Ace-Garageguy

I agree with most everything Art has to say here...except...in my own experience, I've had adhesion issues with 5-minute I haven't had with the longer-cure stuff I generally use. What this has translated to for me has been a failure to featheredge as nicely, and an occasional tendency to pull up at the edge when subsequently hit with hot-solvent primers. This would be in keeping with the general rule-of-thumb regarding epoxies...the longer they take to set and cure fully, the harder, tougher and more chemical resistant they are, and the better they adhere to a substrate. PS. This is the phenolic product, reddish-brown. There is another lightweight inert filler / thickening agent you all may be interested in called "fumed silica". http://www.christinedemerchant.com/filler-silica.html

Performance is very similar. I use the glass usually for plastic models when I have it in stock, simply because it's white and covers more readily with primer. http://www.ez.org/canardpages/pages/chasingmars/Misc/Phenolic vs Glass K20 micro.pdf

Somehow, I kinda doubt it.

At this point, I'm thinking a combination of several suggestions here is going to be the way to go. Thread of the right color and diameter, de-fuzzed with wax or white glue or something else, striped with the Sharpie. I'm gonna try it.

Bravo Tom. That's the spirit ! Let's get this really going again. Come on guys...we CAN make a difference in Harry's life.

And in turn I'd have to point out that apparently YOU haven't actually read...or comprehended...all of my thoughts on the subject, or know much about my work either. I already pointed out the absurdity of using the stuff for heavy fills, I said the product is good for tiny fills. It is. I posted a photo of an example of what it's good for as illustration. I've also been a strong advocate of using 2-part products well before they were universally accepted in the modeling community and in my engineering capacity, probably know more about various epoxies and polyesters than anyone on the forum, and from my other professional work, know rather a lot about paint products and procedures as well...from over 40 years of first-hand experience. Much of the model I showed using a tiny spot of green Squadron was scratch-built, and the surface formed of 2-part polyesters, reinforced with epoxy. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/96942-dry-lakes-scratchbashed-29-fordardun-stupid-mistake/?page=1 But feel free to call Squadron "junk" and miss the point entirely.

As I've said repeatedly, I use it for what it works well for, and I'll put my finish and paint up against ANYONE'S for proof. Using a two-part putty for tiny minor flaws and pinholes is not particularly efficient, and the Squadron products work just fine for that. To put a label of "garbage" or "junk" on a product that has a worthwhile place in the builder's arsenal just because YOU don't particularly like it really does the community no good whatsoever.

Exactly, and the old model car mags advised exactly this process when doing heavy builds with the stuff...or any lacquer putty. Of course, this takes time...a lot of time...and the 2-part putties allow you to do heavy fills (1/8" to 1/4") with one application. Try that with lacquer putty and it will shrink and crack for sure.

Fantastic concept, perfect lines that look good from every angle. This is one of those rare models that really REALLY needs to be built in full-scale. This car done right in 1:1 could be a Riddler winner.

Harry Pristovnik (remember him?) did some fine fine fine looking work on this in, I think, 1/12 or 1/16 scale. Try searching his content (and be sure to notice HOW MUCH HE'S CONTRIBUTED OVER THE YEARS).

Probably going to see if the new Foose Caddy and Ford pickup customs fly off the shelves before considering any oldies, too. If fairly recent showcars by a big-time well-known current builder-designer aren't a huge hit, the odds of old showcars that are largely unknown to anyone younger than 55 getting tooled are slim to none.

I've tried using them for touchup work in the field on aircraft and race cars, as well as spraying mold-release agents, again for field repairs on composite aircraft. Though the concept is sound, my results have been inconsistent. Pressure in the propellant can may vary widely, and as a result, atomization is never predictable. As you use up the propellant, the pressure also drops, naturally, and atomization at the end of a job is usually different from at the beginning. When there's absolutely NO alternative, they have a place in the toolbox. Cleaning requires simply sloshing out the bottle with clean solvent, and spraying more clean solvent through the device, then finally inverting the thing and spraying to clear any liquids out of the dip-tube and valve. But if you want to do good work, you'd be ahead of the game saving up to buy a decent entry-level airbrush and compressor. Most anyone can put aside a buck a day. In 6 months, you're set. EDIT: And if you can build a model, you can certainly clean an airbrush. It just takes a little care and reading the instructions first.

