Ace-Garageguy

That one's got some warp problems, and the flange is faired into the edge... not like a real one...

Actually, that car does appear to have a clutch on the fan. It's the finned thing forward of the blades. The fan mounts to the rear of the clutch.

That's close to the way I'd do it. I can make parts that are perfectly strong enough for models that are only .020" thick, and a flange like that, so close to the main body, I should be able to hold to .010".

I bet you're right about 5 blades. I can't recall ever seeing a big-block car with 4.

Very fine looking work. I have one of these, and the rally car version, been on the shelf for MANY years. Your work is certainly inspiring. Thanks also for the reference to Tamiya's replacement parts program. The tires from a 1/12 911 kit are dry-rotted, and finding them elsewhere has proven to be impossible.

I can't give you a definitive answer as to what should be there as OEM equipment (all the big-block Chevelles I have access to have been heavily modified), but this shot of an unrestored 396 car appears to show a non-clutch fan, with 4 or 5 blades.

In the first place, 120 grit is WAY TOO COARSE. If someone on a video recommended that grit, he's an idiot. NEVER use anything coarser than 180, and even that's too coarse unless you REALLY know what you're doing. (In sandpaper, bigger numbers are FINER...and 400 is about as coarse as you really want to go on plastic) All that said, you're pretty much screwed at this point. The only way to get rid of the sanding scratches is going to be to sand with much finer paper, and possibly re-primer, then re-sand and re-prime as necessary. Another problem that arises now is that all that sanding and primering will obliterate fine surface details. In future, it's MUCH better to remove the mold parting-lines ("the lines on the plastic that didn't need to be there") VERY CAREFULLY with files and control where you let the scratches go. When you remove parting lines with sandpaper, scratches spread all over the model, far away from what you're trying to correct, and you face the problem you now have. And let this be a warning...MUCH of the "expert" advice posted on YouTube is just flat WRONG...about REAL cars as well as models...and everything else.

I was in the process of turning a plug for the 315-gallon P-38 tank body on the lathe 3+ years back, just before I moved. Haven't got back to it yet, but all the plug is lacking is the forming of the rail where the two halves bolt together, and some rivet detail. The parts will be almost-scale-thickness fiberglass. Some of you already know about how I make them. Anybody wanting to make his on...the tank you want is about 13 feet long and about 3 feet wide.

That's actually been covered on this forum before. Here's another shot of the Two Thing, with the frame even more similar to the AMT kit... The car still exists...

I believe the Strombecker body MAY be from the Merit tooling. Other Merit bodies have ended up marketed as slot cars, so it's not too far fetched.

Between the Revell kit and the Lindberg kit, there's enough to build a very credible D-type...which I've been on for some time. (Plus a couple packs of Archer rivets.) There's an ancient kit from Merit too. I have 'em all.

frammit kenalgiput neepoo

but hairballs don't

floats your boat

If soap flavoring

Nice score for $10. Maybe just polish it and do the chrome with a silver Sharpie...kinda keep the promo vibe going.

Honestly? Almost nothing. Never worked on one.

Oobly gooledge waa-waa

at the idiotic

Ollie's dumps overstock, discontinued and remaindered merchandise. Kinda like Big Lots, but lower-end, if that's imaginable. http://www.ollies.us/what-is-ollies/ Lotsa really cheap crapp nobody has ever heard of, and some really smoking deals on models occasionally. The stock changes all the time, so you have to keep looking, but they DO send out fliers sometimes. I got a mess of 1/8 Lindberg kits for less than $20 each.

Which comes down to this: soft, comfortable ride, but the front end plows and the car leans significantly with anything remotely resembling vigorous cornering; lotsa tire squeal on the bias-plies if you push it in a turn at all; vague, over-boosted steering, reminiscent of driving a motorboat with ropes and pulleys connecting the wheel and rudder; brakes that will put you through the windshield the first time you touch them, perfectly adequate for normal stopping, but that fade to uselessness when used hard.

but smashed flat

Much as I like Greg and the site he recommended, I think his statement that "If you ain't looking at this guys blog http://justacarguy.blogspot.com/ every day you ain't a car guy in my book" might be pushing it a little bit. I make my living building high-end one-of-a-kind cars, but I hardly EVER look at the blog referenced. Not defensive, just fact.

in a blender

I've come across it several times when researching something, but I don't ever just check-in. Frankly, THIS (MCM) is the only site I visit with any kind of frequency, and I'm trying to wean myself of that.