things are. Male humans, in general, enjoy things (or used to). Females are more people-oriented. This is real science. Take away half of the hormone responsible in large part for "maleness", it's no surprise that social networking tops driving icky (and predominantly boring anyway) cars, or working with greasy, smelly, dirty machines, or dangerous sharp tools and noxious chemicals to build a model. Plus, if your closest 12,000 social-network "friends" aren't into models, chances are you won't be either. The herd mentality is strong here. I'm just glad there are some model companies still in business, and that some of them will take the financial risk to tool a new ANYTHING. I've bought as many Euro and Asian tuner kits the last year as I have old US stuff, and I like 'em all, so long as they're good quality, or are faithful reproductions of things past.

And here's another reason I HATE trying to find hard-core tech info on the interdwerbs. There's TONS of USELESS EXCREMENT like this RETARD has posted, cluttering up relevant results: http://nickfayos.club/chrysler-new-yorker-wiring-diagram/ And THIS ONE ISN'T FOR THE RIGHT CAR EITHER...USELESS DWERBS !!!!!! http://alexdapiata.com/1978-chrysler-wiring-diagram/repair-guides-wiring-diagrams-engine-control-schematic-3l-8l-new-yorker-dynasty-fifth-ave-and-imperial-chrysler-cordoba-diagram-chrysler/

Geez. If the car was in MY shop, I could tell you within a few hours exactly what condition the engine was in and have it running as well as possible within the constraints of what's there. And the very FIRST thing I'd do is go in the office, and pull all the specs and the wiring diagram...before I wasted time doing ANYTHING else. Trying to diagnose something over the internet is often futile, but if you understand vehicle wiring, how things are SUPPOSED to work, and have some decent reference material, I can walk you through it. Couple more things. 1) I STRONGLY RECOMMEND you get the engine running BEFORE you pull it out of the car. A compression test won't tell you if you have a blown head gasket, or a cracked block, or worn out lifters and valve stem seals, or several other things...like whether it has any oil pressure, and whether the rod bearings are all worn out and knocking. While you DO need to do a compression test BEFORE you try to start the poor thing, it's not enough to make the call as to whether the engine is good. And THERE'S NO WAY IN HELL I'D SWAP AN ENGINE INTO ANYTHING NOT KNOWING EXACTLY WHAT CONDITION IT IS IN. 2) Power is probably going to the main starter terminal. Often times, the big HOT wire going to the fuse box comes directly off of that terminal too. You NEED to determine if this is the case. THEN YOU NEED TO DETERMINE WHETHER THE CAR HAS A STARTER RELAY MOUNTED AWAY FROM THE STARTER. MANY MOPARS DO. If it DOES, a jumper wire from the hot side of the battery to the CORRECT terminal will cause the starter to engage and turn, even if the key isn't turned. That will usually bypass the neutral-safety switch too. There are really very simple and straightforward diagnostic procedures to follow here...BUT YOU NEED A WIRING DIAGRAM TO KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU'RE DOING. The world is full of chimps dancing around cars waving tools, without ANY logical approach to diagnostics whatsoever. Don't become one of them.

One more piece of advice (well, two pieces, really)...if you don't already have one, GET a service manual for the particular vehicle. Get an old PRINTED one. Spend the money for the factory books, and learn to rely on them. Though the internet can be a great research tool if you already know a LOT about the information you're after, it is also FULL OF IDIOT BS posted by me-too-wannabes who don't have a clue. A lot of "mechanics" today seem to get all their info from the web, which is part of the reason why there are a LOT of mechanics now who can't fix anything. Ever hear the expression "the blind leading the blind"? It's also necessary to understand the science and physics of how and why engines and vehicle systems operate...assuming that you want to be good at this stuff. My first job after engineering school was as an apprentice mechanic, working under a guy who worked on model T Fords when they were new. He instilled in me the NEED to fully understand the BASICS, and once you do, you can work on ANYTHING.

There's some reasonable advice above, and some that's not so good. It IS WISER to find if the engine runs PRIOR to doing all the work involved in an engine swap. If the engine has problems, you may want to get something else, or do whatever major or minor repairs it might require when it's OUT of the donor vehicle, BEFORE putting it in the recipient. Matt makes a good point about "recommissioning" but something that article left out is the wisdom of taking the plugs out and squirting some oil in each cylinder BEFORE you go cranking on the starter. Any lubrication the pistons and rings had long ago is gone, and if the engine DOES miraculously start on the first crank, you don't want the pistons to be dry in their bores. Also, let the oil sit in the cylinders for a while, and turn the engine through by hand, if possible, and once you get the starter working, turn the engine through WITH THE PLUGS OUT enough to blow any EXCESS oil back out of the cylinders. If that particular carb is one of the electronic-feedback-loop styles, it's most likely useless at this point too. At some time, you're going to want to replace it with something simpler, lacking all the built-in failure modes, so why not take it off NOW, tear it down, clean it out, and reinstall it with at least a decent chance of functioning properly? Of course, I've only been building race cars, high-end hot-rods, and restoring vintage cars...as well as designing and fabricating parts and vehicle systems...for almost 50 years, so my advice might be considerably less valuable than what you get from somebody else.

What is the symptom, exactly? (Remember...a doctor doesn't ask you what your illness is; he asks you what your SYMPTOM is, and uses his knowledge to try to determine what the CAUSE is.) Advice is worthless unless the one giving it understands exactly WHAT the symptom is. Is it simply that when you turn the key, the starter motor won't run? Besides disconnected wires, or possibly a bad solenoid, there's also a "neutral safety switch" that keeps the starter from running unless the transmission is in neutral or park. NOTE: Throwing parts at a car until it's fixed is NOT a good habit to get into, though it's very popular with amateurs and a lot of "professionals", unfortunately. Do you have a wiring diagram for the car? And do you know how to read one? A circuit diagram with the right color codes, and the knowledge to use it, are essential if you're going to work on stuff.

Attractive little boat. Looks like fun.

You know, I'm going to have to try that. Cellulose fibers are remarkably strong...a non-aluminum Spitfire (non-flying) was built from an early composite material using linen fibers and phenolic resin to investigate replacing light alloy in British warplanes (by the company that went on to produce carbon F1 tubs in later years). It's a royal PITA to mix my magic epoxy resin for a model car. 10 grams is the minimum I can mix accurately, so there's about 90% waste every time I do model work with it.