Try sending money to his gofundme cancer-treatment account. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w Cards, letters and well-wishes are nice, but I'm sure some of his depression is the direct result of not being able to work and generate income, coupled with having to pay largely out of his own rapidly emptying pocket for his care. His insurance has left him twisting in the wind, and he's alone most of the time. A steady inflow of cash from people who care about him enough to give could surely make his life a little easier. Put yourself in Harry's position. What would really do you more good...a card in the mail, or five bucks to put towards the mortgage, utilities and medical treatment, with a note of well-wishing attached? As I write this there are about 270 people viewing this site. If every one of you sent just $5 or $10, that would be a huge show of REAL caring. And there isn't ANYBODY here who can't afford that much. This is to help save a man's life, people. EDIT: I just sent $10. Who's next?

"Snake-slapping" makes me think of a Russian-roulette style game, but played with annoyed pit-vipers rather than a revolver with one round in the cylinder. Great for reflex-training.

Then I wonder why I'm able to get consistent first-quality results with it, used intelligently. I'll put my finish work up against anybody's.

Reforiginakiting (v: reforiginakite) Unbullotifying (v: unbullotify) Improvistorating (v: improvistorate) decrappomodding (v: decrappomod)

Curiouser and curiouser. Past few days, almost every other time I switch to a different thread, or even log in, the site hangs for 30 seconds to more than a minute. No problems on any other site, and I visit MANY daily doing parts purchasing and research for the 1:1 cars. Haven't changed browsers, settings, internet providers or computer. On the flip side, uploads of photo-including (from P-bucket) content on my own build threads hang occasionally, and it sometimes doesn't hang at all...instant post.

Fine looking little car. I noticed the hood blisters first thing, as well as the thinned flanges on the rear axle bells. Good stuff. Sections of model aircraft bombs and drop-tanks can make very good blisters as well.

The smallest packaging of any two-part putty I'm aware of is the Bondo 801 tube. In reality it's a little larger than this, still much smaller than most similar materials are available in.

Some real fine looking work going on here.

I agree that USC "Icing" is the best of the real-car two-part putties, but if you want to save a few bucks and have a FinishMaster store near you, their generic brand in a similar tube is almost as good. If you want far smaller quantities that are appropriately packaged for model-car work, the Bondo brand "professional" two-part putty is available at just about every auto-parts store, in a small tube with an included tube of cream-hardener.

I won't argue the point, as every tube of the stuff I got in a kit was either hard as a rock or had separated and was part runny goo plus a solid lump...and totally useless. The old AMT putty sold separately smelled like lacquer putty, and I remember this vividly because the first time I ever used real-car lacquer putty in my 1:1 work ( a LONG time ago), the olfactory part of my little brain recognized the smell immediately.

Squadron putty is nothing more or less than straight lacquer glazing putty. The white is essentially the same stuff that came in ancient AMT "Styline" customizing kits. The green is just tinted for visibility. It dries by evaporation of the solvent, so it shrinks. A lot. You do NOT want to use it for heavy fill or sculptural work. I personally don't recommend it for any fill work larger than this...for which it works very well.

Historically accurate period racing cars are among my favorite modeling subjects, and yours are certainly among the best. Your research and choice of components that let your models reflect the subtle differences between some of these cars is always appreciated and informative, and watching your cars come together is a real treat. I had the opportunity many years back to work on and drive a real 289 FIA car, and to this day, it ranks as one of the scariest things I've ever been behind the wheel of...in a good way.

I think the current management needs our thanks and appreciation for what they've already done...which only has meaning if people actually BUY their kits. Attaboys don't keep anyone in business. PRIOR management style was mostly to DE-content kits and raise prices. Only the current management has made the effort to return missing parts to old favorites, and to allow 3-n-1 kits to again be offered (that had previously been stripped of optional content).