Ace-Garageguy

So will a Holley mounted upside down. Who cares about accuracy or realism, right? You know...I don't understand why any of you guys getting in such a snit because I had the unmitigated audacity to mention one thing that's wrong from R&M...especially in light of the fact that I was the one to post the contact information for Norm, and otherwise, I HAVE NOTHING BUT THE HIGHEST PRAISE FOR EVERYTHING I'VE EVER BOUGHT FROM HIM.

I agree. Nothing looks worse than shiny orange-peel. Steve...my mistake. I picked the wrong example of your work...but do I not remember correctly that you buy your metallics from someone who mixes with very small flake to address the problem?

P-11A says DCOEs can be used as down drafts. That's as realistic as mounting a Holley 4-barrel upside down and calling it an updraft.

Approximately 80 percent of NYC high school grads can’t read well enough for community college 2013 article here: http://dailycaller.com/2013/03/08/about-80-percent-of-nyc-high-school-grads-cant-read-well-enough-for-community-college/

Mark's advice is excellent. For a very good overview of the process... https://www.freemansupply.com/video.htm Over the years, part of my professional work has included model-making (in reduced and full scales) for product development, testing, and presentations. I've always had 100% good results with products from this company. They also have an extensive video library. https://www.polytek.com/

ONE MORE TIME...THE AMT FENDERS ARE SEPARATE FROM THE FULL FRAME. NO NEED TO SEPARATE THE TWO. The design of the Monogram '36 Ford body, fenders and frame is almost identical to the AMT version. They assemble almost exactly the same way, and are broken down into almost identical parts...except for the scale. I've only built several of each, and have several more on the shelf....and 3 in progress.

No need to get snippy. Everything else (and I have a LOT of his stuff) I've ever bought from Norm has been A+ #1 table-grade beautiful. But if a part is WRONG (you might remember, I've made my living building and tuning and preparing and racing REAL cars for a large part of the last 50 years), I'm not going to say it's right just to be nice. EDIT: The Webers I referenced ARE CORRECT for ONE APPLICATION...I don't recall whether it's side or downdraft right now...but NOT BOTH.

Except when they're not. Everything I have from him IS INDEED VERY VERY NICE, but the P-11A Weber carbs that are labeled incorrectly as either IDAs or DCOEs are problematical. Weber carbs can be EITHER sidedraft OR downdraft, and you CAN NOT use one for the other...and they don't look alike, either. Well, maybe sorta. To a blind guy. EDITED FOR CLARITY, WITH PART NUMBER

I like apple pie, but I never really developed a taste for cheese on it. I like a pie that focuses on "sweet" rather than a mashup of sweet and cheesy. Cherry pie is nice too. Especially when it's tart and sweet at the same time. I also like cake. Chocolate with fudge frosting. Or a tunnel-of-fudge cake made in a Bundt pan.

He was in November. There's never been any website, but the contact info below should help. ReplMinCoMd@aol.com Replicas & Miniatures Co of Maryland 317 Roosevelt Avenue S.W, Glen Burnie, MD 21061 410-768-3648 Here's a link to the 2009 catalog... http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/1/2/1/after-market-source/replicasminiatureof/

You know, I never noticed the dearth of '32 roadsters dressed up as altereds until you mentioned it. You're right. I THINK this is one...

There are a LOT of things that make a model car look like a toy, but saying "gloss" is one of them is a gross oversimplification. This '53 Ford by Marcos Cruz is VERY glossy, but because of the rest of the way the model is finished, it looks like a beautiful REAL car. This '70 Chevelle built by me, on the other hand, has about the same level of gloss, but the poorly defined door gaps instantly make a "toy" impression. It's this, and the similar "dipped in syrup" look, that sometimes spoil models. The SIZE of the metalflake particles on the Chevelle is also a dead giveaway it's a model, or toy. They're huge for the scale, and would only be appropriate for a dune-buggy, kustom show car, or a bass boat. Getting closer-to-scale flake in model car paint goes a long way to enhance the "real car" illusion. If you want to see a master's work, look at anything built by Steven Guthmiller. His '59 Dodge, below, again has about the same level of gloss, but the flake in his metallic paint looks exactly right...and the car looks very real.

Hmmmmm...I have another Az. trip coming up. Maybe I could shuffle some things...

I like pie.

Here's another 50 or so pages of vintage altered stuff. If you're like me, more is always better. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-altered-thread.1010937/

Well, that's one of those cases where sure, you CAN do it, but really, WHY would you want to? Unless specifically designed to package the induction and exhaust systems like that, converting most every engine on the planet to intake through the exhaust ports results in a SIGNIFICANT reduction in power. But then again, hot-rodding to me has always about making things work better. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/reverse-induction-engine.716655/

That Flintstone body, by the way, is based on the old Monogram 1/24 '34 Ford. Put it on 1/25 '32 Ford rails and it will REALLY look dorky. But there are several reissues / modifications of that kit too...and they'll fit the Flintstone body like they were made for each other.

The '36 Ford includes a "roadster" cowl, windshield and door tops. And my '36 above isn't "cut". The body is simply channeled down over the frame rails. The fenders are NOT part of the frame. I STILL don't know why you want to use '32 rails. They're several inches shorter than '32 rails, and '34 Fords on '32 rails usually look dorky. There's plenty of '34 kits around too.

Welcome. Always nice to have new members who have knowledge of the real deal. I have Larry Davis' Super Stock: Drag Racing the Family Sedan. I'll have to look for yours.

Yeah it can. This is the 3-window...an ancient gluebomb, but virtually identical to the current kit. Most of the tooling is the same. The same basic idea gets you a 5-window (lots of these older kits around, and not as highly sought after as the 3-window...and except for the body shell, they're also identical to the 3-window). Why '32 rails? '34 rails work just fine. '35-'40 rails work well too...

HEY KIDS !!! GET YOUR TOTALLY AWESOME COLONEL SANDERS MASK FREE WITH PURCHASE OF ANY SIZE ORIGINAL FINGER-LIKKIN'-GOOD CHICKEN FEET 'N BEAKS BOX TODAY!!! (EXCEPT SMALL AND MEDIUM. AND DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE ALARMIST MEDIA REPORTS THAT WE HAVE NO CHICKEN. WE MAY BE OUT OF ACTUAL CHICKEN "MEAT", BUT WE STILL HAVE PLENTY OF FEET, BEAKS, AND OTHER TASTY BITS !!!)

Once again, thanks for the interest and comments. PART 5 The forks and triple-trees were broken and damaged. Again, everything that could be glued was misaligned and slathered in goo, and not easily repairable to the standard I want this thing to come in at. I made and recorded measurements of what was there, so the parts could be modified or replaced with scratch-built replicas. The lower triple-clamp, shown still assembled to the forks, is two halves glued together around the fork tubes. It was split apart and the halves "machined" flat, as shown with other parts above, and re-glued in correct alignment. It also carries the headlight bracket, which was heavily glued in the wrong place. I just cut it off. We'll make a new one. The upper triple-clamp gets saved and re-worked too. The molded-in hex-heads will be replaced by brass fasteners. After all the bodged messes were removed and the upper triple-clamp was rebuilt, both clamps were fixtured together and drilled to get the holes to all line up straight and parallel...not including the steering shaft holes, which were molded slightly out of line when viewed from the side. I have to assume this was intentional on the part of the kit designer, to impart a little rake to the front forks. New fork legs were made up from brass tube, and aluminum telescoping sleeves of the same diameter as the OEM parts are being made to cover them. These can be highly polished to simulate chrome, and they'll hide the slightly elongated holes I ended up with in the lower clamp to get the fork tubes to assemble parallel. If I'd done this work on my mill, everything would have been dead-on, but the mill lives at one of the big-car shops now. Assembled and installed on the frame with a 1/16" brass steering shaft. I drilled the holes for the shaft in the same places on the clamps as were originally molded, so I have to assume that the rake of the front forks is the same as the original model represented. The white inserts in the upper triple-clamp are from where I drilled the holes for the fork tubes incorrectly...twice...and had to insert styrene fillers, let them dry, and re-drill to get everything aligned correctly. The fork tubes HAVE to be dead parallel in two planes. Now we can step back for a minute, and see something beginning to look like a motorcycle.